The internet has changed the process of writing architectural history beyond all recognition. Information that just twenty years ago would have required lengthy and arduous research to track down can now be obtained with a few clicks. The amount of material which has been digitalised and placed within the public domain is truly staggering. It is now possible to produce a reasonably authoritative, well illustrated account of the life and work of a Victorian architect through desktop research alone. In many ways, this blog is a testimony to that, since numerous posts were written during the second and third COVID lockdowns in the United Kingdom, when all libraries and archives were closed to the public and opportunities to visit historic sites severely restricted. All the same, sooner or later one discovers gaps in one’s knowledge that cannot be filled so easily – and not through archival or field research, either. The great merit of the blog format, especially when used in conjunction with social media, is not just that it makes it easier to share the fruits of one’s research than ever before, but that it greatly expands one’s ability to elicit information.
Portrait of John Croft (1800-1885), possibly by his daughter, Marian.
For that reason, when I started ‘Less Eminent Victorians’, I hoped that it might flush out information that had yet to come to the attention of scholars. Late last year it did just that – and to a degree that exceeded my wildest expectations. My second post for the blog dealt with John Croft, whose extravagantly original St John the Baptist at Lower Shuckburgh in southeast Warwickshire has long been a destination for churchcrawlers. Yet other than a church at Cold Hanworth in Lincolnshire, nothing in a very meagre works list came anywhere near to it in architectural interest, leading me to wonder whether both buildings might be no more than a flash in the pan. I had no reason to reconsider my view until I was contacted through the blog back in November 2021 by a Laura Amalir, who introduced herself with the words, ‘I have just chanced upon the article about the architect John Croft. He was my great-great grandfather and we have quite a bit of archive material that may be of interest, not to mention a great many paintings by his son, Arthur’. This intrigued me straight away and we began corresponding.
Emma Croft, wife of the architect – ivory portrait bust by John Croft
John Croft in his studio, sketch by an unknown family member entitled simply ‘Grandpapa at work’.
To cut a long story short, in February the opportunity finally arose to inspect this material for myself and what I saw so impressed me that it deserves to be published here – not only for the light that it sheds on what I already knew of Croft’s life and work, but also for its huge intrinsic value. It needs to be said right away that the quantity of papers, drawings and paintings is very substantial: simply cataloguing them all would be a major task, and a proper scholarly analysis would suffice for a Master’s thesis at the very least. Laura could not have been more accommodating, but the few hours that I was able to spend looking at the family archive was insufficient to do more than get a sense of what awaits proper investigation. What follows is intended to convey that – and also to afford readers the same pleasure and delight that I derived from sampling Croft’s rich, colourful and highly imaginative visual world.
Sketch from the southwest of All Saints, Cold Hanworth in Lincolnshire
Biographical discoveries
I entitled my first post ‘John Croft: the most mysterious rogue of all?’ because of the dearth of biographical information about its subject. Thanks to the formidable research skills of Peter C.W. Taylor – a good friend of Less Eminent Victorians – I was at least able to supplement some of the basic data that has eluded previous commentators, but the Croft papers go far beyond this in fleshing out a portrait of someone who was hitherto a very shadowy figure. A document among the papers compiled by a family member long after Croft’s death states that he was born on 19th April 1800 (corroborated by what Peter had deduced from the census data) and died on 14th March 1885. He was buried in Paddington Cemetery. And, excitingly, we can put not only definite dates of birth and death but also, at long last, a face to the name, since the family archive includes two watercolour portraits of Croft in later life. They are unsigned, but it is a reasonable guess that they were executed by his daughter Marian, who was reputedly a skilled miniaturist.
Interior of Westminster Abbey looking west from the sanctuary
The south transept of Rouen Cathedral
But perhaps the biggest revelation is that Croft’s professional career began in a very different and wholly unexpected field. He initially trained not as an architect, but as an ivory carver and attained some accomplishment, showing pieces at the Royal Academy in 1829 and 1830, and produced a medallion with a profile portrait of George IV forming the lid of a snuff box now held by the Victoria and Albert Museum, in whose catalogue it is unattributed. The family archive includes what seems to be a photographic reproduction of a self-portrait in the form of a similar medallion, as well as two portrait busts of his wife, Emma. According to Laura Amalir, his granddaughter (who was her great aunt) claimed that he abandoned ivory carving after breaking his wrist, which one surmises happened at some point in the 1840s. Peter’s discovery that Croft acted as clerk of works for the construction of the Warwick County Lunatic Asylum, completed in 1850 (confirmed by a number of documents relating to this project, such as estimates from sub-contractors all inscribed ‘For Mr Croft’), suggests that architecture may have been a second career and not one that he had been pursuing in tandem. Perhaps significantly, it was around this time that Croft became a freemason, joining the Lodge of Unity in Warwick, and the family archive includes his apron. Yet whatever more detailed research may or may not reveal, it is clear that architecture – and predominantly the heritage of the European Middle Ages – was an enduring passion, as demonstrated by the large number of pencil and watercolour views by Croft of Gothic buildings in the family archive.
Oriental capriccio
Croft the architectural illustrator
They are all executed to a high standard and, though decidedly Romantic in spirit – interior views predominate, and he revels in dramatic effects of light and shade – are by no means impressionistic. They evidence profound understanding of the architecture depicted, and the pencil underdrawing demonstrates that the perspective and ornament were all carefully worked out before the wash was applied. Westminster Abbey seems to have held a particular fascination for Croft and there are numerous views of the interior, including even one featuring a pulpit of his own design, inscribed on the reverse ‘From the pulpit loud proclaim / Salvation in Christ Jesu’s name’. Given Croft’s Warwickshire connections, one is not surprised to find views of the great medieval town church of Holy Trinity in Coventry. But the subjects are not exclusively ancient and the archive includes a number of illustrations of buildings completed in Croft’s own lifetime – the Palace of Westminster and, less expectedly, the interior of G.E. Street’s St Saviour’s in Eastbourne, completed in 1867. Nor are they exclusively domestic, and there are exterior views of Rouen Cathedral in Normandy, St Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna, even the Red Fort in Delhi.
Presentation drawing of the west end of the nave and baptistery of All Saints, Cold Hanworth in Lincolnshire, c. 1864
Croft’s ticket for the 1864 Architectural Exhibition, at which the view of Cold Hanworth reproduced above was shown.
But to surmise from this that Croft had undertaken some sort of grand tour throughout Europe and perhaps even further afield along the lines of S.S. Teulon’s great expedition of 1841-1842 may be to jump to conclusions. The archive also includes an extensive collection of published engravings of famous works of architecture and Croft’s views may be based exclusively on these rather than field research. Tellingly, for example, the views of Rouen Cathedral show it still with the central spire destroyed by lightning in 1822. The purpose of the drawings is difficult to ascertain. According to Algernon Grave’s dictionary, Croft exhibited nothing at the Royal Academy after showing the two ivories. Evidently he was interested in the work of his peers, since the papers include three tickets to exhibitions, two of them Architectural Exhibitions from 1864 and 1869. But the only mention of Croft’s work discovered so far in literature of the time relates to a view of the interior of All Saints, Cold Hanworth in Lincolnshire, described briefly in a review of the 1864 Architectural Exhibition published in The Builder’s issue for 9th April of that year (there is no mention of him in that publication’s review of the 1869 show). If Croft had enough interest in promoting his architectural work to show views of it to a London audience, then why is his output not more extensive? If, instead, his interest lay in promoting himself as an architectural illustrator, then why did so many views executed to the standard of presentation drawings (in which he was reputedly helped by Arthur) and manifestly of saleable quality remain among his own effects? Or are these in fact exclusively the fruits of his leisure?
Built works and new discoveries
The interior of St John the Baptist, Upper Shuckburgh, Warwickshire, showing it more or less as left by Croft after the restoration of 1849-1855.
For the moment, one can do no more than speculate, but though the papers shed important light on Croft’s architectural career, much about it remains enigmatic. They do not much much expand the catalogue of known works and these, all told, do not equate to the sort of output that might have sustained a man with a large family over the course of a long life, even allowing for his late entry to the architectural profession. But, thanks to a couple of important finds among the papers, we do at least now know approximately when this happened. Material in the family archive allows Croft to be identified as the author of the comprehensive remodelling of St John the Baptist in Upper Shuckburgh, carried out in 1849-1855 according to Chris Pickford’s revision of the Warwickshire volume of The Buildings of England, published in 2016. The sources consulted for that edition recorded the name of the builder, the stonemason and the glazier but not, surprisingly, the architect. There are two highly finished presentation drawings of the church, depicting a general view of the interior looking east and differing essentially only in the treatment of the detailing of the double-hammerbeam roof.
Design for the pulpit at St John the Baptist, Upper Shuckburgh
View from the southwest of Birdingbury Hall, Warwickshire: this is an ‘E’-plan house and the main entrance is on the opposite side of the longer of the two wings visible here, within the courtyard that they enclose.
Neither view is captioned and identification of the subject confounded the author until he was able to corroborate a hunch, thanks to a photograph provided by the Rev’d Gillian Roberts, priest-in-charge of the benefice that includes the church. St John’s is a ‘peculiar’, outside the jurisdiction of the diocese, and effectively a private estate chapel (it stands in the grounds of Shuckburgh Hall) where services can only be held at the invitation of the Lord of the Manor. Corroboration of Croft’s authorship is given by a pencil and wash illustration of the pulpit, discovered among the papers, which is captioned in the architect’s own hand. The work at Upper Shuckburgh gives the impression of having sprung from the head of an antiquarian with a slightly overheated imagination, but there is much about the adventurous handling of form of the pulpit and prodigious invention in the detailing of the roof that foreshadows what he went on to do at Lower Shuckburgh. If Croft was indeed involved with this project from the outset, that would suggest that he had established himself in independent practice before the County Asylum was finished.
West elevation to Old School Lane of the now former national school at Hampton on the Hill, WarwickshireGround plan of Hampton on the Hill school
Then there are three presentation drawings – all taken from the same southwestern viewpoint – of Birdingbury Hall, an originally early 17th century country house located in a small village about equidistant from Leamington Spa and Rugby. The building was damaged by a serious fire in 1859, which evidently necessitated major building work. Chris Pickford’s revision of Warwickshire does not identify the architect, but notes that the house was originally built by the Shuckburgh family, whose influence in the area perhaps accounts for the commission, and Croft is recorded as having been involved in remodelling the entrance hall of Shuckburgh Hall at the same date. Exactly what was done at Birdingbury and why Croft should have gone to the trouble of producing three versions of the design (they differ only in fine detail) awaits discovery through study of material in the family papers and close inspection of the surviving fabric. There is some mildly quirky detailing visible in the drawings, but nothing as strongly personal as the ecclesiastical work. St John the Baptist in Lower Shuckburgh is represented in the family archives by a handsome presentation view in pencil and wash of the chancel and a rather winsome watercolour sketch in pastel tones of the exterior, showing it in evening light and playing up as far as they will go the picturesque qualities of the building. There is a third view of the nave looking west, evidently intended to be a presentation drawing, which has got no further than the pencil underdrawing.
South elevation of Hampton on the Hill school, showing the master’s house and privySt Laurence’s, Seale in Surrey – early design for the restoration, which omits the south transept, not added until 1871, and shows the tower before it was heightened in 1873.
Two more Warwickshire commissions have been identified thanks to the family archive. It includes a full set of contract drawings for what was presumably the national school at Hampton-on-the-Hill, a small village located just to the west of the county town. They are all signed ‘John Croft Architect Warwick’ and, though they bear no date in his hand, one of the elevation drawings shows that ‘1854’ was to be laid in brick beneath the sills of the bay window of the schoolroom as part of a scheme of polychromatic brick patterning. In configuration, with the large block of the schoolroom offset by the more intricate massing of the schoolmaster’s house and its decidedly ecclesiastical overtones, it is a typical village school of the period. But whereas those were usually high-minded essays in earnest Puginian Middle-Pointed Gothic (see, for instance, the school at Foxearth featured in my post on Joseph Clarke), this design is self-consciously picturesque, more in the manner of the pre-Ecclesiological Goths and with features such as the decorative leadwork that are squarely in the cottage orné tradition. It has something about it of the contemporary schools in south London by Joseph Peacock, such as St John’s National Schools in Deptford, featured in my post on that architect. The school was built, but apparently in simplified form and, though still extant as a residential conversion, has been badly mutilated.
Design for a memorial to Colonel Cracroft at All Saints, Cold Hanworth, Lincolnshire
Sketch from south east of the exterior of St John the Baptist, Lower Shuckburgh, Warwickshire
Material relating to known executed commissions outside Warwickshire among the papers includes a glut of views of St Laurence’s, Seale in Surrey – two of the interior (one very rough, the other depicting more or less what was built) and alternative versions of the exterior. These are conveyed by several drawings, which show how the central tower was raised in height, with a termination that starts off as a pyramidal roof with acutely pointed dormers, then turns into a typical Surrey splay-footed spire, and ends up as a pyramidal roof again – the form in which it appears today. There are three views of All Saints in Cold Hanworth, Lincolnshire. The one depicting the west end of the nave and baptistery is clearly that described in the report in The Builder of 9th April 1864 mentioned above, and is valuable for showing the full effect of the internal constructional polychromy, otherwise recorded only in black and white photographs of the building also discovered in the family papers. A second presentation drawing depicts an aedicule described on the reverse as ‘A design for a memorial to Col. Cracroft’, in whose memory the church was erected, and seems to have been intended for one of the openings on the north side of the chancel. As far as can be ascertained, it was not executed, and the Colonel was instead commemorated by an inscription on the wall. The third drawing is a watercolour sketch of the exterior, similar in character to that of St John’s in Upper Shuckburgh mentioned above.
Presentation drawing of the interior of the chancel at St John the Baptist, Lower Shuckburgh, Warwickshire
Unexecuted designs for religious buildings
The material described above exhausts what can be positively identified as relating to Croft’s known work. It does not, however, exhaust the contents of the archives, for there is a large number of drawings and sketches depicting buildings with sufficient seriousness of intent to lead one to suppose that the architect cherished some hope that they might be executed – or, at any rate, executable. They are significant for what they reveal about the breadth of Croft’s interests and diversity of his architectural personality. Not surprisingly, ecclesiastical designs feature prominently. Lower Shuckburgh and Cold Hanworth whet the appetite for the sort of architecture that Croft might have produced when unconstrained by budgetary requirements or technical limitations, and in that respect the collection does not disappoint.
Design for an urban or suburban parish church
Pencil sketch designs for churches
There is a spectacular design for what appears to be an urban or suburban parish church, clearly intended to seat several hundred worshippers. The plan form – cruciform, with a northwest tower and spire – is conventional enough. But how Croft elaborates that is a different matter altogether. The tracery is nominally curvilinear Decorated, but of quite fantastical form. That of the west window continues down to ground level to embrace a triple porch (disproportionately small compared to its counterpart on the north). The roof is pulled down low, so that the lateral windows rise into transverse gables, augmenting the effect of an already busy roofline, which bristles with pinnacles. The tower is a tour de force of sculptural invention, rising to a slender openwork spire and braced with corner flying buttresses – an arrangement similar enough to Roumieu and Gough’s St Peter’s, Davona Road in Islington to make one wonder if Croft had seen it (in later life he lived in the area, after all). Over the crossing is a intricate corona of filigree wrought iron.
Design for a (?)Catholic churchDesign for a church with an octagonal crossing, first version
Some of the devices tried here can be found in a design for a church depicted in a picturesque sylvan setting. At first sight it appears almost megalomaniacal, but when one begins to compute the height in relation to the doorway, one sees that it is monumental in its conception rather than the scale, which turns out to be almost toylike. Again, there is a busy roofline with pinnacles, transverse gables and two lanterns straddling the ridgeline, which are square at the base, but rise to a dome-like form. The slender spire is pierced with quatrefoil wind holes, a feature commonly encountered in medieval Breton architecture. There are short transepts, and an apse with flying buttresses is suggested. There is a good deal of exterior sculpture, hinting that this may be a Catholic church. The two-storey elevations suggest side chapels at ground level, but, read in conjunction with the longitudinal plan and axial west tower, also bring to mind early 19th century Anglican auditory churches, and indeed the whole design is fundamentally Georgian Gothick in spirit.
Design for a church with an octagonal crossing, second version with masonry vaulting
Design for a (?)nonconformist chapel
One deduces from a number of drawings in the collection that Croft was preoccupied with centrally-planned, top-lit polygonal spaces. Some, as will be discussed below, are pure fantasy, but two of the most memorable interior designs show an intriguing attempt to synthesise this with the longitudinal configuration of a cruciform basilica, perhaps inspired by Ely Cathedral. In one version, the side aisles of the nave are little more than passage aisles, which it is suggested are articulated externally with transverse gables. The aisles are divided off at ground level with traceried screens. A huge octagonal space to the east extends into them. This is effectively the chancel, since the apsidal sanctuary beyond is only one-bay deep. Note the detached columns at the angles of the octagon supporting the immense trusses, which rise to a central lantern. In the second version, the nave is treated like a Germanic hall church and the space is vaulted throughout. The treatment of the web of the vault suggests that this was intended to be constructed of ceramic pots like that at Lower Shuckburgh. In this version of the scheme, the vaulting and, hence, the spaces that it encloses, are much more tightly integrated and the whole is shown to be enclosed within a simple quadrilateral ground plan. The octagonal space rises to a drum glazed with stained glass instead of a lantern.
Design for a church with a saddleback tower
Designs for pulpits
Not all the designs are quite so ambitious, nor are they all Gothic. There are a couple of tiny, but very deft concept sketches in pencil for churches with steeply pitched roofs and tall spires, the work of an architect who begins by thinking about the effects of light and shade that a building produces and how it appears from a distance in the landscape. There is a relatively sober scheme for an auditory church, perhaps for a nonconformist denomination, handled with aplomb in a Rundbogenstil manner. Only the placing of the Venetian-looking bell turret, perched on one of the corners like an afterthought, does not quite convince. There are fragments of a scheme for a church with a saddleback tower in a sort of Transitional Romanesque manner, evidently intended to be built of brick with stone dressings.
Design for cemetery chapelsInterior of a Catholic cemetery chapel
Croft could turn his hand to classicism, but only in one instance does he apply it to a sacred work – an arresting scheme for what is described on the reverse as a cemetery chapel. It follows the typical Victorian configuration of a central bell tower – really Italianate rather than classical – flanked by identical mortuary chapels, which one would expect to be for Nonconformists and Anglicans. These are satisfyingly compact domed forms, though the frothy ornament rather detracts from the tightness of the composition. Among the papers there is also a sketch described on the reverse in Croft’s hand as a ‘Roman [sic] cemetery chapel’ – a centrally-planned, domed space, abounding in rich colour and ornament, although looking more like a sculpture gallery with no obvious indicators of its religious function. Was the cemetery chapel scheme in fact intended to cater to Catholics rather than Nonconformists? At a push, it could just about be the interior of one of the domed volumes. A page of designs for pulpits in a strident High Victorian vein should also be mentioned. Comparison with the executed design for the pulpit at Upper Shuckburgh shows that these spring from the realm of the – theoretically – executable, but whether they are in fact more than sophisticated doodles is for now an open question.
Unexecuted designs for secular buildings
Design for a gentleman’s house
Though Croft handled secular commissions, nothing among them has yet been identified that could vie with, say, All Saints in Cold Hanworth as a comprehensive and characteristic statement of his architectural language. The vicarage at Lower Shuckburgh is a disappointment after the expectations raised by the church. And yet it is clear from an extensive series of drawings among the Croft papers that he was every bit as capable of exploiting domestic design as a vehicle for his prodigious imagination. For the most part these are sketch designs for large villas, usually described on the reverse as ‘a gentleman’s house’. The quality of the draughtsmanship varies from highly finished pen and wash presentation drawings to watercolour sketches. Nothing is currently known about the circumstances in which they appeared and whether any of them was executed, or at least stood any real chance of execution. The imposing scale and elaborate nature of the designs suggest that Croft had his eye on one-off commissions for wealthy clients as opposed to, say, grander suburban residential developments, but that must remain speculation for now.
Design for a gentleman’s houseDesign for a gentleman’s house
Although there are distinctly Gothicising overtones in the asymmetrical compositions and vivid skylines, notably not one of them is Gothic. Instead, the style is a very busy, mannered and heavily ornamental Italianate. Some of the elevations are organised symmetrically, but Croft always does his best to throw them off balance with features such as prominent towers (sometimes housing a staircase), oriels, first-floor winter gardens, large bay windows and conservatories. The rooflines are always busy and expressive, with turrets, dormers, pavilion roofs, tall chimneys and decorative ironwork. The modelling of the forms is restless, with numerous advancing and receding planes, and the effect of breaking up the wall surface is accentuated by elongated, narrow and repetitious fenestration, sometimes organised as arcades with alternating blind and glazed openings. This gives these designs an affinity with Robert Lewis Roumieu’s Italianate villas of the late 1840s/early 1850s discussed in the post on that architect. Colour is all-important and the sketches suggest various different types of exterior polychromy – constructional in brick, perhaps sgraffito, perhaps painted, column shafts in polished red granite, stucco. Croft plays to his forte by exploiting the designs in a similar manner to his churches as discrete sculptural forms, abounding in picturesque accretions to maximise their visual appeal and form an eye-catcher in the landscape.
Design for a gentleman’s houseDesign for a gentleman’s house
But there is also a smattering of other building types. One sketch depicts a lodge house in an Italianate style, apparently octagonal in plan and adjoined by sumptuous wrought iron gates to a driveway. Other than the drawings for Birdingbury Hall, it is the only item in the collection testifying to Croft’s interest in country house work. There are also highly finished presentation drawings for commercial buildings in a florid Second Empire style. One is a perspective view of a block that seems to be intended to form part of a quadrant, with lavish shopfronts faced in marble and incorporating arcades at ground-floor level and residential storeys above incorporating statuary. It looks as though it might have been intended to replace part of Nash’s Oxford Circus.
Design for a mixed-use building in an urban locationDesign for a sideboard, possibly by Adolphus Croft
There are two elevation drawings – alternative offers for the same commission? – of a large, five-storey block that looks like it was intended for an inner-urban site engaged on both sides. There are no obvious clues to its function. Could it have been a department store? Or the headquarters for a large company? Something also needs to be said briefly about the drawings for furniture and various pieces of interior design – armchairs, tables, desks, fireplaces, cabinets and overmantels. Stylistically, they are varied, from overtly High Victorian to Louis-Quinze. The draughtsmanship is very different, they have been mounted in albums to make them easier to peruse, and they look less like the product of John Croft’s visionary imagination and more like that of someone with commercial nous – perhaps his architect son, Adolphus (1831-1893).
Design for a lodge house and gates to a drive
Capriccios
Oriental capriccio
There can, however, be no doubt at all over the authorship of the gorgeous series of capriccios that form the highlight of the collection. They are almost exclusively interior views, none is large, yet they all glow with jewel-like colours and have been executed with real finesse. Everything suggests that Croft took particular delight in them and that they were produced for his own enjoyment. They can be divided broadly into three groups – Classical, Gothic and Orientalising. The classical scenes resemble nothing so much as elaborate stage sets and indeed are framed by what look like proscenium arches with curtains and valences. The Gothic scenes are pure expressionism, populated with people striking devotional attitudes, furnished with altars and benches and adorned with statuary. The treatment of the architectural forms is highly inventive to the point of foreshadowing 20th century stylisation of Gothic, incorporating original devices such as stained glass panels in a vault. No view can easily be conceived of as part of a larger whole, and again, they are quite theatrical in spirit. The orientalising capriccios could be subdivided into depictions of perhaps Moorish, perhaps Mughal scenes, and a chronologically even more distant past, which, given Croft’s interest in sacred art, one is tempted to interpret as backdrops to the Babylonian Exile or Slavery in Egypt.
Classical capriccioGothic capriccio
Yet even if they were produced for his private amusement, these capriccios embody real architectural concerns. The preoccupation with large, central polygonal spaces has been mentioned above in relation to a design concept for a church interior; this emerges on repeated occasions in a group of orientalising fantasies depicting odalisques in spaces lit from above by a clerestory supported on an octagonal arcade. For all the exotic colour, the ultimate inspiration is from closer to home and must derive from the configuration of a Templars’ Church. The traceried windows of the interior reproduced at the top of this page look to have been cribbed from the Bishop’s Eye in the south transept at Lincoln Cathedral rather than anything east of the Mediterranean. The exaggerated cusping relates directly to Croft’s executed church designs, while the vault of an interior which rises to a central lantern looks to have been derived from the former monks’ kitchen at Durham Cathedral. The manner in which this is supported on intersecting ribs gives it a kinship with the second of the schemes for a church with a large domed space. Less easy to relate to any known examples in Croft’s output (although there are shades of the painter John Martin and architect Alexander Thomson) is a strikingly original interior where the same idea is resolved in trabeated forms supported on Egyptian-looking columns with lotus-leaf capitals. The surrounding spaces appear to be based on a repeated hexagonal module.
Oriental capriccio
Conclusion
To reiterate one of my opening comments, what is reproduced here represents only a fraction of the material in the Croft papers. I have concentrated on original architectural designs, but the contents go far beyond these. The topographical views alone or else the capriccios would suffice for a lengthy blog post, and that is to say nothing of the large volume of papers including correspondence with clients, specifications, bills from suppliers (there is one dated 21st March 1864 from Clayton and Bell for the east window at Cold Hanworth), estimates from contractors and so on relating to executed works. It would be a rewarding but daunting task to examine these in detail and to correlate them with whatever turns out to have been deposited in public archives, as well as with detailed examination of what survives on the ground. Attempts to arrange access to the hall and church at Upper Shuckburgh have so far been fruitless. In the case of Birdingbury Hall and All Saints, Cold Hanworth – both private houses – they may prove impossible.
Gothic capriccioDesign for a gentleman’s house
Though I believe that a scholarly account of Croft’s life and analysis of his work is essential for establishing his place in Victorian architecture, it is possible that it will not do much more than elaborate on the information already collated about his known output. There may be unidentified works by him still awaiting attribution, but my hunch is that these are unlikely to be anything substantial – perhaps the odd estate cottage, or minor alterations to a country house. It is unlikely that any textbooks on Victorian architecture will need to be rewritten. In my first post on Croft, I wondered whether there were lost masterpieces and unexecuted works (by which I meant things like competition entries or projects curtailed by circumstances) awaiting discovery. I now see that the answer to those questions has to be ‘no’: he entered the architectural profession relatively late and nothing about the papers suggests that he had a large practice or actively sought commissions. Perhaps, like Peacock – another architect with an intriguing but slender output – Croft’s main line of business was in fact surveying rather than designing; the Shuckburgh family’s landholdings might well have justified retaining him in such a capacity.
Oriental capriccio
Scheme for St Laurence’s in Seale, showing the tower as originally built in 1861 and with a spire instead of a pyramidal roof. Note the grave board to the lower right – a traditional Surrey feature.
But whereas the details of Peacock’s life turned out to be scant and infuriatingly uninformative where influences on his professional formation and aesthetic preferences were concerned, as an artistic personality Croft is an entire world of his own. When I wrote the first blog post, I wondered whether the churches at Lower Shuckburgh and Cold Hanworth might be the only two highlights of an otherwise unremarkable career. Was there any information about Croft waiting to be discovered other than scant biographical data? Would he emerge from a study of it as a naïve artist whose success was more accident than design, or as a fully rounded designer? Even if it does not much expand the catalogue of known works, the family archive reveals Croft’s architectural imagination to have been richer and far more powerful that I could ever have anticipated. It must now be beyond any doubt that, whatever influence Sir George Shuckburgh might have exercised on the circumstances of the commission for the church at Lower Shuckburgh, the original character of the architecture sprang from Croft’s head alone. It is patently not the work of someone whose imagination was animated by someone better travelled and learned than he, and the purported influence of what Shuckburgh had seen in the Crimea must now be dismissed as spurious.
Design for a (?)commercial buildingInterior of Henry VII’s chapel at Westminster Abbey
In his omnivorous delight in assimilating influences from the most diverse sources, of all the other architects featured on this blog, Croft most closely resembles Teulon, specifically the Teulon of St Mark’s, Silvertown with its fantastical Mudéjar overtones. But Teulon draws widely on outside influences to solve the practical and aesthetic problems with which he was confronted in his practice – to establish an archaeological precedent for a modern Protestant auditory church, to find a way of achieving maximum visual interest on a tight budget, to beautify Georgian fabric in a manner that works with rather than against the raw material, to broaden the expressive range of an historicising style and so on. In the case of Croft, these influences nourish a powerful, fertile but largely private imagination, which seems not to have depended on opportunities to embody itself in brick and stone to subsist and flourish. If, while working on the Warwick County Lunatic Asylum, he received any kind of training from Frederick John Francis, there is no sign of his having been influenced by that architect’s comparatively staid work. Lower Shuckburgh and Cold Hanworth are artist’s architecture, the fruit of a design process which proceeds from an overriding concern for picturesque, decorative and emotional effects. A desire for strongly individual expression takes precedence over established canons of taste. For all these reasons, Croft qualifies as a genuine architectural outsider.
Oriental capriccio
Gothic capriccio
As far as I know, no other architectural historian has ever looked at the Croft papers. Indeed, Laura Amalir told me that they had been viewed by several generations of the family as little more than a curio – had even been regarded with some embarrassment during the long period in the mid-20th century when High Victorian art and architecture were deeply unfashionable. It is a pleasure finally to be able to restore them to prominence and to share them with a wider audience.
It is inevitable that A.W.N. Pugin looms large in histories of Roman Catholic church-building in the 19th century. Yet in some ways he was as notable for the adopting the faith that he served through his architecture as he was for the buildings that he designed. Would Pugin be viewed in quite the same way by architectural historians had he been Anglican? He claimed not merely to be reviving the forms of the Middle Ages, but the entire theological, aesthetic, philosophical and ethical outlook that they implied.
The interior of A.W.N. Pugin’s church of St Giles in Cheadle, Staffordshire (1840-1846): ‘Cheadle perfect Cheadle, my consolation in all afflictions’ wrote Pugin to the Earl of Shrewsbury, thanks to whose generosity the architect had been able here to attain his ideal in its richest, most sumptuous form.
Yet the Catholic church which Pugin burst in on when he converted in June 1835 was a very different institution to that which animated his vision. The Catholic Relief Act of 1791 restored the freedom of worship lost following the Reformation, but its spirit was to enjoin Catholics to keep a low profile, and this extended to the architectural treatment of places of worship, which were not to have a steeple or bells. Many of the churches built during this period closely resembled externally the contemporary chapels and meeting houses of Protestant nonconformist denominations. Stylistically, they were characterised by the plurality characteristic of the period. The growing influence of the fashion for Gothic was not ignored, but nor was it accorded hegemony. Major architectural statements were just as likely to be Greek Revival, Neo-Classical or Italianate. It was not full Catholic emancipation in 1829 which changed this; it was Pugin. But then there is no fervency quite like that of a neophyte.
One of the most ambitious architectural ventures to be embarked upon by English Catholics in the years immediately following Emancipation was the Pro-Cathedral of the Holy Apostles in the Bristol suburb of Clifton, for which H.E. Goodridge (1797-1864) produced the neo-classical design illustrated here. The T-shaped plan form seems to have been based on early Christian basilicas, with transepts but just a shallow apse. The crossing may have been intended to be lit from above by the tempietto. Work started in 1834 but was abandoned in c. 1840, when the walls had risen to around two thirds of their height, because of insurmountable problems with subsidence on this awkward sloping site, which rendered the footings unable to bear the weight of a large masonry structure. In 1846-1848, C.F. Hansom designed a wooden superstructure, arcades and roof to allow the incomplete church to be brought into use, and in 1876 he produced a design for a west front, narthex and bell tower, illustrated below. The building was abandoned in 1973 after a new cathedral was completed and eventually turned into residential accommodation.The Cathedral of St Chad in Birmingham (1839-1841), where Pugin employed German Brick Gothic of the Baltic Coast in response to the challenge posed by adapting the forms of the Middle Ages to an industrial setting in a Midlands city.
Though the influence of Pugin would be felt until well into the 20th century, in some ways it did Catholicism a disservice. Its effect on the Church of England was so enormous that, architecturally speaking, the two denominations were left marching in uneasy lockstep. When, after what proved to be a false start, Catholics were ready to make major architectural statements in the capital, they did so in a manner that consciously avoided any invidious comparisons with Anglican church-building. Though they were diverse, none was Gothic. Herbert Gribble’s design of 1878 for the Brompton Oratory was an evocative recreation of an Italian early Baroque domed basilica, while J.F. Bentley’s Westminster Cathedral represented nothing less than an attempt to synthesise a contemporary architectural style from historicising sources. When stylistic plurality re-entered church-building in the late 19th century, Catholics embraced it as enthusiastically as any other denomination. Eventually they largely abandoned historicism when the liturgical reforms of the Second Vatican Council accelerated their Church’s progress towards modernism.
The Drummond Chapel of 1839 at the old church of St Peter and Paul, Albury in Surrey: though it is one of Pugin’s few Anglican commissions, the aesthetic is consistent with his Catholic work and it makes a telling comparison with the Weld Mortuary chapel for the architectural treatment of a private burial place, in this instance for a banking dynasty.The interior of the Church of St Edmund in Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk: a private chapel on the site was licensed for public worship in 1791, the year of the Catholic Relief Act, and in 1837 was superseded by a large new Greek Revival building by Charles Day of Worcester. The top-lit interior with box pews and no structurally defined chancel and sanctuary is about as far from Pugin’s precepts as could possibly be. But for all that he deplored them, such thoroughgoing classical churches were typical of the practice of the early post-Emancipation Roman Catholic Church in England. (Simon Knott)
In short, the history of Catholic church-building in Victorian Britain is about a great deal more than the rise and fall of Gothic. There is an important ‘other tradition’ – to borrow a phrase coined by Colin St John Wilson to describe the work of 20th century architects who refused to subscribe to a narrow, doctrinaire vision of modernism – and few buildings embody it quite so intriguingly as those which form the subject of this post. They constitute part of the remarkable record of church-building by the Weld family, which extends from the period just before the end of the penal times to the 1960s. It is, moreover, a history intimately bound up with people and place.
St Raphael’s Church on the banks of the Thames in Surbiton was built in 1847 as a private chapel for Alexander Raphael, owner of Surbiton Park, who was also MP for St Albans and the first Catholic since the Reformation to be Sheriff of London. The architect was Charles Parker (1799-1881), a pupil of Sir Jeffry Wyatville, who published Villa rustica (1832; 2nd edition, 1848), an extensively illustrated survey of country villas in the vicinity of Rome and Florence, which was influential in promoting Italianate domestic architecture. The ecclesiastical version of this style, which was dubbed Lombardic, was often used later on in the 19th century for remodellings of Stuart and Georgian Anglican buildings to render them more suitable as a setting for ritualistic worship, but a completely new church in the style was unusual. (Andrew Wood)
Chideock – the castle and the martyrs
Chideock (pronounced ‘Chiddick’) is a village in southwest Dorset located just east of Bridport and about a mile inland from the coast. In the late 14th century John De Chideock, who at that point held the manor, fortified his dwelling and created what was apparently a substantial house. Around 100 years later, the property was acquired – apparently through marriage – by the Lanherne branch of the Arundells, a prominent Cornish gentry family. As devout Catholics, the Arundells found the Henrician Reformation unacceptable and maintained their adherence to what they saw as the only true faith. Their social standing and wealth initially offered some defence against official persecution, but in the circumstances confrontation was inevitable and things came to a head during the lifetime of Sir John Arundell (before 1527-1590). Despite benefiting from a number of emoluments, he refused to accept the Elizabethan settlement and actively supported the underground Catholic church. St Cuthbert Mayne, the first of the Catholic seminary priests – that is, clergy who had been trained on the Continent and were sent as missionaries to England – praised Sir John in his final address from the gallows when he was executed in 1577.
Portraits of English martyrs, including St Cuthbert Mayne (second from left) and Fr Hugh Green (furthest to the right) in the Weld mortuary chapel at Chideock
Around this time, Arundell seems to have put Chideock Castle at the disposal of seminary priests arriving at the nearby port of Lyme Regis, and it became an important local centre of Catholic worship and ministry. Such activity was brutally repressed and between 1587 and 1642 three seminary priests and four laymen – three of them members of the household and one a local resident who had converted to the faith – were arrested, imprisoned and then put to death at Dorchester. As the seat of a family that was not only recusant but also staunchly royalist in its sympathies, Chideock Castle was an obvious target during the Civil War and in 1645 Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary General, ordered it to be slighted. The destruction was not total, but it achieved the aim of flushing out the Catholic priests, who were forced to decamp to a nearby farmhouse known as Dame Hallett’s, where they turned the loft of the attached barn into a centre of clandestine worship.
The ruins of Chideock Castle as recorded by Samuel & Nathaniel Buck in 1733
The Welds and Chideock
The Weld family came originally from Cheshire and, like the Arundells, was recusant. In 1641, it acquired Lulworth Castle in east Dorset. This is a remarkable building put up during the first decade of the 17th century by Thomas Howard, 3rd Viscount Howard of Bindon, and is representative of a fashion for medievalising sham fortified castles which enjoyed some popularity during the reign of James I. Thomas Weld (1750-1810) was born at Lulworth and educated at the Jesuit-run college for English Catholics at Saint-Omer in the northern French province of Artois. This was a necessity at a time when English Catholics were effectively barred from studying at Oxford or Cambridge, which required adherence to the Thirty Nine Articles of Faith of the Church of England. During the course of Weld’s studies, the Jesuits were expelled from France and the college moved to Bruges in what was then the Spanish Netherlands. In 1775, Thomas succeeded his elder brother Edward (1741-1775) as heir to the family estates, which had been augmented since the purchase of Lulworth – in part through advantageous marriages and inheritances – and now numbered five, including Stonyhurst and Shireburn in Lancashire.
The exterior of the chapel of St Mary at Lulworth Castle by John Tasker of 1786-1787 (Denis Cameron)
Five years later, Thomas Weld embarked on a major building campaign at his seat when he commissioned John Tasker (c. 1738-1816) to remodel the interior of Lulworth Castle. The work was completed in 1782, but does not survive, having been destroyed when the Castle was gutted by fire in 1929. Tasker was a practising Catholic, who worked mainly for clients drawn from the recusant gentry and aristocracy, such as Weld. He also founded a dynasty of architects who found much work during the great building campaigns that followed Emancipation, notably his grandson, Francis William Tasker (1848-1904). Weld then commissioned Tasker to design a Catholic chapel, construction of which commenced in 1786 on a site in the grounds and was completed the following year. This was to be the first new Catholic place of worship (not counting private house chapels) to be built in England since the Reformation – a bold, potentially even a risky move. Though the penal laws were no longer as brutally enforced as had been the case in the preceding two centuries, anti-Catholic sentiment had been strong enough to bring about the Gordon Riots six years earlier. A provision in the Papists Act of 1778 which allowed Catholics to join the army (though it did not grant freedom of worship) was used to whip up paranoia about fifth columnists acting in the interests of the Catholic powers at that point hostile to Great Britain. Over the course of several days in June 1780, Catholic places of worship in London, as well as a number of public buildings, were looted and burned, and troops eventually had to be deployed to restore order.
The interior of the chapel of St Mary at Lulworth Castle by John Tasker of 1786-1787 (Denis Cameron)
But Weld had friends in high places. He was on close terms with George III, whom he subsequently entertained at Lulworth Castle on several occasions, and also much involved in campaigning for the relief of the penal laws. A family tradition has it that the king did not explicitly grant permission for a functioning church; he instead assented to the construction of a mausoleum and went on to state that how it was arranged internally was Weld’s own business. Whether this can be historically substantiated is unknown, but, in common with most churches erected between the Relief Act of 1791 and full emancipation in 1829, externally Tasker’s design lacked any unequivocally ecclesiastical trappings, such as a bell tower and statuary, or indeed any ornament based on religious symbolism. The airy, spacious, domed interior – an essay in the cool neo-classical manner of James Wyatt’s school – is another matter.
Painted decoration in the sacristy at Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and St Ignatius in Chideock, perhaps dating from the remodelling in c. 1815 of the old barn chapel by Humphrey Weld.
Weld had 14 children, the eldest of whom, Thomas Weld (1773-1837), took holy orders in 1820 following the early death of his wife and was eventually made a cardinal in 1830 by Pope Pius VIII while visiting Rome, where he then settled. As such, he became the first Englishman to bear that title since Philip Howard (1629-1694). In 1802, Thomas Weld senior purchased the Chideock estate for his sixth son, Humphrey. It lacked a suitable residence and in c. 1810 Humphrey Weld had built on the site of Dame Hallett’s farmhouse a substantial house, which is known as Chideock Manor. Tasker was approached for a design, which survives in the Weld papers in the Dorset Record Office, but for reasons that are currently unknown it was never executed. The interior incorporates spolia presumably salvaged from the ruins of the castle, such as fireplace lintels and chimneypieces, and the Manor was linked to the barn which had been used for clandestine worship during the penal years. This was turned into a proper chapel and fabric possibly dating from this period suggests that Humphrey Weld may have furnished and decorated the interior with some splendour. Archive photographs show that none of this showed externally and indeed the building presented a blind elevation to the road outside.
Charles Weld and what he built at Chideock: the mortuary chapel
General view from west of the Catholic cemetery and Weld Mortuary Chapel
Humphrey Weld died in 1852 and his estate was inherited by his son, Charles (1812-1885), who continued the family’s architectural exploits. One surmises that his father’s death prompted Charles to address the fact that, though the family was now well established at Chideock, it had no dedicated place of burial. A Catholic cemetery was laid out on a site slightly to the north of the Anglican parish church of St Giles in the centre of the village and work then began on a mortuary chapel, with Charles acting as his own architect. It is remarkable not only as an excellently preserved example of a rare building type, but also as a most original and strikingly forward-looking piece of architecture, to which one could be forgiven for ascribing a date a good half a century later.
The Crucifix adorning the west wall of the Weld Mortuary Chapel Painted ceiling in one of the arms of the Weld Mortuary Chapel depicting New Testament subjects, such as the Harrowing of Hell (left) and the Resurrection of Lazarus (top right)
Externally it is a compactly modelled form based on the ground plan of a Greek cross. The proportions and steep pitches of the roofs evoke the architecture of the Middle Ages. Some of the detailing is overtly Gothic, such as the clasping buttresses and a shouldered, Caernavon-type doorway, while the bands of fish-scale slates provide a distinctly High Victorian touch. Yet these devices are applied too sparingly to add up to a finite statement of the style. ‘Y’-tracery is curiously jammed into small oeil de boeuf windows. The rubble coursing of local stone is relieved not by architectural devices, but by two crosses, enormous in relation to the proportions of the elevations that they adorn. That to the east is entirely of abstract forms, executed of red bricks with a border of over-fired bricks, the only portion of dressed stonework being a diamond-shaped relief at the intersection of the arms bearing a complex monogram made up of the Chi-Rho, Alpha and Omega and the IHS Christogram.
The interior of the Weld Mortuary Chapel Tiled dado and terracotta frieze in the Weld Mortuary Chapel
That to the west is no less striking – the crucified Christ depicted in shallow relief, the upper section inscribed within an octagon with the symbols of the Evangelists in the angles of the arms of the Cross and, above Pilate’s inscription, the Mystic Lamb flanked by doves. It has all the monumentality of a free-standing Crucifix – and, indeed, a stepped plinth at the base – but has been drawn into the wall plane. The effect, like that of everything else about the exterior, is primitive, but a knowing, studied kind of primitivism, deliberately rough hewn. Nothing like it is encountered again in English architecture until the landmarks of the Arts and Crafts movement at the turn of the 20th century, and the Weld chapel makes an instructive comparison with W.R. Lethaby’s church of All Saints, Brockhampton in Herefordshire of 1901-1902.
Painted ceiling in one of the arms of the Weld Mortuary Chapel, with Old Testament subjects to the left (Abraham and Isaac, Moses striking the rock, Noah receiving the olive branch from the dove, etc) and New Testament subjects to the right (the Adoration of the Magi, Christ giving the Keys of Heaven to St Peter, etc) Painted ceiling in one of the arms of the Weld Mortuary Chapel: the iconographical scheme here consists entirely of Old Testament subjects. Daniel in the lions’ den, the three Israelites in Nebuchadnezzar’s furnace and the ascent to heaven of the Prophet Elijah are among those that can be identified.
Given the diminutive proportions of this structure, opportunities for innovative spatial organisation within inevitably were limited. Four pointed arches define a crossing, there are stepped brick cornices and the interior is open to the panelled underside of the roof structure. But this is more than made up for by the lively, exuberant decorative scheme. The walls are clad up to dado height in tiling with bold geometrical patterns, boldly coloured. Running along the top is a terracotta frieze with a repeated Chi-Rho encompassed by a laurel wreath and various other Christological symbols. Some of the gables, the wall above the crossing arches and all the ceilings are divided up into repeated patterns resembling coffering. These frame a wide variety of scenes, depicting persons and events from Scripture, as well as allegories and symbols, some in colour and others in grisaille. There are inscriptions in scrolls and bands of lettering. Smaller spaces are filled with medallions and there is a row of roundels with portraits of mainly Post-Reformation saints, including English martyrs such as St Cuthbert Mayne and Fr Hugh Green of Chideock (put to death in 1642, although not beatified until 1929). What is most striking after the exterior is that the aesthetic is determinedly neo-Classical.
View from northeast of the Weld Mortuary Chapel
Charles Weld and what he built at Chideock: Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and St Ignatius Loyola
Whether the need arose from a burgeoning congregation or whether the primary motivation was simply a desire for greater visibility is for the present unknown, but in 1870 Weld began work on a major enlargement of the old barn chapel attached to Chideock Manor. A nave was thrown out to the west, aligned on an axis at a right angle to it, thereby producing a building with a ‘T’-shaped plan. This allowed the church to be oriented and, although most of the exterior could only be properly appreciated from the pleasure grounds and thickly wooded park, still gave it much greater presence than before in the ensemble of the manor and outbuildings, especially when they were viewed from the public domain of the road outside.
The main approach to Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and St Ignatius, with part of Chideock Manor just visible to the left
The entrance front is arresting. The porch takes the form of a lean-to narthex with a chunkily proportioned, partly blind arcade supported on dwarf columns. Above, filling the upper part of the wall and gable is a device which has the visual presence of a rose window, yet admits no light to the interior (in any case, the space immediately behind it is an organ loft). In the centre is a statue of the Virgin Mary carved in the round, contained within a deep circular recess with a majolica backdrop of a vesica and stars. Circling it are eight majolica roundels containing depictions of the Seven Sorrows of Mary with, in the uppermost, the Crown of Thorns and her heart pierced by seven swords. All these are brightly coloured; the interstices, also of majolica, are monochrome and depict in relief crossed lilies and martyrs’ palms. Though the historical precedents are to be found in the early Italian Renaissance, the incorporation of a work of applied art as the centrepiece of an architectural scheme where ornament is applied very sparingly again looks forward to the Arts and Crafts movement.
Detail of the majolica centrepiece to the west front
In form, the nave is based on an early Christian basilica, although the guiding concern seems to have been to evoke the image of the prototype rather than an archaeologically correct recreation. Within, round-arched arcades of four bays are supported on single columns. It is a grand conception that in photographs belies the actually modest proportions of the building, which can be properly appreciated only in person. Indeed, given the rich decorative scheme in a variety of media, which is maintained throughout, and the limited amount of light reaching the interior, the overall effect is almost claustrophobic. Much of the decorative scheme was executed by Charles Weld himself. He carved the capitals of the nave arcade, which combine vigorous stiff leaves with a variety of symbolic motifs. One supposes that he was also responsible for the capitals to the colonettes supporting the triplets of clerestory windows in each bay. In this he was assisted by Benjamin Grassby (c. 1837-1896), an apprentice of George Myers, who had worked for Sir George Gilbert Scott and Thomas Earp between c. 1856 and 1860 before settling in Dorchester and setting up a highly successful sculpture and stone carving business.
General view of the interior looking eastOne of the capitals of the nave arcade, carved by Charles Weld with assistance from Benjamind Grassby
Weld was responsible for much of the wall decorations in the aisles, which are monochrome and based on the Instruments of the Passion to complement the framed paintings of the Stations of the Cross. He also designed the altars that terminate the aisles to the east. That on the north side is dedicated to the Sacred Heart and is housed in the central niche of a shallow polygonal apse with an elaborate painted scheme. That to the south, dedicated to St Ignatius Loyola, is set in an arched recess and richly carved and gilt, with a central statue of the saint encircled by portraits in medallions. Both altars have stone frontals richly carved in shallow relief.
Coloured and etched glass in one of the aisle window – all the glazing at ground level follows this pattern, presumably to maintain the privacy of the manor grounds outside. There is no figurative stained glass anywhere in the building.General view of the interior of the nave looking west towards the main entrance
A frieze between the arcade and clerestory contains portraits of 34 English martyrs and Sir John Arundell, all painted by members of the Weld family. The Chideock martyrs are nearest the sanctuary. Other martyrs represented include St Thomas More, St John Fisher, St Cuthbert Mayne and Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury. The interior is open to the structure of the arch-braced roof, but this is finished with boarding to allow for an extensive decorative scheme, also executed by Weld. The surface is divided into squares filled with two-dimensional patterns based on classical motifs with medallions in the centre bearing various symbolic motifs. The scheme become increasingly elaborate towards the east end, with figures depicted in grisaille bearing martyrs’ palms, portraits of the Evangelists and so on. Stylistically, it is consistent with the ceiling decoration of the Mortuary Chapel, though the colour scheme is muted by comparison – at any rate, inasmuch as could be judged in the rather dim lighting.
The Chapel of the Sacred Heart at the east end of the north nave aisle: note the memorial brass to Sir Frederick Aloysius Weld (d. 1891) by Gawthorp of London, partly visible in the middle ground. The doorway visible to the left provides access to a lean-to extension known as the cloister, which currently houses an exhibition about the Catholic history of Chideock.The chapel of St Ignatius Loyola at the east end of the south aisle
The church was consecrated in 1874. No illustrations or plans have yet been discovered which show how the east end was arranged, but it is not difficult to imagine that the fabric of the old barn chapel must have compared increasingly unfavourably to Weld’s splendid nave. As the liturgical focus of the building, the altar demanded a more dignified setting. Around ten years later, it got it when the east end was remodelled. Though Weld was still alive, on this occasion a professional architect was engaged. The reasons for that await discovery, but the chosen solution displays a certain structural daring and, conceivably, Weld feared that his own lack of technical expertise might lead to problems. The shell of the barn chapel was retained, but a new domed structure was dropped into it, forming a sort of gigantic baldacchino. It is supported on all four sides by serlianas, though the central arch of each one is pointed rather than round. Pointed too are the squinch arches in the angles, which effect the transition from square to octagon. Above, more arches with pendentives transform the octagon to a circle, on which rests a spherical dome, lit by sexfoils at the angles. The decorative treatment of this part of the building is very different to the nave. Instead of stiff leaf carving, the capitals, which are supported on octagonal shafts, are modelled with flat surfaces and deeply incised ornament based on abstracted motifs. The entablature is inscribed with the opening verse of the Canticle of David (1 Chronicles 29:10) ‘Benedictus es, Domine Deus patrum nostrorum, et laudabilis in saecula’. Given the historical context of the church, the phrase ‘Deus patrum nostrorum’ – literally ‘the God of our fathers’ – carries particular weight.
The baptistry at the west end of the north aisleView of the high altar from the Weld family pew
The serliana at the junction of the nave and sanctuary effectively functions as a chancel screen, while that on the east side is used to create a setting for the reredos. The east wall of the old barn chapel was built up externally with a transverse gable and decorated internally with an elaborate and vibrantly coloured and patterned painted scheme. In the centre is a vesica with a gilt statue in the centre, supported on a bracket, of Our Lady being carried heavenward by angels. This is lit with baroque theatricality by daylight from a concealed source – a cinquefoil in the transverse gable. The combined free-standing altar and reredos is richly carved and polychromed, with paintings executed by members of the Weld family of their patron saints: St Edmund, St Lucy, St Humphrey and St Apollonia. But the Gothic detailing is weak, generic and at odds with its architectural setting. It does not appear to have been designed for this location and probably predates it. On the north side of the sanctuary is the family pew, to which there was formerly direct access from the manor house (since it was sold in 1996 no longer inhabited by the Weld family), while to the south is a largely blank wall, with a doorway giving access to the sacristy. This contains a now badly faded but once elaborate painted scheme, perhaps dating from Humphrey Weld’s remodelling of the barn chapel in 1815.
General view of the chancel arch and dome above the sanctuaryGeneral view of the sanctuary, with a modern forward altar visible in the middle ground; the Weld family pew is just visible to the upper left. The provenance of the statue of the Virgin and Child on a Solomonic column with cosmatesque inlay to the spirals is currently unknown. It is one of a pair – its counterpart on the north side, visible in the illustrations above, depicts St Joseph.
Internally, the dome is painted light blue and powdered with gilt stars, as shown in the photograph forming the featured image at the top of the page. There is a gilt roundel in the centre consisting of densely packed bands of ornament with the Hand of God in the middle flanked by the Alpha and Omega. But externally is it finished with diagonal bands of coloured and glazed tiles, rising up to a lead-clad finial and gilt cross. This can be glimpsed in views from the west, in which it picks up the majolica reliefs of the entrance front, but can only be properly appreciated from the grounds of the manor. The tiles were reinstated in 2014, when a slate covered mansard roof, which had been substituted for them in the 20th century, was removed.
Aerial view from southeast of Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and St Ignatius and Chideock Manor, showing the garden front of the latter: the envelope of the old barn chapel can still be clearly read and much of its fabric survives intact, although the slate roof coverings that include bands of fish scale tiles, as well as the crested ridge tiles, must date from Charles Weld’s programme of extension and remodelling. The transverse eastern gable with the cinquefoil that provides concealed lighting for the reredos is visible, as it the entire volume of the dome. It is not known whether the three image niches were ever filled with statues. (www.chideockmanorgarden.co.uk)
Weld’s collaborator
Presentation drawing of the interior Church of the Holy Name in Manchester, presumably from the office of its architect, J.A. Hansom. It was built in 1867-1871, latterly under the guidance of Joseph Stanislaus Hansom, although the upper stages of the west tower were not completed until the 1920s and then to a different design. (Jesuits Britain)
The nominal architect of the domed sanctuary was Joseph Stanislaus Hansom (1845-1931). He was born into a dynasty of Catholic architects, who had attained their standing thanks to the post-Emancipation building boom. Joseph’s father was Joseph Aloysius Hansom (1803-1882), a native of York who descended from a line of recusants. During his early career in the 1820s-1840s, he secured a number of prestigious commissions, such as Birmingham Town Hall, won in a competition of 1831, which he entered jointly with Edward Welch (1806-1868). The two young architects stood surety for the builders and, as a result of underestimating the cost of transporting the hard stone from Anglesey with which the building was to be faced, went bankrupt in 1834. Hansom then left architectural practice for several years and went into business, taking out a patent in 1834 for what came to be known as the Hansom cab and then in 1842 setting up The Builder, the first issue of which appeared in December that same year. He then returned to architectural practice, now thoroughly imbued with the teachings of Pugin, as an ecclesiastical specialist. He produced some of the most boldly original designs of the 1850s and 1860s, such as St Walburge’s in Preston (1850-1854), where a mighty single vessel, to which a crazily tall tower and spire were added in 1869, is spanned by an immense hammerbeam roof. At St Wilfrid’s in Ripon (1860-1862), the building culminates in an extraordinary lofty apsidal chancel that is taller than the nave and treated as a tower-like form, a device tried again at St Mary’s, Lochee in Dundee of 1865. At the Jesuit church of Holy Name, Oxford Road in Manchester, inventive planning based on medieval Spanish prototypes and structural innovation – the use of terracotta blocks allowed the span of the vaults to be greatly increased – led to the creation of an exhilaratingly broad and lofty interior.
The interior of St Walburge’s Chuch in Preston (J.A. Hansom, 1850-1854), as illustrated in The Builder of 14th February 1852: this view shows the church as originally designed, prior to the addition of the apsidal sanctuary in 1872.
Hansom taught his younger brother, Charles Francis Hansom (1817-1888), who went on to design a number of equally powerful buildings, notably St John the Evangelist in Bath (1861-1863), whose 220-foot-tall spire is one of that city’s landmarks. Charles Francis Hansom’s son, Edward Joseph Hansom (1842-1900), after training with and working in partnership with his father, moved to Newcastle in 1871 and formed a new partnership with Archibald Matthias Dunn (1832-1917). Among other things, this practice designed the new chapel of 1882-1884 for Ushaw College in County Durham – the successor institution to the English College in Douai – and the cathedral-sized church of Our Lady and English Martyrs in Cambridge (1885-1890). Joseph Aloysius took Joseph Stanislaus into partnership in 1869 and the son was jointly responsible for some of his father’s works, including Holy Name in Manchester. The younger Joseph also took over the practice of John Crawley (1834-1881) on that architect’s death and oversaw the completion of a number of his commissions, such as the Cathedral of St John the Evangelist in Portsmouth.
Yet his own architectural personality is hard to pin down. Though he could hardly have been better placed to acquire a comprehensive training and establish advantageous professional connections, in other respect his circumstances counted against him. There can have been little opportunity to emerge from the shadow of his father and uncle until both had retired, and by that point the opportunities for major new commissions were much decreased. Though more study is needed to give a proper account of his career, J.S. Hansom seems to have confined himself mostly to piecemeal additions to existing buildings, usually by this father. Only one complete design for a church by him has so far been traced – Our Lady of Sorrows in Bognor Regis, West Sussex, built in 1881-1882, although not executed in full. The facade is muscular Gothic, somewhat tardive for its date and handled without any great panache. The interior is relatively plain and, in any case, has been much altered in the 20th century. Yet there are works that hint at greater individuality, such as the original and powerfully modelled tower in a free Romanesque that he added in 1881-1882 to his father’s church of St Mary Immaculate in Falmouth, Cornwall.
Our Lady of Sorrows and the adjoining Servite convent in Bognor Regis, West Sussex: originally published in The Builder of 19th November 1881, this artist’s impression was later turned into a postcard, apparently to aid a fundraising drive. The proposed transepts, Lady Chapel and sanctuary were never built, and the five bays of the nave – all that was ever completed of J.S. Hansom’s scheme – terminated in a blind wall until the mid-1950s, when W.C. Mangan added an eastern arm to his own design. The convent closed in 1975 and the adjacent building housing the nuns’ quarters was subsequently demolished for redevelopment. (The Bone Postcard Collection, to be deposited in West Sussex Record Office)General view looking west of the interior of St Joseph’s in Wool by Anthony Jaggard, 1969-1971 (Malcolm Woods)
The church at Chideock has been little altered since the completion of Hansom’s domed sanctuary and it avoided the kind of wholesale reordering carried out in so many Catholic churches following the Second Vatican Council. But the story of the Weld family’s architectural patronage does not end here, since in 1968 Sir Joseph Weld (1909-1992) commissioned what turned out to be one of the most striking and original post-war churches to be built for any denomination. The Church of St Joseph was built in 1969-1971 to serve the village of Wool north of Lulworth, the population of which had been swelled during the 20th century by the establishment nearby of military bases. Designed by Anthony Jaggard (1936-2020) of John Stark and Partners, it is a remarkable instance of a modernist architectural language at its most uncompromising being put at the service of the most traditional of briefs, as epitomised by the inclusion of a family pew – perhaps the last such to be built in any English church. Unusually for a Catholic church built in the years immediately after the Second Vatican Council, it eschews centralised planning for a conventional longitudinal configuration. The broad nave is spanned without any intermediate supports thanks to the use of a space-frame roof structure built of polished aluminium. Plans to install stained glass came to naught and, as Elain Harwood notes in England’s Post-war Listed Buildings, ‘the interior relies on the strength and quality of its materials’ for its architectural effect. The roof slopes gently upwards from west to east and the sanctuary – overlooked by the family pew on the north side – is top-lit by a lantern which externally forms the visual focus, making the building a distant echo of the Chideock church.
General view from southwest of St Joseph’s in Wool by Anthony Jaggard, 1969-1971 (Michael Day)
Conclusion
Assigning labels is a risky business. Though it is tempting to categorise Weld’s work as amateur architecture, the term cannot be fairly used without guarding against certain associations which do him an injustice. He was an amateur only in the sense that architecture was not for him a vocation. Though his aesthetic is highly personal, it is not naïve, nor is it wilfully eccentric – two qualities which sometimes arise from the lack of a professional grounding. As far as is known, Weld was his own paymaster and, within the limits of his own means, had total control over the execution of both buildings at Chideock. Neither the mortuary chapel nor the church is a fluke – they are both serious, carefully considered piece of architecture. But a great deal remains to be discovered about them and the influences Weld had absorbed, from which he subsequently distilled these designs. Reputedly, he travelled widely on the Continent and was prodigiously cultured, but for the moment these claims have to be taken on trust.
All Saints, Brockhampton, Herefordshire (W.R. Lethaby, 1901-1902), general view from southwest
A brief examination of entries for Weld family papers in the Dorset Record Office returned by the on-line catalogue does not return any results that appear immediately relevant. Anecdotally, Charles Weld’s own papers were all lost in an accidental fire, which, if true, represents a huge loss to architectural scholarship. But some valuable conclusions can still be drawn from comparative study and, in turn, more questions invite themselves. The influence of the Gothic Revival was so pervasive by the time that Weld began work that to reject an architectural language based on the heritage of the English Middle Ages represents a conscious position. What, then, were his grounds for doing so? What was his attitude to Pugin and the other Goths? What was his measure of propriety for Catholic sacred architecture? Taking an early Christian basilica as a model for the nave at Chideock is unusual for the 1870s, considerably in advance of a trend in Catholic ecclesiastical architecture that, though extensive, only established itself much later – a locus classicus for it might be Sir Giles Gilbert Scott’s church of St Alphege in Bath of 1925-1929. What prompted this choice? Joseph Stanislaus Hansom’s work at Chideock is very unlike anything of the school in which he had been formed and practised. Did Weld choose him from what was by that point a crowded field because of a sympathetic aesthetic outlook? Was Weld involved in the design process of the sanctuary and dome? If so, what were his and Hansom’s relative contributions?
General view of the interior of Our Lady and St Alphege, Oldfield Lane in Bath, designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (1880-1960) and built mainly in 1927-1929, although not finally completed until the 1950s. (Dan Brown)
The way in which the mortuary chapel prefigures Lethaby’s innovations at Brockhampton has already been mentioned. But there are also some parallels from much closer in time. Taken as a whole, Our Lady, Queen of Martyrs and St Ignatius is reminiscent in its planning and, to a degree, also stylistically of St Joseph’s Church in Highgate, London, built in 1888-1889 to the design of Albert Vicars (1840-1896). That building also incorporates a broad nave based loosely on early Christian prototypes. Here, too, the it leads towards a domed space, which, instead of rising above a crossing, encompasses the sanctuary. Coincidence? Or is there a line of influence waiting to be discovered? It should be noted in passing that the community of the Passionist Fathers which serves the church resides in an attached clergy house of 1874-1875 by the same F.W. Tasker mentioned above as the grandson of the architect of the East Lulworth church. It exemplifies his spare, but refined classicising manner – every bit as radical a departure from the Puginian tradition as the other buildings discussed here.
General view of the interior of St Joseph’s Church, Highgate Hill by Albert Vicars, 1888-1889 (Lucio Carta)
The motif of the Serliana with a pointed arch to the central opening appears in a work by the remarkable French architect Pierre-Marie Bossan (1814-1888). A native of Lyon, he began his career with accomplished, but unadventurous work in an historicising vein, such as the church of Saint-Georges de Lyon in his home city, begun in 1842. During a prolonged sojourn in Italy begun in 1845, occasioned by the need to escape creditors after the failure of a gas-light company in which he and his brother had invested heavily, he visited Sicily. There, he discovered the highly individual buildings put up during the period of Norman rule on the island, such as the cathedrals of Monreale and Cefalù, and the Palatine chapel in Palermo, which combine Romanesque and early Gothic with Byzantine and Moorish influences. When Bossan resumed architectural practice on his return to France, his style had changed dramatically. The verbatim quotations from Sicilian prototypes are plain enough to see, but what is most striking is the way in which a wide range of diverse, even disparate influences have been synthesised into an idiom that is wholly personal and, crucially, immediately identifiable as a product of the 19th century.
Plans and artist’s impressions of F.W. Tasker’s design for St Joseph’s Retreat for the Passionist Fathers on Highgate Hill, as published in The Building News of 1st January 1875. This shows the complex more or less as built, although before the existing church of 1863 was demolished and replaced by the much larger successor designed by Albert Vicars and illustrated above, which now visually dominates the complex.
Bossan’s most celebrated work is Notre-Dame de Fourvière in Lyons, a votive church begun in 1872 as a thank offering for the defeat of the Prussians at the second battle of Dijon two years earlier during the Franco-Prussian War. It his wholly characteristic of his mature style, but the building where a kinship with Chideock becomes evident is the Basilica of St Philomena at Ars-sur-Formans in the Auvergne, built in 1862-1865 to house the shrine of Jean-Marie Vianney (1786-1859), the parish priest under whole influence Bossan became a devout Catholic, who became the subject of a cult soon after his death and was eventually canonised in 1925. Bossan produced a church on a centralised plan based on an irregular octagon with a central lantern. It is in the vestibule-like space forming the junction between this and the medieval nave, retained in commemoration of Vianney, that the Gothic serliana appears.
The interior of the Basilica of St Philomena at Ars-sur-Formans in the Auvergne by Pierre-Marie Bossan of 1862-1865 (Jean-Marie Clausse)
Architectural scholarship is a good deal more than an ‘I-Spy’ game of identifying shared devices, of course, and one would not want to push the comparison. Perhaps Weld was aware of Bossan’s work and drew inspiration from it. But perhaps the points of similarity are entirely coincidental and arose quite independently of each other. What does, however, seem plausible to me is that both architects shared one of the great preoccupations of the 19th century – the search for an authentically contemporary idiom. Though in Britain the Gothic Revival produced many works of great power and originality, in the ecclesiastical field there is all too often a sense that the architects (and certainly the clergy) of the Middle Ages are looking over the designers’ shoulders. The sources may be diverse, but there is always a great concern with archaeological precedent. This perceived failure of Victorian architects to produce a style that belonged wholly to their own century weighed heavily on the minds of certain representatives of the profession. ‘How is it that there is no modern style of architecture?’ was the title of an after-dinner address given by no less a figure than Alexander Thomson (1817-1875) in April 1871 to the Glasgow Institute of Architects. In it, he appealed for an understanding of the fundamental laws that had guided architecture of all civilisations and periods to replace canons of taste based on archaeological fidelity, which he hoped would free the art from ‘the bondage of dead forms’. But while all that is clear enough where Thomson’s inimitable architecture is concerned (and it is sometimes forgotten that he was classed by Goodhart-Rendel as a ‘rogue’), it can only be advanced as a tentative hypothesis in relation to the church and mortuary chapel at Chideock.
Exterior view from south of the Basilica of St Philomena at Ars-sur-Formans in the Auvergne by Pierre-Marie Bossan of 1862-1865: the red brick tower and all the fabric to the right of it are what was retained of the medieval church on the site. (Wikipedia Commons)
To return to the opening of this conclusion, the kind of terms usually applied to buildings such as these – to ‘amateur architecture’ one might add ‘eclectic’ – are loose-fitting and unhelpful. If there is no pat label to hand, then they are categorised apophatically in terms of what they are not, which of course in this instance means Gothic. A short study like this can do no more than highlight possible lines of inquiry: there must be a Master’s dissertation at the very least and, quite possibly, a doctoral thesis in Weld’s work at Chideock, and it is unlikely that we could arrive at a proper understanding of it without viewing it in a very broad context. But whatever such a study brings to light, this is architecture that deserves at last to be understood on its own terms.
Cross adorning the east wall of the Weld Mortuary Chapel in Chideock
The three series of Six English Towns that Alec Clifton-Taylor made for the BBC in the 1970s-1980s are an excellent introduction to some of the most attractive, best preserved and architecturally most rewarding historic places in the country. All 18 subjects were well chosen and all of them will repay handsomely the time and effort of a day trip. For a while I was under the misapprehension that Faversham was among them. It was not – the only town in Kent to be included was Sandwich. But I aver that I was not wholly misguided in thinking that it might have been, since Clifton-Taylor would have found a great deal to enjoy there, principally the huge variety of vernacular buildings and traditional construction techniques, Georgian townhouses, well-preserved streetscapes and engaging topography in which he typically delighted. But, as someone whose antipathy for Victorian architecture was well known, there is also something which would have greatly displeased him, and it is this.
Corbel on the north side of the chapel of Faversham Almshouses
If one heads out of the medieval centre to the south or west, the townscape changes dramatically. Half-timbering, limewash, cladding in mathematical tiles, weatherboarding, stucco and peg tile roofs are replaced by stock brick, terracotta, slate and cast iron. Houses on main streets gain an extra storey. The haphazard, irregular medieval street pattern gives way to a strictly orthogonal layout. It is as though one had suddenly been spirited to a London suburb. And then one chances upon a most extraordinary apparition. A steeply pointed roof and twin, pencil-like turrets have been playing hide-and-seek in views from afar for some time now. But when one emerges onto South Road, one is struck not merely by the assertiveness of these features, but the sheer scale of the building to which they are attached. The chapel of which they form a part is merely the centrepiece of an immense frontage which stretches out in both directions to attain a length of nearly 500ft (152m). It would be striking enough in a big city, to say nothing of a market town. What is it and who designed it? One immediately suspects a neglected masterpiece by a major figure. But it is not.
Exterior from liturgical east of the chapel of Faversham Almshouses
Henry Wreight’s bequest and how the almshouses came to be
Almshouses are a prominent feature of many historic urban centres in Britain, and the building type has a long and illustrious history. Before the advent of the Welfare State, they fulfilled a vital role in providing for the poor and infirm in their old age. Like any town of comparable antiquity and substance, Faversham – a limb of the Cinque Ports and location of a major abbey until the Dissolution of the Monasteries – had several. How they came to be superseded by the edifice described above is an intriguing story recounted in The Building of the New Almshouses in Faversham by John Blackford, a booklet published in 2013 to mark the 150th anniversary of its opening, from which most of the information that follows is drawn. It begins with Henry Wreight (1760-1840), a successful and wealthy local solicitor, who founded two new sets of almshouses – one for six poor widows on Preston Street, and another for former dredgers or their widows on Abbey Street. By the time of his death, Wreight, who never married and had no dependants other than a widowed sister, had amassed a considerable fortune. He bequeathed to the town the bulk of his estate – valued at £80,000, an astronomical sum for the period – intending it to be used for good works.
Faversham Almshouses: the main front to South Road
A board of trustees to administer the town’s various charities had been set up four years prior to Wreight’s death and there was no shortage of deserving causes. But the terms of the will were vague and this left the trustees in a quandary as to how to put such munificence to a worthy use. Initially they proposed to rebuild and endow the town’s National Schools. This was agreed by the Charity Commissioners, whom they approached for guidance on the administration of the legacy. In turn, the Commissioners encouraged the trustees to apply to the Attorney General for a scheme to set out their objectives, which was eventually formalised by an Order in Chancery in 1856. Various proposals were entertained involving the improvement and expansion of the existing almshouses in the town before at some point in 1854/1855 they settled on the notion of uniting them all into a single institution, for which they would build new premises. To this end, they initially approached the architect Richard Charles Hussey (1802-1887). Born in Harbledown just outside Canterbury, Hussey initially trained with John Wallen (1785-1865), just like T.E. Knightley.
The former National Schools in Faversham by R.C. Hussey of 1852 – the inscription over the main entrance records that it was put up ‘by the Trustees of Public Charities of this Town out of Funds munificently bequeathed for Charitable Purposes by Henry Wreight Esq’.The vault over the main entrance of the former Faversham National Schools
But the main influence on his professional development was Thomas Rickman (1776-1841), an important pioneer of the Gothic Revival, whose Birmingham-based office he joined in 1831. Rickman not only designed some of the first churches in which an archaeologically correct revival of medieval architecture was seriously attempted, but was also an antiquarian and scholar, who, in An Attempt to Discriminate the Styles of English Architecture of 1817, had set out the terms describing the main phases of English gothic – Early English, Decorated and Perpendicular – still in use today. Hussey became a partner in the firm in 1835 and took over as principal in 1838 when Rickman’s health began to fail. He practised extensively in his native county, undertaking numerous restorations of medieval churches, and was the architect of the new building of the National Schools in Faversham, completed in 1852 – an unusually lavish and grandly-scaled example of the type, planned like a collegiate complex with a tall gatehouse tower and inner quadrangle. The brief that he was handed by the trustees envisaged not just almshouses comprising 30 dwellings with their own chapel, but also a commercial school, library and a reading room.
Cleave’s almshouses in Kingston upon Thames of 1668, a good example of the classic configuration of this building type, with a central chapel flanked by residential wings.The neo-Jacobean Bedingfield almhouses on Lambseth Street in Eye, Suffolk – new accommodation of 1850 for an establishment founded in 1636, as the inscription on the front declares, and a good smaller early Victorian example of the type. The new edition of the Suffolk volume of The Buildings of England ascribes this to a builder from Diss called Thomas Farrow, but such a confident piece of design suggests the hand of a regionally, if not nationally significant figure.
Satisfied that the trustees were making good progress with the educational components of their scheme (which included not only capital works, but also funds to provide clothing for former pupils of the town’s national schools and exhibitions for study at Oxford or Cambridge for former pupils of its grammar school), in 1858 the Court of Chancery granted them permission to proceed with their plan for the new almshouses. Hussey’s design was adopted and submitted for approval to the then-attorney general, Sir Richard Bethell. At this point, events took an unexpected turn. In a letter of August 1859, Bethell castigated the design in the most virulent terms. ‘Everything is wrong. The site seems bad, the position of the Chapel which is so far from some of the houses, and the general idea… The sum to be expended is too large… instead of separate houses there should be one or two large houses built in flats and connected to the Chapel by a corridor’. As if this were not enough, the proposed library attracted little support from the townsfolk, who wanted a recreation ground instead. The trustees requested permission from Bethell to use part of Wreight’s legacy to purchase farmland on the east side of the town, but this was refused. The proposal could not be enacted until the following year when a local landowner, who in the meantime had purchased the land to build housing next to the new railway station, offered part of it for sale at a much reduced price and a portion of the cost was offset by a campaign of public subscription. The recreation ground was ceremonially opened in August 1860, but the library project fell by the wayside.
The former mortuary chapels (now the crematorium) of Woodvale Cemetery in Brighton by Robert Wheeler of 1856 (Wikipedia Commons)North Lodge of Woodvale Cemetery in Brighton by Robert Wheeler of 1856 (Wikipedia Commons)
Supported by the Master of the Rolls, Bethell had insisted that Hussey should discard his existing scheme for the almhouses and prepare a new design. Instead, the trustees decided to open the field to new entrants and to hold a competition. The brief for the scheme was based on Bethell’s stipulations: the almhouses, all of which were to have a sitting room, a kitchen, two bedrooms and necessary outbuildings, should be linked by a covered way to a chapel in the centre of the complex. The site chosen for the complex was in the angle of Ospringe Road (later renamed South Road) and Tanners’ Street, and as many of the houses as possible were to have a frontage to one of these roads. The total cost was not to exceed £11,000 and the closing date for entries was 31st May 1860. George Gilbert Scott, who at the time was engaged in a major scheme of works to remodel and refurnish the town’s enormous parish church of St Mary of Charity, was invited to act as judge, but declined the offer because of pressure of work and suggested instead approaching Benjamin Ferrey, Philip Hardwick Junior and John Loughborough Pearson. The trustees settled on Ferrey, who undertook a ‘blind’ assessment and drew up a shortlist of four designs from which they were to select a winner.
Enter Wheeler and Hooker
The colourful display of tiles by Minton and Maw in the sanctuary of the chapel of Faversham Almshouses
Their choice, with which Ferrey concurred, had been entered under the initials ‘W.H’. These were not the initials of an individual, but the first letters of the surnames of Robert Wheeler (1830-1902) and John Marshall Hooker (1829-1906), two architects who had formed a partnership only the previous year. Hooker had been born into a landowning family in Brenchley near Tunbridge Wells. Nothing is currently known of his training, but from 1853 to 1857 he was in partnership with an obscure architect based in Margate by the name of William Caveler (dates unknown), who in 1835 had published Select Specimens of Gothic Architecture. Hooker’s earliest work so far identified is the rectory in Manton, a small village in the north of Lincolnshire to the southeast of Scunthorpe. He was back on more familiar turf in 1859, when he was engaged to design the combined gardener’s lodge and pavilion for the new recreation ground in Faversham. The banding of red bricks and striped voussoirs to the arches imply a passing familiarity with Ruskinian influence, but otherwise this is a charming exercise in the early Victorian cottage orné mode, full of self-consciously picturesque devices such as the acutely pitched roofs, the overscaled bargeboards and central oriel window. The tile-hanging is a recent addition – the first floor was originally finished in dummy half-timbering. In 1860, Hooker designed in a similar vein (apparently a solo effort, despite the partnership with Wheeler) a school on Churchfields in Hertford. This was established by Abel Smith (1788-1859), the banker and sometime MP for Hertfordshire, to take the girls from the Cowper School in the town, which had been established in 1841 and was now oversubscribed. The layout follows a well established pattern in consisting of a couple of large schoolrooms, arranged in a ‘T’ shape, with the schoolmaster’s house adjoining one end of the larger of the two.
J.M. Hooker’s former gardener’s lodge of 1859 in Faversham Recreation Ground
Beyond the scant biographical details that can be extracted from censuses, Wheeler’s background and training still await elucidation. A native of Worcester, by 1856 he had an independent practice in London and apparently participated in competitions for a number of municipal cemeteries. That same year, he was engaged to design a new parish cemetery for Brighton, a measure made necessary in 1853 when the Privy Council prohibited burials in or around the churches and chapels in the town under the Burials Beyond the Metropolis Act. Wheeler’s mortuary chapels (adapted as a crematorium in 1930) embody a confidently handled robust kind of Geometrical Decorated Gothic, rather in the manner of R.C. Carpenter. The building follows the typical configuration of the period in consisting of separate chapels for nonconformists and Anglicans, arranged in a symmetrical composition with a bell tower and spire rising over what was originally a carriage arch for hearses in the centre. Lodges flanking the head of the drive from Lewes Road survive, although the ceremonial archway that formerly linked then, built as a memorial to the Marquess of Bristol, was demolished in 1947. Only one building other than the Faversham Almshouses has been positively identified as a joint work and that is the church of St Hybald’s in Manton of 1861, where Hooker had built the new rectory seven years previously. It is a typical High Victorian smaller rural church in Middle Pointed with a diminutive tower and spire over the porch to give it extra presence in the landscape – all wholly characteristic of the period but not embodying an especially distinctive architectural personality.
The former church of St Hybald (now a private residential property) in Manton, Lincolnshire by Hooker and Wheeler of 1861 (Mark Woods)
The same could not be said of the almshouses. The terms of the trustees’ scheme and the prescriptions of the Attorney General had a considerable bearing on the design. The basic configuration of a chapel positioned in the centre and flanked by terraces of two-storey cottages was well established for almshouses and examples are legion. What is surprising here is the greatly increased scale. In addition to the total of 28 dwellings provided by the five old complexes, the opportunity was taken to use part of Wreight’s legacy to create two more beneficiaries, bringing the number up to 30. The dwellings were generously appointed relative to comparable accommodation elsewhere, with living rooms of 13ft by 11ft (4m by 3.4m) and kitchens of 12ft by 11ft (3.7m by 3.4m); other rooms seem to have varied in size. The architects took the decision to turn the principal frontage towards the busier of the two thoroughfares, which links Faversham with its satellite of Ospringe (now effectively absorbed into the town) on the Roman Watling Street. The ground slopes across the site and extensive groundworks, carried out by a local contractor, were needed to provide a level terrace before Chinnock’s of Southampton could move in to begin construction. The foundation stone was laid on 8th August 1862 and the first houses were ready for occupation by June the following year, but work on the chapel seems to have dragged, since it not dedicated until September 1866.
The former schoolmaster’s house of what was originally the Abel Smith Memorial School on Church Path in Hertford, designed by J.M. Hooker and built in 1860 (Andrew Wood)The former Abel Smith Memorial School in Hertford from the north (Andrew Wood)
With such a long frontage composed of repeated identical units, there was a real danger of monotony, and indeed the fenestration follows a set pattern. But thereafter Hooker and Wheeler deployed every weapon in their arsenal against it. How is this done? Firstly, the elevation is articulated into a series of advancing and receding planes. At first floor level, alternative pairs of front bedrooms break forward over the covered walkway, united above by a shared gable. Yet the intermediate pairs also break forward slightly (and on both floors), each one independently, its presence emphasised with a hipped roof. The openings of the covered walkway aligned with the entrances to the dwellings are paired, like the doorways behind them. The openings in front of the sitting room windows are, naturally enough, wider and also higher, breaking through the eaves line of the walkway into dormers in order to admit extra light. In between the bays that break forward at first floor level, the covered walkway is supported by elegantly slender columns, their shafts made of cast iron, set on tall bases of complex form and capped with typically High Victorian overscaled foliate capitals, all of which makes of each of them a complex, highly sculptural form. The arcade has a monumentality that belies its almost toy-like proportions, which only become evident on close inspection.
The east residential wing of Faversham AlmshousesThe walkway of the west residential wing of Faversham Almshouses looking towards the entrance to the chapel
Where the arches have to be load bearing, naturally enough they are bulkier and the articulation into pillar and arch is dispensed with. Thus an ABBC rhythm is established – or would be, were it not for the fact that the arches of the endmost bays of the walkway (i.e. those that adjoin the chapel or the cross wings) are trefoiled and rise up into crocketed gables. The same units are cut and reshuffled for the lateral fronts of the crosswings, where the openings of the covered walkway follow an AABBABBAA pattern. The end elevations of the cross wings have handsome polygonal gables at first floor level growing out of a buttress at ground-floor level. In the inner angles of the returns are towers with tall, hipped pyramidal roofs. These originally housed water tanks, fed by wells on the premises, though the system proved so unreliable that by 1864 negotiations were in hand to connect the complex to the municipal supply. Red brick with Bath stone dressings and banding was chosen for the facing material, as it was thought to be warmer than the Kentish rag popular at the time for Gothic buildings. White bricks are used in places to achieve sparing but effective polychromatic patterning for some of the arch heads and relieving arches, and also for the splendid bases of the chimney stacks, which sport set-offs that are both striped and tumbled.
Interior of the chapel of Faversham Almshouses looking towards the sanctuaryThe former east window from the parish church of St Mary of Charity at the (liturgical) west end of the chapel of Faversham Almshouses by Thomas Willement of 1844: note the coat of arms of the Cinque Ports in the central light below the figure of the Virgin and Child, who is flanked by St Peter (left) and St Paul (right).
Ashlar Bath stone facing was used for the chapel to set it off against the surrounding expanses of red brick, but in any case it could hardly fail to stand out. A substantial building, it was intended to seat a total of 220 people, considerably in excess of the 60 sittings to be provided for the residents. The tall, narrow proportions, the polygonal apse and the Geometrical Decorated tracery allude to the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, a popular model at the time for institutional places of worship. But instead of a tall flèche astride the roof ridge, two octagonal turrets rise from the lobbies either side where the covered walkway meets it. The internal proportions are imposing. Tall shafts supporting the roof trusses mark off each bay and the slightly overscaled ornament beloved of High Victorian Goths abounds. The chapel departs from its model in having short lean-to aisles of two bays and large areas of blank walling in the nave – inevitable, given that it is abutted here by the residential wings. The interior was initially to have been faced with ashlar, but when the tenders were opened they were in excess of the £11,000 budgeted for construction and Hooker and Wheeler, in cooperation with Ferrey, devised a number of cost-cutting measures of which one was substitution of the ashlar facing for a plastered surface. Initially the glazing was entirely plain and all the colour was concentrated in the gorgeous Minton tilework of the sanctuary, with encaustic tiling used not only for the floor, but also for the wall panelling where it forms a setting for carved roundels. No stained glass appeared until 1895, when scenes from the Life of Christ by Lavers and Westlake were introduced in the apse windows. In 1911, the former east window from the parish church of St Mary of Charity – a major work of 1844 by Thomas Willement (1786-1871), who had resided at nearby Davington Priory – was installed here in the large traceried window at the west end.
The chapel of Faversham Almshouses looking towards the liturgical west end and showing the community room created by the subdivision of the nave in 1982Pulpit in the chapel of Faversham Almshouses
The almshouses have survived well and remain in use for the purpose for which they were built. The chapel spires were taken down in 1964 because of concerns over their safety, but reinstated in 1991, albeit slightly smaller than before. The external ironwork, which must have fallen prey to the scrap drives of World War II, was reinstated around the same time. In 1982, an extensive refurbishment was carried out, which included the subdivision of the west end of the chapel to create a community space for residents. In 1989, new accommodation blocks were added, tactfully positioned and scaled to keep them visually subservient to the main building. By the time the original construction campaign had finished, Wheeler and Hooker were no longer working together, their partnership apparently having been dissolved in c. 1863. Hooker apparently remained in architectural practice until c. 1889, despite having been declared bankrupt in 1886, following which he moved to Philadelphia where his son was already living. What he designed and where remains to be discovered.
The liturgical west end of the chapel and rear elevation of the residential wings of Faversham AlmshousesThe lateral elevation of the west cross-wing of Faversham Almshouses
What Wheeler did next: the churches
The east end of the chapel at Pembury Hospital (originally Tonbridge Workhouse) in Kent by Robert Wheeler of 1863-1864
Wheeler remained active until at least the mid-1880s (when he may have added the bell tower to the church of St Paul in the Margate suburb of Cliftonville, which would make it his last known commission), practising first from Brenchley, then from Tunbridge Wells and finally from London, although he retained the appellation ‘Wheeler of Tunbridge Wells’. He was active chiefly in Kent and seems to have developed a line in ecclesiastical work. None of the restorations identified so far (St Nicholas, Otham in 1864-1865 and the tower of St George in Wrotham in 1876) is of especial interest, but some of the new churches are rather characterful. For the most part, these are relatively modest buildings. In 1863, Wheeler produced a design for the chapel of what was originally established in 1836 as Tonbridge Workhouse (subsequently Pembury Hospital). Though the site was cleared for wholesale reconstruction in 2011, the chapel survives. It is a robust piece of a design in a High Victorian idiom already more strident and vigorous than the Faversham Almshouses. Very compactly massed, the chancel (flanked by separate entrances for male and female paupers) projects only a short distance out of the main volume and the aisles are gathered in under catslide roofs. All external mouldings – dripstones, string courses, corbels and sills – are dispensed with, underscoring the effect of an indivisible mass. The east window reads as a series of foiled openings punched through the wall surface, not articulated into a unified composition by jambs, mullions and an arch – a favourite device of roguish architects of the 1860s. Internally, the nave and aisles are separated by arcades of three wide bays, the arches vividly striped and supported on stout columns of polished red granite with spreading foliate capitals, making this an unusually elaborate example of a building type whose architecture was usually every bit as austere as the ethos of the institutions they served.
The chapel-of-ease of All Saints, Horsmonden in Kent by Robert Wheeler of 1869-1870, pictured when the bell-cote was still intact – date unknown, probably 1960s (Historic England)The west end of the nave and chancel of the chapel-of-ease of All Saints, Horsmonden in Kent when it was still in use – date unknown, probably 1960s (Historic England)
Much of this manner is also in evidence at All Saints in Horsmonden, built in 1869-1870 as a chapel-of-ease to the village church of St Margaret, which is situated a good two miles to the south of the titular population centre. Located on Maidstone Road, it served outlying hamlets and farmsteads in the northern half of the parish. It is a compactly composed mass of stock brick with red brick dressings, here with an apsidal sanctuary. The nave is slightly wider than the chancel, but essentially the building consists of a single volume. There was originally a steeply gabled bellcote over the junction of the nave and chancel, but this was blown down during the Great Hurricane of 1987 and not replaced. Made redundant as an Anglican place of worship in 1970, All Saints then served as a Catholic church until in time becoming surplus to requirements for this purpose too, following which it was converted to a house in 2020. The interior was a satisfying period piece, which demonstrated the cave-like effect beloved of High Victorian architects (often described as ‘speluncar’ in contemporary literature), achieved by fenestrating the building entirely with narrow lancets with deep reveals, those in the apse fitted with richly coloured stained glass by O’Connor and Sons installed shortly after completion. The wall surfaces of red brick with black banding set this off effectively, as they did also the marble colonettes on angel corbels supporting the chancel arch and marble-fronted pulpit, all of which were adorned by the vigorous stiff-leaf carvings typical of the style. The timber fittings were removed for the conversion, but the east end of the nave and the chancel have fortunately been left unsubdivided, allowing the patterned ceiling of the latter to be appreciated.
St Clement’s Church in Leysdown on the Isle of Sheppey by Robert Wheeler of 1874 (demolished c. 1980)View from southwest of St John the Baptist, Swalecliffe, Kent by Robert Wheeler of 1875-1876
St Clement’s in Leysdown on the eastern tip of the Isle of Sheppey of 1874 was a typical mid-Victorian smaller rural church, which replaced an even more modest predecessor of 1753. Externally it seems to have been faced in flint or rubble-coursed Kentish rag (archive photographs are a little difficult to interpret) with brick and stone dressings. There was plate tracery to the nave windows and colonettes supported the three belfry openings. Constructed without adequate foundations, it suffered from structural problems and was eventually demolished in 1980. No images of the interior have yet come to light. St John’s in Swalecliffe of 1875 has a number of points of similarity with St Clement’s, not least a windswept, shoreside location on the outer reaches of the Thames Estuary in what was, until post-war expansion, a lonely and sparsely populated spot. It also stood on the site of an older predecessor. The most effective design feature of the exterior is the rectangular bellcote mounted on a truncated pyramid straddling the west end of the nave. Though it is a modest and simple building, there is a good deal of enjoyment to be had from the varied palette of materials and detailing, much of it quite literally the stock-in-trade of a mid-Victorian contractor, such as the varied shapes and colours of the tiles and slates. Happily, this was little eroded in the 20th century.
Artist’s impression of St John the Baptist, Swalecliffe, presumably produced around the time that construction started and based on a presentation drawing from Robert Wheeler’s office General view looking east of the interior of St John the Baptist, Swalecliffe, Kent
As at Horsmonden, the interior is faced in red brick with black banding and, again as with that church, embellishment is reserved for the marble-faced pulpit and attached columns borne on corbels (here geometrical rather than figurative) supporting the chancel arch. The chancel roof is ceiled with panelling that has been stencilled with a repeated designs on a coloured ground. This exhausts the original decorative scheme and later enrichment has gone little beyond it. St Lawrence’s in the tiny village of the same name on the Dengie Peninsula in Essex, built in 1878, is another towerless, two-cell church. Externally, there are greater pretensions to grandeur in the use of Perpendicular Gothic tracery and dressed ragstone for the facing, while the fine octagonal bell turret is a good landmark in this flat, open country. The interior is decent and carefully detailed but plain, the only noteworthy feature being the panelling in the sanctuary incorporating Decalogue boards, an old-fashioned feature for the date.
Interior of the nave and sanctuary added to St Paul’s, Ramsgate in 1886-1887: Robert Wheeler’s original mission church of 1873-1874 is the area behind the arcade to the left. (Postcard, author’s collection)Plan of St Paul’s, Ramsgate as it appeared following the enlargement of 1886-1887: King Street is to the right, while Sussex Street is to the top. Adjacent properties are shaded grey. (Lambeth Palace Library)
Only one urban church by Wheeler has so far been identified and that was St Paul’s in Ramsgate. It was established by curates from St George’s, the grand parish church built in the 1820s to serve the resort town that began to grow up by the harbour in the late 18th century. More churches appeared in the town during the course of the following decades, but religious life at places of worship that saw themselves as ministering to a smart watering place alienated the impoverished locale of King Street, which stayed away. A mission church was established and a site acquired in early 1873. The foundation stone was laid in November of that year and the building opened for worship the following May. Wheeler provided a modest building, 69ft (21m) in length and 30ft (9.1m) in width, faced in red brick with black banding internally and white brick with stone dressings externally. It had a south aisle, but there can have been little opportunity for architectural expression since the site was hemmed in on two sides by existing properties and only the east wall was fully exposed to view. An archive photograph suggests that this had twin two-light windows of plate tracery.
The bell tower of St Paul’s Church on Sussex Street, taken during demolition in 1959
The population of the neighbourhood grew and, with it, the congregation, making it necessary to enlarge the building. The existing nave would be retained and incorporated into a new structure, of which it would form the north aisle. Work began in July 1886 and the remodelled church was consecrated in January the following year, three months before St Paul’s became a parish in its own right. More research is needed to establish the authorship of the second phase: the ground plan in the collection of the Incorporated Church Building Society is signed by Henry Hinds (1834-1924), a local surveyor, but this may not be conclusive proof. Much of the design of the new nave and chancel had affinities with Wheeler’s work elsewhere. Then again, by the mid-1880s many of these devices were well established in the architectural vocabulary of the period and producing a passable imitation of the manner would have required no special skill. Two of the red granite columns from the old south arcade were saved and incorporated into the new baptistry. Conceivably other features, such as the south aisle windows (there were two tiers of fenestration in the south wall of the enlarged church), were salvaged and reset in order to cut costs.
The east elevation to King Street of St Paul’s in Ramsgate: the smaller, narrower section to the right of the apse corresponds to Wheeler’s original mission church of 1873-1874.
The most distinctive features of the remodelled St Paul’s were the porch tower, squeezed in between two adjacent properties on Sussex Street and linked to the north aisle by a vestibule, and the apse. The latter was a curious design, following the segment of a curve rather than a full semi-circle like a bow window, perhaps a contingency forced on the architect by the limited space available on this constricted urban site. Following the Dunkirk Evacuation in 1940, St Paul’s was closed amid fears of an imminent German invasion. Bombing raids later that same year destroyed numerous houses in the parish, including several in close proximity. The church itself was largely undamaged, however, and it was hoped that it would be able to reopen after the cessation of hostilities. But much of the congregation had now been scattered and reputedly the measure was strongly resisted by the then-rector of Holy Trinity (located a short distance away and also very Anglo-Catholic in its churchmanship), who feared that St Paul’s would lure away his own congregation. The building remained shut and eventually in 1958 the parish was subsumed back into St George’s. St Paul’s was demolished the following year.
What Wheeler did next: Harvey Grammar School
The former building of the Harvey Grammar School in Folkestone by Robert Wheeler of 1881-1882 as it appears today.
Intermittently engaging though all these churches can be, it is difficult to recognise in them – insofar as any meaningful and objective comparison is possible – an architect operating at the same level of inspiration as the Wheeler who had collaborated with Hooker on the Faversham Almshouses. Was the panache of that design entirely the contribution of his former partner? Another work of the 1880s suggests that it may not have been. Dr William Harvey (1578-1657), discoverer of the circulation of blood, bequeathed £200 to his native Folkestone ‘to be bestowed by the advice of the Mayor thereof and my Executor for the best use of the poore’. It seems that his younger brother, Eliab Harvey the Elder (1590-1661), who acted as executor, interpreted the establishment of a grammar school as a worthy use for the bequest. But nothing was done until 1671, when a site was purchased on Rendezvous Street, by which time Eliab Harvey the Younger (1635-1699) had taken charge of affairs. The foundation deed is dated March 1674. For this and all the information that follows, I am indebted to A History of the Harvey Grammar School by the Rev’d J. Howard Brown (1962).
Attic (top), first floor (middle) and ground floor/basement plans (above) of Robert Wheeler’s building for Harvey Grammar School of 1881-1882
By the middle of the 19th century, the original building was in a poor state of repair and in 1845-1846 it was taken down and replaced by new premises on the same site. These were jerry-built and, in any case, quickly turned out to be inadequate in capacity for a town whose population was growing rapidly during a period when it had gained a rail connection and was fast developing as a bathing resort. In late 1877, the school’s trustees resolved to approach the agent of Lord Radnor, the principal local landowner, for a new site. They managed to secure one on Foord Road, a little to the north of the medieval centre of the town, on land which at that point was occupied by nursery gardens. Initially they intended to commission the design from one William King of Ashford, but in late 1880 changed their minds and instead approached Wheeler. Construction began in mid-1881 and the school opened on 31st July the following year. The plan followed the usual configuration in having teaching and residential accommodation under one roof. There was a large principal schoolroom, 50ft by 25ft (15.2m x 7.6m) in size and intended to accommodate 150 boys, with two smaller ones opening off it to the side. At the east end this was adjoined by residential accommodation for the Master and Assistant Master, although with a sick bay and dormitories for the boys in the attic.
Perspective view from south, reputedly produced in Robert Wheeler’s office, of the new building for the Harvey Grammar School: this view would be impossible to obtain today because of the neighbouring buildings.
The site was a difficult one, sloping steeply from west to east (which perhaps explains why the Earl of Radnor’s agent had been willing to make it available at well below market price), but Wheeler turned this to good effect with his deft planning and massing. The residential portion was positioned at the lower end of the site with the schoolroom behind, raised up on a basement and communicating with it at first-floor level. The building was asymmetrically composed to dramatic and picturesque effect, and over the porch to the schoolroom rose a tower with a tall hipped roof – far larger than it realistically needed to be for the single bell used to summon the boys to lessons, but an effective vertical accent that gave the school presence in the townscape. Aspects of the design of the residential portion, such as the tile-hung upper storeys and dummy half-timbering, show that Wheeler had absorbed the influence of the vernacular revival initiated by Shaw and Nesfield. But the manner of the bell tower was still patently High Victorian and the busily variegated colours and textures of the wall and roof surfaces reflected preoccupations of two decades earlier.
Robert Wheeler’s building for the Harvey Grammar School pictured soon after completion: it will soon disappear behind the houses on Copthall Gardens in the foreground, which are in the process of construction. Note in the background William Cubitt’s viaduct of 1842-1843, which carries the railway from Dover to Folkestone across Foord Valley.
The site proved to be not just inconvenient, but ultimately the building’s undoing. The town’s population continued to expand and, once again, the institution began to outgrow its premises. By the end of the 19th century, all the surrounding nursery gardens had disappeared under residential streets of semi-detached villas and the school was hemmed in on all sides with no room to expand. In 1913 it moved out to a new campus near Folkestone West station and Wheeler’s building became a clinic, remaining in medical use until it was sold for residential conversion. Despite having spent most of its life serving functions other than those for which it was designed, the fabric survives well, with little erosion of the detailing.
Conclusion
St Lawrence’s Church in the village of St Lawrence on the Dengie Peninsula in Essex of 1878
The aim of this blog is to retrieve from obscurity Victorian architecture which has been overlooked or forgotten. Most of what Wheeler and Hooker designed might justifiably be placed in this category. But any claims of unjust neglect need to be interrogated. Why should certain architects have such little name recognition? Why should a whole life’s work be known only to a handful of cognoscenti? In the case of practitioners such as R.J. Withers, the answer lies in the geographical distribution of their output. They built mainly in scattered or little frequented locations and it takes time, effort and mileage to build up a sufficiently full picture of their work for one to begin to draw conclusions about its quality and significance. With others, such as T.E. Knightley, ill fortune is to blame. They have been cheated of the recognition by accident, war and wanton destruction, which have robbed us of works that ought firmly to have established their reputation. But in the case of Wheeler and Hooker, we are dealing with architects who fall into a very different category. What by any standards is a notable and indeed very visible work survives to testify to real talent and ability. But that forces one to ask whether the remainder of their output equals or falls short of it in architectural quality.
The west residential wing of Faversham Almshouses
The buildings presented here can hardly represent an exhaustive survey of the either man’s life and work and thus this post raises numerous questions. What else did Hooker and Wheeler design while they were still in partnership? Which of the two was the chief source of inspiration for the design of the Faversham Almshouses? Why was the partnership so short-lived? What did Hooker go on to build after the dissolution of the partnership and was it very different? Did Wheeler design anything other than churches and schools? Are the surviving works wholly characteristic of his style, or are there buildings waiting to be discovered – including lost major works – that might change our perspective on him? Certainly the two architects deserve a comprehensive study, but I cannot help wondering how fruitful pursuing any of these lines of inquiry might be in advancing our understanding of them. Many of the buildings that we have seen are best understood as good period pieces. They are wholly characteristic of their date and, indeed, wholly characteristic of their designer, but significant in a local rather than a national context.
The church of St Paul’s, Cliftonville in Margate by R.K. Blessley of Eastbourne ( 1873-1874): Wheeler oversaw the completion of the building in the 1880s and was probably responsible for the tower.
None of this should be interpreted as a slight. The further in time we regress from our own period, sometimes the less exacting the critical standards we apply to architecture, whereas in the case of something as arresting as the Faversham Almshouses – the product of an age that is well documented and where the architectural historian is less often thrown back on conjecture and speculation – we feel entitled to judge it by more exacting standards. Yet not every Victorian building is the work of a William Burges or a Norman Shaw, just as not every Stuart building is the work of a Christopher Wren, or every Georgian building that of a Robert Adam. The histories presented in this blog are as much histories of place, personalities and circumstance as they are of construction and design. The trustees of Wreight’s legacy could have selected as winner any one of a number of entrants to the competition for the new almshouses, but they chose Hooker and Wheeler. Faversham is fortunate to be able to boast such a magnificent statement of High Victorianism, but Hooker and Wheeler were equally fortunate that an opportunity presented itself that played to their strengths and gave them a chance to show their mettle. They were the right men for the right job at the right time, and perhaps it is that, rather than any attempt to account for unrecognised genius, that ultimately is the key to understanding their legacy.
Tiled panel in the chapel of Faversham Almshouses with a roundel bearing the symbol of St John the Evangelist
The interior of the hall at Columbia Market, pictured shortly before its demolition (Historic England)
The name of the architect may not stick in the memory; his greatest work most certainly will. Like many people, I learned about the Columbia Market in Bethnal Green and its tragic fate thanks to Hermione Hobhouse’s Lost London. Somewhere in my mid-teens, I discovered the book in the reference room of Kingston-upon-Thames public library and the grimly atmospheric black and white photographs of this enormous Gothic pile stopped me in my tracks. The image of the main hall – abandoned, forlorn and awaiting the arrival of the demolition men – is the sort of thing that stays with one for a long time. That architecture of such quality and grandeur could have been wantonly destroyed seemed incomprehensible and I mourn its loss bitterly. Had it survived, it would undoubtedly be one of the sights of London.
Holly Village in Highgate – the view from the entrance arch
But though the building was unforgettable, the name of the architect barely registered and it was many years before I began to wonder who he was, what else he had designed and whether any of it was of comparable interest. The results of my initial half-hearted stab at research were not promising. Little by Darbishire was to be found on the National Heritage List for England and, with the sole exception of Holly Village in Highgate, nothing remotely as arresting. There were no other lost masterpieces. He turned out to have designed the ubiquitous Peabody Housing complexes in central London, but it was hard to credit that the begetter of an astonishing flight of high Romantic extravagance could have been responsible for something so pedestrian. Was I to conclude that the Columbia Market had been a fluke? I forgot about him again until, thanks to a contributor to a Facebook group on lost churches of London, I came across an image of the New Gravel Pit Chapel in Hackney. This was unmistakably the work of the same architect and my interest was rekindled.
The New Gravel Pit Chapel on Paradise Place in Hackney, pictured in 1880. Its predecessor of 1809-1810 was so poorly constructed that by the mid-1850s it was deemed to be beyond economical repair. A competition was held in 1856, where Darbishire’s entry – submitted anonymously under the motto ‘Difficilia quae pulchrae’ (Difficult are the things that are beautiful) emerged as the victor. Construction began in 1857 and the chapel opened in March 1858. The spire crowned a tower housing a staircase, which gave access to a west gallery with seating for 50 children. Darbishire’s competition design included two spires to create a symmetrical façade, but the second one was omitted in execution. Total capacity was 500. By the 20th century, the church was far bigger than required by a much diminished congregation, uncomfortable and in an increasingly poor state of repair. The last service was held in 1966 and it was demolished to make way for housing in 1969. (Hackney Archives)This cross-section of the nave of the New Gravel Pit Chapel published in Henry Laxton’s Examples of Building Construction (London, 1858) is the only representation of the interior so far to have been discovered. It is clear from this, together with a report that appeared in The Building News of 26th June 1857, that it must have had a good deal in common with that of St James’s, Moore Park Road, pictured below. Cast iron piers bore a timber arcade, which in turn supported the wall plates of the nave roof, whose trusses were braced by transverse wooden arches. The Building News also reported that the chancel was to be floored with Minton tiles and to have an arcaded reredos with a picture of The Last Supper in the centre. A report in The Builder of 27th March 1858 stated that ‘The pulpit and the organ are traceried, and very ornamental’. (Hackney Archives)
This post represents a first attempt at an overview of Darbishire’s life and work. But he remains an obscure figure and even in authoritative reference works his dates of birth and death are not given. Thanks to the data from censuses and parish registers that has been made available on-line in recent years, we can at least fill those lacunae. Henry Astley Darbishire was born on 15th May 1825 in Chorlton-on-Matlock, Lancashire, and was the son of James Darbishire (1792-1836), a native of Bolton-le-Moors in the same county. For the moment, we know nothing about his training and early career, but his professional standing was high enough for such luminaries as Charles Robert Cockerell, Thomas Leverton Donaldson and Thomas Henry Wyatt to be persuaded to act as his proposers when he applied to be a Fellow of the RIBA in December 1856. Or was he simply a clever networker and canny self-promoter? We cannot know, but more than one architectural historian has been baffled that he should have been chosen by Baroness Burdett-Coutts to give form to her philanthropic ventures. When their collaboration began, he was an obscure figure, who had yet to achieve prominence in any field. Only three buildings from the early part of his career have so far been discovered – Guardsmen’s Lodgings on Francis Street in Westminster (1853-1854, demolished 1959) the rectory at Navenby in Lincolnshire, built in 1857, and New Gravel Pit Unitarian Chapel on Chatham Place in Hackney, built the same year. Though the spidery gothic of the last of these, especially the bell turret, evidences an idiosyncratic hand, neither suggests a particular aptitude for the sort of commissions that he would go on to produce.
The east-facing entrance front of Navenby Rectory, Lincolnshire (1857): this elevation was subsequently much altered when the central section was modified to incorporate a staircase hall, in the process losing the catslide roof with the distinctive triangular dormers, and the flank elevation of the cross-wing to the left was extended. (Navenby History Group)
Darbishire and Burdett Coutts
The emergence of Angela Burdett-Coutts (1814-1906) as one of the most prominent philanthropists in Victorian England was conditioned by her background. Her father was Sir Francis Burdett, fifth baronet (1770-1844), who in the earlier part of his parliamentary career had been a radical firebrand, championing numerous reformist causes. Among other things, he had been a supporter of George Birkbeck’s London Mechanics’ Institute, founded in 1823. Her mother Sophia (1775-1844) was the youngest daughter of Thomas Coutts (1735-1822), whose father had established the banking house that survives to this day. Angela was brought up in a house on St James’s Square in Westminster, which was much frequented by politicians, scientists and writers, including Charles Dickens, with whom she struck up a lasting friendship. The first wife of Thomas Coutts died in 1815 and the same year he married the actress Harriot Mellon (?1777-1837). She was much younger than her husband, her motives were suspected and the resulting acrimony with his daughters led Coutts to make her the sole beneficiary of his fortune. Nevertheless, in due course Harriot settled upon Angela as sole heir to the residue of the estate (two houses and an annual income of £10,000 were bequeathed to her second husband, the Duke of St Albans), something which only came to light on her death.
Angela Burdett-Coutts, portrait of c. 1840 by an anonymous artist (National Portrait Gallery)
The young Burdett-Coutts showed great independence of mind and had a powerful social conscience, shaped by her father’s views and shock at the urban poverty portrayed in Dickens’ novels. It was he who drew her attention to the ragged schools for the poor, which she began to support in 1844. In 1847 the two of them founded Urania Cottage in Shepherd’s Bush as a refuge for homeless women, many of whom had been prostitutes. Around 1851 she conceived the idea of building a complex of model housing in Nova Scotia Gardens in Bethnal Green, a location deliberately chosen for being the most infamous slum in an already notorious area. It seems that she initially had in mind a model village and approached Philip Hardwick (1792-1870) for a design. This changed after she visited at Dickens’ instigation one of the complexes of model dwellings in central London designed by Henry Roberts (1803-1876) for the Society for Improving the Conditions of the Labouring Classes. Dickens was convinced that apartment blocks – at that date, a novel form of housing in England – represented a more economical use of land and would be easier to maintain and equip with proper services. His thinking seems to have been influenced by his brother-in-law Henry Austin, (?1812-1861) an architect and civil engineer who had witnessed first-hand the wretched living conditions in the East End while engaged on the construction of the Blackwall Railway for Robert Stephenson. He was convinced that better sanitation, enforced through improved legislation, was the key to improving them.
The exterior to Streatham and Dyott Streets of Parnell House
In her biography of Burdett-Coutts, Lady Unknown, Edna Healey suggests that Dickens, unimpressed by Hardwick’s dilatoriness, dismissed him from the project, but how the introduction to Darbishire came about is currently unknown. Perhaps it was the very lack of an established client base and full order book that made him well placed to collaborate with Burdett-Coutts on her own terms, but this for the moment is speculation. However, it needs to be stressed that she was no ingénue where architectural matters were concerned. A generous and enthusiastic patron of the Established Church, she founded several new parishes and commissioned a number of important church buildings from prominent architects: the Puginian St Stephen’s, Rochester Row in Westminster (1847-1850) by Benjamin Ferrey (1810-1880) and the muscular Gothic St John’s in Limehouse, east London (1853, demolished after war damage) by Henry Clutton (1819-1893) deserve special mention. Hardwick’s St John’s in Deptford (1854) was less adventurous, being a typical middle-pointed suburban church.
The inner courtyard of Streatham Street Buildings in Bloomsbury (now known as Parnell House) by Henry Roberts, built in 1849 for the Society for Improving the Condition of the Labouring Classes: note the external walkways giving access to the dwellings on each floor. (Historic England)
Darbishire in the service of Burdett-Coutts
Columbia Square, the model housing complex for Bethnal Green, went up on a site located a short distance to the northeast of Shoreditch High Street on a thoroughfare then known as Crab Tree Row (later renamed Columbia Road). It took the form of four elongated five-storey blocks arranged around a central courtyard. The first to be completed was the east block, which opened in April 1859, followed by the west block in July 1860, the north block in 1861 and the south block in early 1862. They provided a total of 183 dwellings – mostly two-room sets consisting of a living room with a boiler, range and oven, and a bedroom, although single rooms and three-room sets were also available. Each floor was based on a corridor plan, while vertical access was afforded by staircases whose wells and landings were open to the outside. At a time when disease was still widely believed to be spread by miasmas, allowing as much fresh air and sunlight as possible to penetrate to the core of the building was regarded as essential.
A view of one of the accommodation blocks at Columbia Square pictured in The Illustrated London News of 8th March 1862
The blocks were equipped with gas and water and there were dust chutes for disposing of refuse. The top floor was occupied by a laundry and drying space, and there was also a reading room, where, The Illustrated London News reported in its issue of 8th March 1862, divine service was held on Sundays. This is a little surprising in view of the proximity of the church of St Thomas, which adjoined the site immediately to the north. It predated Columbia Square, having been founded as part of an ambitious building programme in the 1840s by the then-Bishop of London Charles Blomfield (1786-1857), an early charitable initiative in the East End aimed at expanding the mission of the Established Church. There were resident porters and a superintendent, who saw to it that the residents took turns to clean the communal spaces, collected rent on a weekly basis and enforced good behaviour. ‘Drunken or disorderly tenants receive immediate notice to quit’, The Illustrated London News informed its readers, noting that ‘all the sets of rooms are at present occupied and… fifty applications are on the books’.
The clock tower at Columbia Square as illustrated in The Builder of 3rd January 1863Columbia Square, as sketched by Geoffrey Fletcher for The London Nobody Knows, first published in 1962. By this date Columbia Market had already been demolished and Columbia Square would soon follow it into oblivion. ‘Columbia Square must have been depressing when new; today it is of appallingly melancholy aspect’, wrote Fletcher. ‘In this huge open space, the sun seems to burn up the yellowing grass and ragwort. The sun’s rays are reflected back from the innumerable pieces of broken glass, and the square is deserted and silent apart from a few dead-end kids and the chimes of the choc-ice man. The tenements are now almost empty. Window are gaping and sightless and the wooden Gothic pinnacles of the attic story are decaying and broken…’ Note the stump to which the clock tower had been reduced by this point. Fletcher records that it bore the inscription, ‘As every thread of Gold is valuable So is every minute of Time’.
The buildings were constructed of brick and essentially classical in their composition, with symmetrical front and rear elevations, a cornice to mark off the attic storey and even rustication to the ground floor. But much of the fenestration had pointed arches, as did the four storey-high recess in the centre of each of the inward-facing facades, and this was complemented on the top floor by a multitude of steeply pitched dormer windows and gables, as well as sparingly deployed Gothic tracery, to give the blocks a vivid skyline. At least one of them seems to have had a centrally-placed flèche. This did not save the inner courtyard from dourness and to relieve it, as a finishing touch a clock tower was put up in the centre, handled in Decorated Gothic forms that seem to have taken their cue from the Eleanor Crosses. It was as abundant in its ornamentation as the elevations that overlooked it were parsimonious. Rising to 35ft (10.7m) in height, it was built of Aubigny stone.
The Victoria Park fountain of 1862The Victoria Park fountain: the vaulting of the octagonal arcade, showing also one of the inlaid monograms of Burdett-Coutts and the scalloped head of one of the figure niches
That same year, Darbishire was commissioned to design another ornate Gothic centrepiece when Burdett-Coutts gifted a drinking fountain to nearby Victoria Park. At a time when many supplies of drinking water to the surrounding area were dangerously polluted, this was far more than an amenity for pleasure-seekers, and indeed the whole park had been conceived with a serious purpose in mind. It was first mooted in 1839 when the disastrous consequences of the overpopulation of the East End were already becoming far too clear. It was hoped that the space and fresh air would serve as an antidote to the surrounding squalor and help to bring down the soaring mortality rate. A petition to Queen Victoria in 1840 brought about an Act of Parliament the following year, and a plan was drawn up by James Pennethorne (1801-1871), with planting by Samuel Curtis (1779-1860). The park was formally opened in 1845 and achieved instant popularity, being well frequented even before construction works were completed.
The Victoria Park fountain: detail of the plinth and of the sculptures from which water was formerly dispensedDoor to the inner service space of the Victoria Park fountain inscribed with the first verse of Psalm 24, ‘The earth is the Lord’s, and all that therein is’, and bearing a much eroded representation of the coat of arms of Angela Burdett-Coutts on the tympanum.
The site chosen for the fountain was a prominent location more or less in the centre of the park, intercepting a route running across it from the Gunmaker’s Gate on the Bow side to the Royal Gate West in South Hackney. It was a lavish commission, which cost over £7,000, and Darbishire’s design made a show of the benefactor’s munificence. Rising to slightly over 58ft (17.7m) in height, it was designed as an octagonal pavilion, with a central pillar encircled by an arcade, each bay of which has a quadripartite rib vault. Polished red granite was used for the piers of the arcade and the shafts from which the vaults spring on the inner side. There is much inlaid decoration, including an inscription recording Burdett-Coutts’ gift and her monogram in several places.
Columbia Market from southwest: the timber-built single-storey building fronting Columbia Road in the foreground and adjacent gate piers are the only things visible in this picture to have survived to the 21st century (Historic England)Columbia Square and Columbia Market on the 1:1,056 scale Ordnance Survey map of 1875-1876 – note that Columbia Street is still labelled Crab Tree Row. The church of St Thomas predated the grand building programme of Burdett-Coutts, having been constructed in 1849-1850 to a design in an Early English style by Lewis Vulliamy (1791-1871). It was also the first part of the quarter to be lost: following war damage, it was demolished in 1954.
Stylistically, the fountain is hard to pin down. The chunky proportions and profiles of the arcade unmistakably embody High Victorian ‘vigour and go’, but the richly ornamental Decorated Gothic detailing of the central pillar is almost fey, while the flattened hairbell profile of the dome is thoroughly baroque. The last incorporates dormers in the form of ornamental cartouches, alternately glazed and filled with clock faces, decidedly under-proportioned for their purpose and relative to the structure as a whole. Baroque also are the scalloped niches on alternate faces of the central pillar and the marble figures of putti with porpoises that they contain. Darbishire reputedly designed other structures for Victoria Park, but what and where they were is not currently known.
Columbia Market – the main entrance with the superintendent’s accommodation and office above the roadway: note the arcades either side, which were formerly intended for covered stalls, but bricked up in the 20th century. (Historic England)
Two years later, Burdett-Coutts embarked on an even more ambitious scheme of urban improvement. Conditions in many of the food markets of the East End were thoroughly unhygienic and the situation was made worse by the extortionate rents changed for pitches by the owners, who took advantage of their monopoly, and police regulations aimed at driving costermongers off the streets. She resolved to establish a covered market where traders could ply their wares in properly organised, sanitary conditions for fair overheads. The early history of the venture is not quite clear, since although 1864 is usually given as the date of inception, it was not until 1866 that the necessary Act of Parliament was passed. However, in its issue of 27th October that same year, The Builder could report that ‘The market is now growing into shape’, which suggests that construction had begun a good deal earlier.
The outward-facing elevation of one of the blocks enclosing the main quadrangle to east and west as illustrated in The Builder of 27th October 1866 Georgina Gardens on the east side of the main quadrangle (Historic England)The interior of the market hall as pictured in The Builder of 20th February 1869
Columbia Market, as the project was named, was an ambitious undertaking in every respect. The site chosen for it was located on Columbia Road, which was to be widened to cater for the increased traffic, and it adjoined Columbia Square on its eastern side. The complex took the form of a huge quadrangle, 285ft (86.9m) wide and 255ft (77.7m) deep, which was axially planned. The main entrance was on Columbia Road through a huge gatehouse placed centrally and positioned right on the streetline, which housed offices and living accommodation for the superintendent above the vehicle entrance. Either side of it were colonnades for covered stalls. Aligned with the gatehouse was the main market hall, 104ft (31.7m) long and 50ft (15.2m) wide, with a tall clock tower rising above its main entrance. The imposing internal space rose to 56ft (17m) and was covered by a wooden vault resting on clustered piers of polished grey and red granite. It housed 24 butchers’ stalls on the ground floor with galleries above in the ‘aisles’ for the sale of flowers, fruit and vegetables. Beyond it to the north, a strip fronting Baroness Road equal in area roughly to a quarter of the site was laid out as a yard where deliveries could be unloaded.
The elevation to the main quadrangle and clock tower of the market hall at Columbia Market (Historic England)The north side of the market hall and yard for delivery vehicles as pictured in the illustration accompanying the report on the ceremonial opening of Columbia Market in The Builder of 1st May 1869
To the west and east, the market square was enclosed by blocks named Angela Gardens and Georgina Gardens respectively. These housed shops on the ground floor facing into the market square, all linked by a covered walkway, and provided residential accommodation on the floors above which The Builder reported was intended for ‘clerks and others employed in the city’. It was appointed to a standard above that in Columbia Square. The two residential blocks were symmetrically composed about central gateways rising to towers above that housed water tanks. Three-storey ranges extended out from either side, terminating in four-storey pavilions. The central market square was to be planted out with trees and in the centre was an ornamental fountain.
The entrance block at Holly Village facing the junction of Swains Lane with Chester Road: sculptures above the main arch (one of them hidden here by a tree) depict Angela Burdett-Coutts and her former governess and companion Hannah Brown.Satellite view of Holly Village from Google Earth: north is to the left
The brickwork incorporated constructional polychromy and was tricked out in stone and terracotta dressings. Contemporary reports describe the style as ‘Domestic Gothic’, but Darbishire’s treatment of the Middle-Pointed idiom was not uniform. The interior of the main market hall had clearly been informed by careful study of English Geometrical Decorated Gothic of the late 13th century and had a distinctly ecclesiastical air. But elsewhere Darbishire’s Gothic was of a wilful, decidedly roguish bent, such as the extraordinary forms of the first-floor windows above the main vehicle entrance. Though much of the complex was essentially classical architecture in fancy dress, Darbishire’s powerful imagination lent it maximum visual interest by moulding the forms into keeps, gatehouses, turrets and cloister arms, with each elevation articulated into an endless series of advancing and receding planes. This reached its apogee in the thrilling skyline of gables, dormers, pinnacles, cupolas and spires. From a distance, the complex resembled a small city and within, the market square had the air of a Flemish Grand Place with its own belfry and cloth hall. ‘No verbal description could convey the strangeness and unlikelihood of it all’, wrote Geoffrey Fletcher of Columbia Market in The London Nobody Knows.
The east side of Holly Village, viewed from within the central courtyardThe north side of Holly Village, showing the inward-facing elevation of the entrance block illustrated above
The market was ceremonially opened amid much pomp on 28th April 1869, having cost over £200,000 to build. But it was disastrously misconceived in several different regards and Burdett-Coutts’ good intentions misfired. Local businessmen opposed the scheme and prevented wholesalers from supplying the market. In the interests of religious propriety, Sunday trading was prohibited; in fact, this was one of the mainstays of the local economy. The venture quickly failed and by the end of 1869, Burdett-Coutts had been forced to concede defeat. In February 1870 Columbia reopened as a fish market, but it could not hold its own against Billingsgate and again failed. The following year, the site was handed over to the Corporation of London, but as far as that body was concerned it was a white elephant and the complex was returned to Burdett-Coutts in December 1874. Undeterred, she reopened it the following year under an arrangement with three of the largest railway companies, but opposition, notably from Billingsgate fish market, was again too strong. After an unsuccessful attempt at a Columbia Meat Market in 1879, a more ambitious attempt at reinventing the enterprise, this time as the London Fish Market and National Fishery Company, was begun in 1881, which involved obtaining an Act of Parliament to connect the site to the railway network. The scheme foundered and went into liquidation in 1884. The following year, Columbia Market ceased trading for good. In 1915 the site was purchased by the London County Council, which rented it out as warehouse space and accommodation for light industry. No new use which might have brought the complex into its own ever emerged, and between 1958 and 1966 both the market and Columbia Square were cleared for the construction of a new housing complex.
Villa on the east side of Holly Village
But though Columbia Market proved to be ill-starred, the working relationship of Burdett-Coutts with Darbishire flourished and she commissioned another complex of model housing from him, this time aimed at a very different demographic. In 1849 she had taken up residence at Holly Lodge, the house on the southern edge of Highgate Village in then-rural Middlesex that Thomas Coutts had bought for Harriot Mellon back in 1808. Its extensive grounds occupied all of the area between West Hill and Swain’s Lane, where they bordered Highgate Cemetery, one of the Magnificent Seven. Around 1865, Burdett-Coutts embarked on a project to put up a model village on a triangular site at the junction of Swains Lane and Chester Road, just beyond the southern tip of the east cemetery. Whether this was a philanthropic or commercial venture is not entirely clear: reputedly the housing was originally intended for workers on the Holly Lodge Estate and clerks of Coutts Bank, but the rents charged on the properties were such that they were effectively excluded from the outset. After Burdett-Coutts died, her husband sought to dispose of the estate and in 1921, just before it was finally sold off for residential redevelopment, Holly Village was purchased by its tenants.
The exterior of St James, Moore Park Road in Fulham (Historic England)
Holy Village is a planned settlement of cottages ornés and, as such, stands in a line of development that begins with John Nash’s Blaise Hamlet (originally in Gloucestershire, now on the outskirts of Bristol). Much about it is Georgian rather than Victorian in spirit, and it has been suggested that it was conceived, like so much 18th and early 19th century estate architecture, as an eye-catcher to enhance views from Holly Lodge. The houses, a mixture of villas and semi-detached cottages, are disposed around a central green in a more or less symmetrical layout. The axial nature of the plan is most apparent at the entrance to the site, but thereafter, the architecture fights hard against the regularity, which can only be appreciated in maps or from the air – at no point can the entire complex be taken in with a single glance. The interrelations of the buildings change constantly as one walks around the site and in almost every view wilful asymmetry predominates. The architecture is a curious mix of Georgian Gothick in all its winsomeness with the hardness and vigour of High Victorianism. The finicky detailing is familiar from Columbia Market and plays odd games with scale – some elements, such as the pinnacles and spires, look like monumental devices that have been drastically shrunk, yet in photographs the effect can be to lead the viewer to imagine that the buildings are far more grandly scaled than is the case in real life. Many of the elements are part of the currency of Georgian Gothick – offset towers, overscaled eaves and bargeboards, fiddly and very clearly dummy half-timbering, and judiciously irregular massing.
The interior looking east towards Ewan Christian’s later apse of St James, Moore Park Road in Fulham (Historic England)
The church-building activity of Burdett-Coutts has been mentioned above. Though apparently discerning in her tastes, she worked with a range of architects and no distinct preferences emerge. In 1867, she finally decided to approach Darbishire, who was engaged to design St James’s on Moore Park Road in Fulham, at that point a rapidly growing new suburb. The foundation stone was laid on 20th June 1867 and work proceeded quickly – the church was consecrated in December of the same year. Darbishire appears to have had little interest in ecclesiastical architecture and it is perhaps this that accounts for the unusual and original design. Only the outer walls were built of brick. The piers of the arcade seem to have been of stone, but instead of supporting a masonry superstructure, they bore enormous collar-beam trusses. The roof structure was strengthened laterally by arched braces and longitudinally by a timber arcade, rising to a purlin which was met by the less steeply pitched lean-to roofs of the arcades. The form of the building, which suggests a more than passing acquaintance with medieval timber barns, was a resourceful way of economising on the amount of wet construction. The original configuration of the church is not entirely clear: the apsidal chancel was a later addition of 1874 by Ewan Christian, while the dormers – essential given the low aisle walls and consequently small windows – were evidently unequal to the task as designed and had to be enlarged in 1906. The church was badly damaged by fire in 1970 and subsequently demolished, but the former vicarage survives, albeit much altered.
The Regent’s Park fountain, as illustrated in The Builder of 20th May 1871
Darbishire’s last known commission for Burdett-Coutts was another drinking fountain, this time in Regent’s Park on the north side of the Outer Circle opposite what was at that point the main entrance to London Zoo. It was illustrated and described at some length in The Builder of 20th May 1871. Its four basins of polished red Aberdeen granite formed a quatrefoil in plan and were supported by (no doubt purely cosmetic) dwarf columns, also of red granite but with capitals of Sicilian marble. The plinth incorporated dog troughs of gun metal and there were also standpipes for watering horses – a reminder that animal welfare was among the many causes that Burdett-Coutts supported. As at Victoria Park, the drinking water was dispensed from the mouths of porpoises and from water jars carried by small boys, all carved in marble. A tabernacle-like structure in the centre supported a tall cast-iron lamp standard, with a large central lantern rising to a height of 24ft (7.3m) surrounded by eight smaller ones. ‘The workmanship throughout is remarkably good’, reported The Builder. ‘The metal work is fine and cleanly cast, and richly gilt; and the granite and marble work is some of the best which has been executed in London’. The fountain disappears from Ordnance Survey maps in the 1950s and not a trace remains today on the site, which is now a car park and has been absorbed into London Zoo.
Darbishire in the service of Peabody
George Peabody, daguerreotype by Southworth and Hawes of c. 1850 (Metropolitan Museum of Art)
The success of Columbia Square seems to have brought Darbishire to the attention of another prominent philanthropist with a particular interest in improving housing conditions. George Peabody (1795-1869) was a native of Massachusetts who built up a successful business based in Baltimore, New York and Philadelphia importing dry goods from Britain. In 1837, following a series of business trips to England, he settled permanently in London, making it the centre of his operations and building up a flourishing trading house. In due course he concentrated his activity on financing his own and then others’ trade, and eventually gave up altogether his interests in commodities to focus on banking and securities. Austere and disciplined in his personal habits, he gave away most of his wealth in philanthropic ventures, resolving latterly to bequeath some kind of charitable institution as a token of gratitude to his adoptive city. Various options, including hospitals and almshouses, were considered before in 1859 the philanthropist and social reformer Lord Shaftesbury (1801-1885) recruited him to the cause of model housing for the working classes.
The Peabody complex at Nos. 135-153 Commercial Street in Spitalfields, London
A trust was formed and in March 1862, The Times announced that Peabody had gifted a sum of £150,000 to benefit ‘the poor and needy of this great city, and to promote their comfort and happiness’. He stipulated three conditions: first, the donation was to benefit Londoners ‘by birth or residence’; second, no religious or political agenda should influence the administration of the gift; and third, beneficiaries should display ‘moral character, and good conduct as a member of society’. The last of these conditions is key to understanding the nature of the venture. The attitudes and thinking that underpinned it are discussed at length in ‘The Depth of the Street’, a superb study of Peabody housing by Irina Davidovici, which was published in the AA Files in 2015. I am indebted to Davidovici for much of the information presented here and refer to her article anyone interested in a detailed account of the subject, so will do no more here than summarise the salient points. In brief, this was housing aimed emphatically at the deserving and industrious poor, who practised a trade, could show themselves capable of holding down a job and earning a steady income. They might be temporarily embarrassed, but a paternalistic helping hand would allow them to recommence their ascent of the social ladder and achieve respectability. But by the same token, those viewed as the indolent poor – in fact, the sick and incapacitated who were the most vulnerable members of society – were excluded from the outset.
The south end of the frontage to Commercial Street of the Spitalfields Peabody complex
A start was not made until 1863, when a site was purchased on the west side of Commercial Street in Spitalfields. Construction was completed in 1864, the same year that Peabody withdrew from business, taking most of his capital with him. The five-storey block went up on an acutely-pointed triangular site at the junction of Commercial and Folgate (formerly White Lion) Streets, and the project was described at some length in The Builder of 1st August 1863. The Commercial Street wing was to incorporate nine shops with attendant dwellings and store-rooms occupying the basement, ground and first floors. This measure, which took advantage of that wing’s location fronting the busier of the two thoroughfares, was intended to provide income to ensure that the rents for the beneficiaries of the Peabody Trust were kept low. The dwellings for the poor were located above the shops on the second and third floors, and were served by a separate entrance – effectively a ‘poor door’ in modern parlance. The Folgate Street wing was entirely occupied by dwellings for the poor. As at Columbia Square, the layout was based on a corridor plan and the topmost floor housed laundries with a drying area, a children’s playground and other communal facilities. The accommodation was reported to comprise three single rooms, 47 two-room sets and 17 three-room sets. The living rooms were 13ft by 10ft (4m by 3m) in size, and equipped with a range, oven, boiler and hot plate, while the bedrooms were 13ft by 8ft (4m by 2.4m). Toilets were shared, one to each pair of families. There were dust shafts for the disposal of rubbish that ran down to dustbins in the basement, a porter’s lodge and a cooperative store.
The frontage to Folgate Street of the Spitalfields Peabody complex
But a little over five months later, when the block was reported to be ‘rapidly approaching completion’ and just two weeks away from receiving its first tenants, the same publication sounded a warning note with an article that appeared under the nom de plume ‘One Who Knows’ in the issue of 23rd January 1864. Though the initiative was sufficiently attractive to be heavily over-subscribed, ‘after a careful inspection, we are forced, somewhat unwillingly, to say that this building will not meet the demands of the poor’. Several shortcomings in the internal layout were singled out for criticism. The long corridors would be inherently draughty and the absence of vestibules, as well as of fireplaces in the bedrooms of the two- and three-room sets, would cause the tenants discomfort and threaten their health. The interiors had been left bare brick and this would render them unattractive to residents, who would struggle to make their accommodation homely – it is worth noting that the terms of the tenancy agreement forbade to personalise their apartments by hanging pictures on the walls. Most seriously, the writer believed the business model of the complex to be fundamentally flawed. While the combination of commercial with residential lets was praised as worth imitating elsewhere, there were evidently doubts that this would achieve the desired aim. The 1863 report had stated that rents ‘will in all cases be lower than those now paid for the over-crowded hovels in the neighbourhood’. But ‘One Who Knows’ feared that letting two-room sets for 4 shillings per week and three-room sets for 5 shillings would frustrate Peabody’s intentions by pricing out the people who needed such accommodation the most, since they could afford no more than 2-3 shillings per week.
View from southwest of the main quadrangle of the Islington Peabody complexSatellite view from Google Earth of the Islington Peabody complex: north is to the top.
Unsurprisingly, the external treatment of the building reflected a certain cost-consciousness, being constructed almost entirely of stock brick with a sparing use of dressings in red brick and stucco to pick out the window heads. As at Columbia Square, the ground- and first-floor elevations had thoroughly classical channelled masonry, and cut and rubbed brick was used for the doorcase in the ‘prow’. Gothic detailing, however, was almost entirely dispensed with, apart from a scattering of pointed arches on the Folgate Street elevation. This, combined with the classicising touches and Dutch gables of the Commercial Street elevation, gave the building an odd, stylistically indeterminate character. The most distinctive feature was the strips of narrow, closely-spaced windows at fourth-floor level, which presumably ventilated the laundry and airing space. The Spitalfields block marked the start of an ambitious programme of construction. Peabody was sufficiently pleased with the initial results of his venture to augment his bequest. He more than tripled his donation over the following years, so that after his death the total capital reached £500,000. It was managed thriftily, the trustees insisting on a 3 percent return on all their investments.
View into the main quadrangle of the Islington Peabody complex: the inner elevation of the east block is shown in the featured photograph at the top of this page.Elevation to Dibden Street of the southernmost block of the Islington Peabody complex
Whether all of the misgivings voiced by ‘One Who Knows’ were borne out in practice is for the moment unclear, but lessons were evidently learned from the Spitalfields block, which incorporates several features that were never repeated. Principally, all the complexes that followed were conceived on a much larger scale and they were generally planned as large, oblong blocks arranged around a central quadrangle. This was a deliberate ploy aimed at avoiding awkward layouts – Darbishire believed that orthogonally planned accommodation was easier to keep clean and cheaper to furnish. But on a site that was irregularly shaped, such as many of those in central locations by their nature were, a neatly set out quadrangle could only be achieved by positioning the main blocks deep within it. This often excluded the possibility of including a street frontage – and, indeed, of the blocks making any contribution to the surrounding cityscape other than through their sheer bulk – which may be why the inclusion of shop units tried at Spitalfields was never repeated.
View of the Shadwell Peabody complex published in The Illustrated London News of 22nd February, 1867: considerable artistic licence was allowed in omitting completely one of the end blocks in order to show better the inner quadrangle.View from Glamis Place of the Shadwell Peabody complex: note the change in the fenestration in the street front of the block placed side-on where the formerly open staircase has been enclosed.
What became the ‘house style’ of the Peabody Trust was established with its next project on Greenman Street in Islington, completed in 1865. As with Columbia Square, a site was deliberately chosen in a notorious slum area, in this instance a rookery called Ward’s Place, to advertise the programme of social improvement. Four five-storey blocks were positioned around a square courtyard with a much longer fifth block set at an angle to the main quadrangle fronting Dibden Street, which forms the southern boundary of the site. A shorter sixth block occupies part of the gap between the two, thereby enclosing a second, wedge-shaped courtyard. All this gives the complex a fortress-like aspect, which is perhaps not entirely coincidental. Davidovici notes than it was gated and shut at night – Peabody’s industrious poor were to be segregated from the less deserving indolent poor who still inhabited the neighbouring slums. In a paper read at the Architectural Association entitled On the Construction of Dwellings for the Poor, Darbishire stated explicitly that it was not envisaged that the improved living conditions of inhabitants of the Peabody housing would have a salutary effect on the wider populace, claiming that all experiments aimed at achieving such a result had failed. Indeed, it was even feared that the disparity in living standards might breed resentment.
Looking northeast into the main quadrangle of the Southwark Peabody complexSatellite view from Google Earth of the Southwark Peabody complex: north is to the right and Blackfriars Road runs along the bottom of the image: note the red brick blocks of the London County Council’s Webber Road estate of 1905-1906 in the upper half.
The Islington complex embodied a distinctive aesthetic, which marked a departure from what had been tried at Spitalfields. All lingering traces of Gothic were purged from the design of the exteriors. The elevations were symmetrically arranged with central entrance doorways and the fenestration was organised on a repetitive grid. It consisted throughout of segmental-headed openings – mostly glazed with three-over-three sash windows, although those lighting the laundry area on the top floor were fitted with casements and those in the narrower bays at each end of the block housing the shared toilets and lavatories were glazed with single-light sashes. Stock brick was used for the walling with dressings and banding of white Suffolks, and the slate roof was set at a shallow pitch with unbroken eaves and ridge lines. One might speak of astylar classicism and certainly the sparing ornamental and decorative touches drew on the architectural language of antiquity – witness the doorcases breaking forward from the wall surface, the modillion eaves cornice and the more closely spaced banding at ground and first floor level paraphrasing rustication. As Davidovici points out, while one branch of the architectural genealogy of this type can be traced back to the Renaissance palazzo (and indeed she records that there was surprise and even anxiety among contemporary commentators that housing for the poor should be palatial in scale, if not in opulence), the rest stem from a very different source – what came to be dubbed ‘The Functional Tradition’ by post-war architectural journalists.
Representative floor plan of one of the blocks at the Southwark Peabody complex, as published in The Builder of 13th January 1872The entrance from the quadrangle to one of the staircases at the Southwark Peabody complex
‘Since the second half of the eighteenth century, classicist features had increasingly been deployed on industrial mill and dock buildings, their ordered, rational aspect a suitable representation of newly rationalised production processes’, writes Davidovici. ‘Housing working-class families in factory-like buildings seems too literal an interpretation, but as both were products of parallel processes of capital concentration and centralisation, the connection might have been practical rather than symbolic’. Indeed, in a paper that appeared in Vol. 14 of the RIBA Transactions in 1865, Darbishire explicitly cites as inspiration an unnamed building that Davidovici has identified as Gidlow Mill in Wigan, built in 1863-1865 for Manchester cotton magnate and philanthropist John Rylands (1801-1888). The architect was George Woodhouse (1829-1883), who was active chiefly in Lancashire and designed a number of other textile mills. Darbishire praised the effectiveness of the structural polychromy deployed at Gidlow Mill in giving dignity and visual interest to an immense industrial structure whose scale and repetitive fenestration would otherwise have made it forbiddingly stark. The secret of its success was to accentuate the building’s best qualities on their own terms.
The main quadrangle of the Southwark Peabody complex, showing the inward-facing elevations of the blocks fronting Blackfriars RoadGidlow Mill in Wigan, Greater Manchester by George Woodhouse of 1863-1865 (www.wiganbuildings.co.uk)
As Davidovici comments, it is very much the aesthetic of what Edmund Burke called the sublime. But it was also a product of entirely practical considerations. The construction costs and rental returns were all set in advance and this necessitated a uniform architectural language. It was a modular form of construction which could in theory be extended outwards and upwards infinitely, and in numerous respects it prefigures the innovations of modernists of the 1930s, who recognised that standardised types were key to mass housing programmes. At the complex on Brodlove Lane in Shadwell, built in 1866, the blocks were raised to six storeys in height. A contemporary view accompanying a report in The Illustrated London News shows cupolas with Darbishire’s characteristic fussy detailing (their function is unclear, but they perhaps provided additional ventilation for the top-floor laundry space) straddling the ridge in the centre of the roof of each block, contrasting with the repetitive nature of the elevations below and providing a visual focus that the design otherwise lacked. These are no longer extant and indeed may have been artistic licence.
The former Rochester Buildings on Old Pye Street in Westminster, originally built in 1863 for William Gibbs and subsequently incorporated into a Peabody complexDummy doorcase on the Old Pye Street elevation of the former Rochester Buildings
Lessons were still being learned and the Southwark complex, built in 1870-1871, represented a change of direction in several respects. A large site running from Blackfriars Road to Waterloo Road allowed for the density of the housing to be dropped and the whole estate to be given a less institutional air. Arranged around two quadrangles set at roughly 45 degrees to one another, the 16 blocks rose to just four storeys in height and the laundries were housed in separate facilities rather than occupying the top floors. ‘The buildings are plainer, and less imposing in appearance, than their predecessors; their cost is materially less, and they are more popular with the tenants. As we said in the account we gave when they were first opened, they are more homelike and agreeable than other establishments erected by the Trustees’, reported The Builder of 13th January 1871. Darbishire dispensed with the corridor plan, which, he recounted in On the Construction of Dwellings for the Poor, had come ‘to be regarded as too plain and unhomelike’, as well as with open staircases. The latter had been a standard feature of the earlier complexes and were regarded as essential to counter a supposed natural partiality for poorly ventilated, stuffy accommodation on the part of the demographic from which the Peabody Trust’s tenants were drawn. ‘If there is anything in the world that a poor man hates, or a poor man’s children are educated to hate, with cordial, sincere and unquenchable hatred, it is fresh air’, Darbishire had claimed in On the Construction of Dwellings for the Poor. But the tenants resented the discomfort imposed on them and indeed many of the open staircases elsewhere were subsequently enclosed.
Peabody Avenue, the inner ‘street’ of the Pimlico complex, looking south towards the extension to the complex added by Haworth Tompkins around 10 years ago.The terracotta-clad blocks at the southern end of the Pimlico complex
The Southwark complex followed the pattern established at Columbia Square and Spitalfields by providing a mixture of single rooms and two-room and three-room sets, making up a total of 384 dwellings. In the sets, the living rooms were 13ft by 11ft (4m by 3.4m) and the bedrooms 13ft by 9ft (4m by 2.7m) in size. The aim was not simply to cater to a range of budgets, but also to provide for growing families, who would be able to move to more extensive accommodation as they expanded and thus remain in a place where they had put down roots and built up support networks. Though its architectural treatment was essentially that of the earlier complexes discussed here, the Southwark complex is unusual in being considered in relation to the surrounding cityscape. It presents a grand, spreading frontage to Blackfriars Road. The elevations of the blocks enclosing the courtyard are symmetrical about an imposing and handsomely rusticated vehicle entrance with a barrel vault, and the centre of each one of them is adorned with curious gables made up of straight and curved lines adorned with stone roundels bearing a ‘P’. The elevations are articulated with central sections that break forward, and constructional polychromy is used more liberally throughout the complex, with diapered panels to give visual interest to blank sections of walling.
Satellite view from Google Earth of the Peabody housing in Westminster: north is to the top and the Old Pye Street complex is lower left, while the Abbey Orchard Street complex is upper right.The ‘island’ block at the Old Pye Street Peabody complex: note the 20th century curtain walling infilling the formerly open staircases of the perimeter blocks in the background.
The advantage of the system devised by Darbishire was that it could be adapted to make efficient use of even the most awkward sites. That which became available for the Pimlico Estate, built in 1874-1876, was a long, narrow strip adjacent to sidings on the approach to Victoria Station. Here, the blocks were placed end to end to create an internal street running down towards Grosvenor Road. The free-standing blocks at the southern end were finished in terracotta, which was used for the rustication of the lower storeys, the quoins and the dressings. A lack of suitable sites meant that the construction of new Peabody housing complexes almost ground to a halt while the Pimlico Estate was building, but it was given a fillip by the Artisans’ and Labourers’ Dwellings Improvement Act of 1875, which empowered the Metropolitan Board of Works to undertake the compulsory purchase and clearance of existing slums. This made available to the Trust sites in central London that would have been prohibitively expensive if purchased directly from the freeholder and thus meant that its activities were effectively being subsidised by public money. Eight new estates were constructed between 1881 and 1885, but the strain that this put on the Trust’s resources and the need to make as economical as possible use of the land meant that the architecture became more spartan and the density of accommodation had to be increased. Thus, at Great Wild Street in Covent Garden (1880-1881) and Abbey Orchard Street in Westminster (1881-1884) the blocks once again were raised to six storeys, although not without concerns that this risked creating exactly the overcrowded, unhealthy conditions that the Peabody Trust had been established to eliminate.
The blocks on the southern side of the Old Pye Street Peabody complex fronting Great Peter Street Entrance to one of the staircases of the Old Pye Street Peabody complex
At Old Pye Street in Westminster (1879-1882), the Peabody complex adjoined the earlier Rochester Buildings of 1862, which Darbishire had originally designed as model housing for William Gibbs (1790-1875) in an area then notorious for its slums. A wealthy merchant who had made his fortune selling guano imported from Peru as an agricultural fertiliser, Gibbs was Anglo-Catholic in his religious sympathies and a close interest in the Gothic Revival went hand-in-hand with philanthropic concerns. He paid for the construction of the monumentally scaled chapel and hall of William Butterfield’s Keble College in Oxford and commissioned Bristol architect John Norton (1823-1904) to remodel on an equally ambitious scale his country residence of Tyntesfield in Somerset. The history of Gibbs’ venture into model working-class housing awaits proper investigation, but evidently competing with a successful and much larger organisation working in the same field came to make little sense and Rochester Buildings were sold to the Peabody Trust in 1877.
The block of the Abbey Orchard Street complex on the corner of Old Pye Street and Perkin’s Rents: note the polygonal bay windows, which originally marked the locations of the laundries on each floor.Peabody-scape: the courtyard of the Old Pye Street complex
A comparison of the two phases is instructive. The earlier phase fronting Old Pye Street is clearly identifiable by the Dutch-style gables (disposed irregularly in a manner that appears to be unrelated to the composition of the façade) and the doorcases, which, viewed in isolation, might almost pass for genuine early 18th century work. The central courtyard is partly taken up with a seven-storey block, rising to six storeys in the middle, to squeeze as much as possible out of the site. The block enclosing the courtyard to the south is doubled with another running parallel to it fronting Great Peter Street. At the extensive Abbey Orchard Estate, located immediately to the east, Darbishire repeated an innovation first tried at Pimlico, by substituting a laundry on each floor for the smallest flat, removing the need for top-floor washrooms shared by all the inhabitants of the block, which often caused friction between tenants. Externally, the laundry rooms are expressed as bay windows, relieving the otherwise monotonous elevations.
Other works
The former orphanage of the Guardsmen’s Home of 1865 on Francis Street in Westminster: the statue of St Francis of 1961 by Arthur Fleischmann dates from when the building housed a Franciscan religious community.
Darbishire’s commissions for Burdett-Coutts and for the Peabody Trust form the two main strands of his career. The remainder constitutes a rather disparate body of works in which it is hard to discern any strongly personal style or marked professional interests, not least because of their wide geographical dispersal. When designing larger buildings, Darbishire seems to have fallen back on Italianate. For the orphanage added in 1865 to his earlier Guardsmen’s Home on Francis Street in Westminster, he deftly reinterpreted a Florentine palazzo. The proportions are elegant and the restrained detailing, more Rundbogenstil than quattrocentro, very effective. The bloated mass of what was originally built in c. 1867 as the Guardsmen’s Institute only a stone’s throw away on Carlisle Place is less successful. Though there are some pretty touches to the detailing, this serves only to emphasise the fact that what would have worked well in a more austere vein as, say, a warehouse or waterworks, is trying to masquerade as a piece of urban grand design without any articulation to give its bulk presence other than through sheer mass. The building served its original function only for a short period before becoming the Archbishop of Westminster’s palace in 1873. It was the residence of Archbishop (later Cardinal-Archbishop) Manning, who died there on 14th January 1892, hence its current name of Manning House. It subsequently became offices and was remodelled by Rolfe Judd in the 1989, when it acquired a slate mansard.
The main elevation to Carlisle Place of Manning House (originally the Guardsmen’s Institute) of c. 1867
Darbishire used Italianate once again for the Working Men’s Institute on Abbey Road in Barrow-in-Furness of 1870-1871. The cost of £3,450 was largely borne by Henry William Schneider (1817-1887), a local ironmaster who at that point was an alderman, later became mayor and was benefactor to many charitable causes in the town. The site was given by the Furness Railway Company, with which he was closely involved. The outline of the building with its tall roof and elaborate cupola on a truncated pyramid was effective; the composition of the street elevation with its rather underscaled central bays and portico over the main entrance less so. The adjacent bath house, in the design of which historical precedents seem to have weighed less heavily on the architect, was rather more successful. That survives, but the Institute, which had latterly housed the Lord’s Tavern pub, was damaged beyond repair in January 2017 when it was gutted by fire and partly collapsed. Darbishire perhaps retained from his upbringing connections with Lancashire, of which Barrow then formed a part, and had established a reputation as an architect of philanthropic schemes, but other than that it is difficult to see why he should have been approached for the commission.
The Working Men’s Institute and baths on Abbey Road in Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, as pictured in The Illustrated London News of 25th May 1872
Clock Cottages in the centre of Eastleach Turville in Gloucestershire of 1875 is a charming group of almshouses commissioned by Sir Thomas Bazley (1797-1885), a Lancashire cotton master, philanthropist and social reformer, who not long prior to that had acquired the Hatherop Estate, where he settled in his final years. A self-consciously picturesque composition that pays homage to the Cotswolds vernacular, the delightful clock tower with its uppermost stage and spire twisted round by 45 degrees forms a very effective accent in the middle of the village. Grundisburgh Rectory in east Suffolk of 1882 is less successful – an ill-composed mish-mash of High Victorian Gothic with various cod-vernacular features (none of them indigenous to the area) such as tile-hanging and dummy half-timbering. It is a cut above the rectories usually supplied by cost-conscious Diocesan authorities and suggests that the client, the Rev’d Henry Turnor, may have invested private means. But by the standards of the progressive domestic architecture emerging at the time, it must have appeared rather ponderous and gauche, and again it is unclear why Darbishire should have approached. How long Darbishire remained in practice after the big Peabody building campaign of the mid-1880s is currently a mystery, like all the other details of his later years. He died in Sevenoaks in Kent – whether this was a chance circumstances or he had settled there is unknown.
The former Working Men’s Institute in Barrow-in-Furness, pictured before its destruction by fire in January 2017 (Bill Wakefield)
Conclusion
The aim of this blog, as reflected in its title, is to revive the reputations of 19th century architects who have fallen into obscurity. There are few more deserving candidates for that than Henry Darbishire. But his lack of recognition is not the result of limited opportunities to build or poor survival of an output that have bedevilled some of the architects featured here: he built prolifically, and much of his work was conceived on a grand scale. Grievous though the loss of Columbia Market was, it was at least well recorded before its demise. In short, it is not difficult to get a sense of what Darbishire was about. His obscurity is less the result of ill fortune than an occupational hazard for an architect who spent most of his career in the service of philanthropy. Success in business, great wealth, high-minded ideals, largesse and noble endeavours at social reform are the stuff of which page-turners of biographies are made. Architects hired to embody philanthropic aims, unless their stock was high to begin with, seldom warrant more than a footnote.
Clock Cottages in Eastleach Turville, Gloucestershire of 1875 (Bob Radlinski)
Changing notions of philanthropy have further eroded Darbishire’s reputation. The positive contrast between his model housing and the dire poverty of the slums that it was intended to supersede can no longer be readily appreciated. Worthy though Peabody’s initiative might have been, the construction campaign that furthered it was viewed as little more than the means to an end. The tenor of much 20th century critical assessment was that the architecture of the Peabody Trust was almost a necessary evil, the utilitarian fulfilment of a brief rather than building as art. Sir Nikolaus Pevsner decried the ‘uncharitable look of the charitable architecture of 1860-1880’, excoriating the Islington Estate as ‘crushingly unattractive’ and later complexes as ‘gloomy and barrack-like’. At worst, the architecture was redolent of puritanical, joyless and paternalistic Victorian charity. At its best, it was so drab as to be quite simply unmemorable: the victim of its own familiarity and ubiquity, it retreats into the cityscape of London almost unnoticed.
The former rectory in Grundisburgh, Suffolk of 1882
Making sense of Darbishire’s legacy becomes even more difficult when one considers the disparity between the stern practicality of the Peabody dwellings and the extravagant whimsicality of his work for Burdett-Coutts, with apparently hardly any middle ground between the two. Was this an architect who was only able to show his mettle when designing for a client for whom money was no object? And, by the same token, when every penny counted, was he unable to make a virtue out of a necessity? Yet paradoxically, I think the sense of a slightly amorphous architectural personality is the key to understanding Darbishire. It is hard to imagine a Street or a Butterfield taking on a project such as Columbia Square, which required specialist knowledge of a particular housing type, on the face of it provided little opportunity for individual architectural expression and involved working for a client who was headstrong and may well have been prescriptive in her aesthetic tastes. It is even harder to imagine any of the numerous Victorian architects seeking to establish their reputations with major public buildings settling for as unprestigious a line of work as designing for the Peabody Trust, welcome though the security of the post would have been.
The north block of the Shadwell Peabody complex
History has no conditional mood and we cannot know how Darbishire might have fared had more opportunities presented themselves to rear Gothic piles on the scale of Columbia Market. Goodhart-Rendel’s incomprehension (supposedly voiced when threats to demolish it first emerged) that Burdett-Coutts ‘should have entrusted the realisation of her noble dream to a practically unknown architect, who seems to have been incapable of producing a decent building of any kind’ was unfair. All the same, there was limited mileage in Darbishire’s brand Gothic. It was architecture in which emotional impact was all, one of Caspar David Friedrich’s or Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s capriccios made flesh. In this respect, it was curiously old-fashioned for its date, more in the spirit of the 1820s-1830s, and, like architecture of that period, did not always stand up well to close scrutiny. Strip off the ornamental trimmings that Darbishire piled on, and you are left with big boxes. It was an approach that might have palled had it persisted, and it is difficult to imagine Darbishire evolving with the Gothic Revival as the century wore on.
The Victoria Park fountain: detail of the dome, showing the clock faces and pointer of the weathervane in the form of a mermaid holding a chalice
But in the work for the Peabody Trust, no such easy get-outs were possible and hard-headed practicality was the watchword. It is architecture that has outlived its critics and proved its worth. Though adapting buildings with communal facilities to suit the very different living standards of the 20th and 21st centuries must have posed some intractable conundra in conservation philosophy, this is housing that, thanks to the ongoing work of the Peabody Trust (and also, it must be said, to the high quality of the work by Darbishire’s usual contractor, William Cubitt and Co), remains an attractive, fulfilling place to live. It represents a noble attempt to grapple with the challenge of providing housing for a mass society, which continues to tax architects to this day. And when one views it in this light, one begins to discern a common thread in Darbishire’s work. It is architecture that formed a setting for daily life in the Victorian metropolis – bringing up a family, fetching clean water, buying groceries, plying a trade. Walking into the cathedral-like space of the main hall at Columbia Market for the first time must have been an exhilarating experience. But it is every bit as uplifting to step through the main gateway of the Southwark Peabody Estate and leave behind busy Blackfriars Road for the unpretentious, reassuring dignity of its two quadrangles. This is architecture that nourishes, enhances and ultimately ennobles the quotidian. For that, Darbishire’s reputation deserves to stand as high as that of any of his more celebrated peers.
The vehicle entrance from Blackfriars Road of the Southwark Peabody complex
In the days before so much human interaction took place virtually, the circumstances in which one struck up a lasting acquaintance tended to stick in one’s mind. When it begins on-line, they can be a lot harder to pinpoint. I think – although I can’t now be entirely sure – that I got to know Hugh Pearman thanks to the excellent ‘Classicism in Modernity’ Facebook group, which I enthusiastically recommend to anyone interested in the numerous ways in which the architectural language of antiquity has been kept vital and relevant since the late 19th century. But I can recall very clearly when we first came face-to-face.
The base of the corner oriel and railings around the area of No. 37 Harley Street, a block of chambers of flats built in 1899: this is the building depicted in the featured photograph at the top of this page.Pite’s entrance front on the north side of Piccadilly to the Burlington Arcade: he was initially commissioned in 1911 to add an extra storey to the original structure of 1818-1819 by Samuel Ware (1781-1860), whose balustrade was reused, split to make space for the arms of the 4th Lord Chesham, owner of the Arcade at that time. For this he adopted a Renaissance manner, a little like Scott’s Victorian interpretation of it at the Foreign Office, although with imaginative touches such as the basket weave finish to the baskets of the capitals replacing the usual tiers of acanthus leaves – a pleasant architectural witticism. In 1931 Pite was brought back to create a new, broader entrance, and this time produced a design in a Michelangelesque vein with a single, broad segmental arch, enormous consoles (the upper ones morphing into pilasters), a great swooping split pediment and much figure sculpture by Benjamin Clemens (1875–1957).
It happened on a grey and chilly spring evening almost exactly four years ago, when he, Tim Brittain-Catlin, Adam Furman and I went on a tour of buildings in Fitzrovia by Arthur Beresford Pite (1861-1934), prompted by a series of posts in the group which had generated a good deal of discussion. At that point I was working in an office on Great Titchfield Street and would see Pite’s buildings on a daily basis. He was very active in Fitzrovia from the late 1890s onwards when he was employed by a firm of speculative builders called Matthews, Rogers and Company that did a lot of work on the Horward de Walden Estate, which covers most of the area. His own office was always located in Marylebone and he was an active member of the congregation of All Souls, Langham Place, the church next to Broadcasting House which was once a close neighbour of T.E. Knightley’s Queen’s Hall. For this he executed several commissions, including the school on Foley Street featured in the post on H.S. Goodhart-Rendel, who was a great admirer of Pite.
Pite’s City War Memorial of 1921 on the Buttermarket in Canterbury – the sculpture is again the work of Benjamin Clemens (1875-1957).The view from the window of my former office of Ames House of 1903-1905 at Nos. 42-44 Mortimer Street: the building is named after Alfred Ames, a philanthropist who provided the funds to put up four storeys of dormitories for the YWCA with shops on the ground floor to provide an income.
Until last year, Hugh was editor of the RIBA Journal. He has paid me the huge compliment of writing for the latest issue of his old magazine a piece about this blog. Here, posted in gratitude, is a small selection of images of the buildings in the West End by the architect who first brought us into contact. In due course, there will be a longer post to do this wonderful legacy proper justice. But I think that even a brief glimpse cannot fail to whet the appetite. Though commuting into central London on a daily basis could often be exhausting and aggravating, Pite’s architecture never failed, in a memorable phrase of Ian Nairn, to give a kick to the ammeter, no matter how tired or disaffected I was feeling. I clocked out of the office on Great Tichfield Street for the last time on 31st October 2017, but Pite followed me to my new job: his is the excellent war memorial on the Butter Market in Canterbury, which until COVID struck I would see every day on the way into my new workplace in the Precincts.
Detail of the sculpture loosely based on Michelangelo’s figures on the Medici tombs in Florence adorning at second-floor level the front of No. 82 Mortimer Street, a former doctor’s house and surgery of 1896
Harry Stuart Goodhart-Rendel (1887-1959) is someone who has loomed very large in this blog. I’m aware that I’ve quoted him extensively without fully explaining who he was and why he matters so much to any student of Victorian architecture. It is now time to bring him centre-stage, even if that means straying outside the chronological bounds of this blog. True, Goodhart-Rendel’s birthdate means that he formally qualifies as a Victorian. But he belonged to the same generation as Le Corbusier (also born in 1887), Mies van der Rohe (born 1886) and Walter Gropius (born 1883) – all figures who struck out against and sought to overturn a great deal of what the 19th century had stood for in architecture. The work from which I have quoted most extensively is Goodhart-Rendel’s lecture of 1947, Rogue Architects of the Victorian Era. It is relevant to three architects profiled in previous posts whom Goodhart-Rendel saw as taking the language of High Victorianism to highly idiosyncratic and ultimately inimitable extremes – E. Bassett Keeling, R.L. Roumieu and Joseph Peacock. The lecture yielded a term which has proved to be a very convenient shorthand for the wildest emanations of the 1860s – ‘Rogue Gothic’.
The post-war pointed arch: view looking to the liturgical west of Our Lady of the Rosary RC Church, Old Marylebone Road, London. The building was designed by Goodhart-Rendel in c. 1956, but construction did not start until 1961, by which point he was dead. Work was overseen by the successor practice, including his former colleague H. Lewis Curtis.
A celebrated scholar and an underappreciated architect
Like so many other terms in art history, ‘roguery’ has turned out to have currency well beyond the scope envisaged by its progenitor. And also like so many other terms in art history, it has remained serviceable, despite the liberties that have sometimes been taken, because applying the necessary qualifications each time it is used would render it hopelessly cumbersome. Nevertheless, it needs to be regularly interrogated and re-examined in the context of the lecture for which it was coined. Goodhart-Rendel’s aim was to show that Victorian architectural history was full of figures who not only defied easy categorisation, but in some cases also confounded the assumptions on which established narratives were founded. Thus, John Shaw the Younger (1803-1870), for example, had pioneered the ‘Wrenaissance’ strand of the Queen Anne style with his (now former) Royal Naval College in Deptford of 1843-1844 a good 40 years or so before buildings that represent a locus classicus for it, such as Norman Shaw’s Bryanston in Dorset of 1889-1894. Alexander Thomson (1817-1875), following excursions early on in his career into the cottage orné and Scottish Baronial manners, had gone assertively neo-Greek right at a time when the Greek Revival appeared to be irrevocably on the wane. With his pamphlet of 1860 Victorian Architecture, in which he argued the need for a style that was an authentic expression of his own time, Thomas Harris (1829/30-1900) had done nothing less than devise a term to describe a whole era, yet in all other respects his venture had been a damp squib.
Portrait bust of Harry Goodhart-Rendel by Dora Gordine (1895-1991) in the headquarters of the RIBA at No. 66 Portland PlaceNo. 1 Dean Trench Street, Westminster, by Harry Goodhart-Rendel of 1951-1955 for Sir Michael Adeane (1910-1984), courtier and Principal Private Secretary to Queen Elizabeth II from 1954 to 1972. It replaced a predecessor of 1912 on the same site, which had been commissioned from Goodhart-Rendel by Adeane’s father and was destroyed by bombing. The style is Neo-Georgian, but of a most unusual type – based on the careful study of historical prototypes, yet as much informed by its designer’s love of Arts and Crafts architecture as by domestic buildings of the opening decades of the 18th century.
The transcript of the lecture manifests Goodhart-Rendel’s exceptional skill as a communicator – eloquent, witty, erudite and thought-provoking – and eye-witness accounts of those who were present when he spoke in public confirm the high expectations that it engenders of his delivery. It is a great pity that the text neither of this nor of his other lectures are, as far as I know, commercially available, meaning that they must be sought in major university or institutional libraries, something which at the time of writing makes them very difficult to consult. But without any such reservations I can direct anyone wishing to sample his writing to English Architecture since the Regency – an Interpretation of 1953, one of the best and most readable introductions to 19th century architecture that there is, based in part on lectures that he gave in the capacity of Slade Professor of Fine Art at the University of Oxford, a post he occupied from 1933 to 1936. I came across a copy during my first week or so as a Victorian Society caseworker in an Oxfam bookshop near the office, and although it is hardly a rarity (the National Trust reprinted the book in 1989 so fortunately there are plenty of second-hand copies in circulation which can be picked up for a very reasonable price) the discovery struck me at the time as nothing short of providential. Do indulge – it is a work I cannot recommend highly enough. Goodhart-Rendel possessed in ample quantity the most important skill of any good teacher of architecture – the ability to instil a desire to go and see for oneself the buildings that he describes.
‘It is still to me like St Paul’s Epistles: you can find more in it every time you turn back to it’. (John Betjeman)Westminster Technical (now Kingsway) College on Vincent Square in Westminster, a tour de force of coloured, patterned and textured brickwork, which is the product of two building campaigns of 1951-1953 and 1955-1957. It incorporates the steel frame of a project begun in the late 1930s and abandoned at the outbreak of World War II.
All this is a remarkable achievement by any standards, and in the context of the time it is a very surprising one, since regarding Victorian architecture as worthy of serious study in the mid-20th century smacked decidedly of contrarianism. As I have discussed in a number of previous posts, perceptions of it have changed considerably in the course of the last 100 years or so, and it was not until well into the 1980s that the aesthetic and historical significance of 19th and early 20th century architectural heritage was sufficiently firmly established for it to be able to gain unassailable statutory protection. The battle was hard fought. That it was won at all was due to the efforts of pressure groups such as The Victorian Society, of which Goodhart-Rendel was a founding member, and the galvanising effect of major losses such as (in London alone) the Euston Arch, the Coal Exchange and the Birkbeck Bank. But all that is to anticipate, since at the time when Goodhart-Rendel was writing and lecturing, Victorian architecture in general and High Victorian Gothic in particular were viewed with profound distaste. Though Gothic died hard in the 20th century and the style remained current for ecclesiastical buildings until well into the 1950s, the work of the 1850s-1870s was strong meat for palettes of the inter-war period. The degree of revulsion can be gauged by the numerous examples of ‘de-Victorianisation’ such as the remodelling beyond all recognition of Aldwark Manor in North Yorkshire, featured in the post on E.B. Lamb’s country houses. Such examples are legion.
One of the windows by Margaret Thompson in the baptistry at St John the Evangelist in St Leonards-on-SeaDetail of the main entrance at Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead in Bermondsey
Even more remarkable than Goodhart-Rendel’s legacy as an author and lecturer is the fact that the architecture of the Victorian age closely informed his own work, for as well as being a scholar he was an architect in his own right. Yet though he occupied several influential professional posts – he was President of the Architectural Association in 1924–1925, President of the RIBA in 1937–1939, then Director of the Architectural Association School of Architecture in 1936-1938 – within his own lifetime it attracted little attention and indeed sometimes met with incomprehension. It was prone to being overshadowed by his scholarship and when in 1955 he was appointed C.B.E., the citation read that it had been awarded ‘for services to architectural criticism’.
St Elizabeth of Portugal, Richmond upon Thames: Joseph Ledger’s frieze depicting the Stations of the Cross added in 1951 as part of Goodhart-Rendel’s redecoration of this church originally built in 1824 by Thomas Hardwick (1752-1829) and extended in 1903 by F.A. Walters (1849-1931). (Malcolm Woods)Holy Spirit, Ewloe, Flintshire: this church was the gift of Lady Gladstone of nearby Hawarden, who was Goodhart-Rendel’s aunt, and built in 1937-1938 as a memorial to her husband. The dome with its central lantern, which paraphrases a form encountered in several Romanesque churches of Aquitaine, marks the location of the chancel, but otherwise the composition is almost bafflingly wilful and the logic of the planning becomes apparent only within.
But he has been lucky to have an important advocate in architectural historian Alan Powers, who both edited and contributed to a collection of articles entitled simply H.S. Goodhart-Rendel, 1887-1959, published by the Architectural Association on the occasion of the centenary of his birth. It is still the nearest thing to a comprehensive monograph and an excellent source of information, not least because for several of Powers’ collaborators – such as John Summerson, who wrote the foreword – Goodhart-Rendel still existed in living memory. The illustrated catalogue of his works is particularly useful. But as is so often the case with books on architectural history, it had a small print run and unfortunately is now rare and correspondingly expensive on the second-hand market. More recently, Goodhart-Rendel has been well served by England’s Post-War Listed Buildings by Elain Harwood, a gazetteer handsomely illustrated with photographs by James O. Davies published in 2015. That any of the architect’s later work qualified for inclusion is a measure of how his stature has grown since 1971, when the first of his buildings – St Olaf’s House in Southwark, of which more anon – was listed.
Holy Spirit, Ewloe, Flintshire: general view of the interior looking east towards the top-lit chancel. The vaults are constructed of reinforced concrete, allowing for mural decoration at a later date, but this was never realised.
Formative influences
The saddleback west tower of Butterfield’s church of St Alban’s, Holborn in central London – the only part of the original building of 1861-1862 to have been retained when it was reconstructed following severe bomb damage.
Something now needs to be said about Goodhart-Rendel’s background and training. Born into a privileged and educated family – his father was a fellow in classics at Trinity College, Cambridge – he showed a keen interest in architecture from an early age. But his interest in music was equally strong and that was what he chose to study when he went up to Cambridge in 1905. He quickly attracted the attention of Lytton Strachey (to whose best known work the name of this blog alludes) and was briefly inducted into the Cambridge Apostles, although dropped when it became apparent that his interest in Christianity was no affectation. His degree was followed by a period of post-graduate study with the composer and musicologist Donald Tovey (1875-1940). It was not a success owing their antagonistic tastes: Goodhart-Rendel admired the French composer André Messager (1853-1929), famed chiefly for his light operettas and ballets, while Tovey revered the high seriousness of Johannes Brahms. Nevertheless, the friendship that they struck up survived unaffected, and when Goodhart-Rendel entered architectural practice after graduating in 1909, one of his first works was a house for Tovey’s former teacher and patron, Sophie Weiss (1852-1945) – The Pantiles, at Englefield Green in Surrey, built in 1911. Goodhart-Rendel never lost his interest in music and was reputedly an accomplished pianist who also composed a small amount, some of it published. In 1934 he became a governor of Sadler’s Wells and in 1953 vice-president of the Royal Academy of Music, which five years later made him an honorary fellow.
The interior of Arthur Beresford Pite’s Christ Church, Brixton of 1896-1902
Yet Goodhart-Rendel’s architectural formation is rather more difficult to pin down. In 1909 he studied briefly with Sir Charles Nicholson (1867-1949), a prolific ecclesiastical architect who produced schemes (neither executed in full) for enlarging the old parish churches of Sheffield and Portsmouth after they were raised to cathedral status in 1914 and 1927 respectively. He also designed a large number of churches for new suburban areas and carried out numerous restorations, enlargements and reorderings of ancient buildings. Nicholson’s own training had been with John Dando Sedding (1838-1891) and he seems to have imbued his teacher’s belief that Gothic should be ‘living architecture for living men’, treating the style with such freedom that in later works it even absorbs thoroughly classical elements. All that postdates Goodhart-Rendel’s time in his office, however, and in fact with this one exception, the younger man was self-taught, which perhaps accounts more than anything else for his undogmatic approach. Lodestars included the great master of the English baroque Nicholas Hawksmoor (c. 1662-1736), on whom he published a study in 1924, and Arthur Beresford Pite (1861-1934), both figures who had stood outside the mainstream and produced no direct successors.
The entrance front to Foley Street of Arthur Beresford Pite’s school for All Souls, Langham Place (1907-1908)
Muscular Gothic for the Roaring Twenties
Goodhart-Rendel’s early designs, for the most part domestic architecture, are handled in an elegantly spare astylar classical manner, sometimes reminiscent of Lutyens, sometimes – the result of devices such as fenestration arranged in bands and deep cornices – slightly of the early work of Frank Lloyd Wright. But the interest in Victorian architecture, though at that point dormant, was evidently there and it soom came to the fore in the work that he carried out at St Mary’s, Bourne Street in Belgravia, which I mentioned in passing in my post on R.J. Withers. St Mary’s had been established as a daughter church of St Paul’s, Wilton Place in Knightsbridge, and initially was a chapel-of-ease, ministering to a poor area on the boundaries of Pimlico and Belgravia with a population mainly employed in domestic service. It seems that the commission went to Withers on the strength of his work at the mother church, where in 1870 he had reordered what was essentially a late Georgian Gothick preaching box of 1840-1843 by Thomas Cundy Jr (1790-1867) to make it a more fitting setting for ritualist worship. It was a fortuitous choice: it put the project in the hands of an architect with an ability, so well demonstrated in his rural churches, to produce imaginative design on a limited budget.
The presbytery, remodelled by Goodhart-Rendel in 1922 from a former pub, and church of St Mary, Bourne Street viewed from the junction of Bourne Street and Graham Terrace.
St Mary’s became a stronghold of Anglo-Catholicism, but by the early 20th century this no longer implied sympathy for Gothic, instrumental though the movement had been in its development throughout the preceding century. High Churchmen began to turn their back on the style and instead embraced Italianate and Iberian High Baroque, a measure not only of changing tastes, but also of increased freedom which now allowed devotion of a kind that, only a short while earlier, would have invited charges of crypto-papism. As early as 1908, Sydney Gambier Parry had designed for Fr Howell, the then-incumbent, a reredos and an organ loft in an exuberant brand of loosely English Baroque. In 1916 Fr Humphrey Whitby became parish priest. He engaged to continue the work of refurnishing the building Martin Travers (1886-1948), who had previously carried out work for him at St Columba’s, Kingsland Road in Haggerston (one of James Brooks’s mission churches to the East End), where Whitby had been a deacon prior to his appointment. Travers was kept busy with commissions for St Mary’s into the early 1920s, providing a number of flamboyant gilt fittings that worked well as an ensemble in their own right, but were profoundly at odds with Withers’ architecture. It was at any rate a mercy that Travers did not whitewash the interior, as he did at Butterfield’s church of St Augustine, Queen’s Gate to set off better the equally extravagant fittings that he designed for that building.
The interior of the Chapel of the Seven Sorrows at St Mary’s, Bourne Street, added by Goodhart-Rendel in 1924-1925
Whitby was independently wealthy and willing to put his means at the service of the parish. His plans for the building went a long way beyond refurnishing and embellishment, and here he ran up against Travers’ great disadvantage for ambitious clients such as he – a lack of any formal architectural training. Goodhart-Rendel’s own churchmanship at this date was Anglo-Catholic and this, as likely as not, explains why he was brought in when, around 1922, Whitby decided to remodel ‘The Pineapple’, a pub on the corner of Bourne Street and Graham Terrace, as a presbytery. Goodhart-Rendel rose to the occasion with a spirited piece of Arts and Crafts, slate-hung in the vernacular tradition of Devon and Cornwall, and from some angles upstaging Withers’ church in the streetscape. This seems to have stood him in good stead when a competition was held in 1924 to find a design for the enlargement of the church into a vacant strip of land that adjoined it to the (liturgical) north. He added an outer north aisle to serve as a Lady Chapel, with an altar dedicated to the Seven Sorrows of Mary.
Goodhart-Rendel’s unexecuted scheme for the addition of a west tower to St Mary’s, Bourne Street
Though liturgically subservient to the main worship space, spatially it is not so since it forms part of a new access route to the interior. It is elongated to the liturgical west with a narthex linking it to an ingeniously contrived two-storey heptagonal porch. This is approached down a narrow passage running between the presbytery and neighbouring residential property, opened up by the demolition of a house that had previously occupied the site. Whereas Travers had shown complete disregard for Withers’ architecture, Goodhart-Rendel responded with great sensitivity: his undemonstrative but subtly detailed Gothic with beautifully executed brickwork is perfectly consonant with it, and the visitor’s progress from the street outside to the interior instils both mystery and drama as a succession of spaces unfolds, all varying in width, height and the level of lighting. The final stage of the journey from the Chapel to the nave though a north aisle with vistas opening up in two directions is a real masterstroke. The architecture is equally carefully conceived in relation to the fittings designed for it – a reredos painted by Colin Gill (1892-1940), altar rails by Betty Joel (1894-1985) and stained glass by Veronica Whall (1887-1967). In 1929, Goodhart-Rendel added a servers’ sacristy on the south side of the apse, but a powerful design for a west tower with a saddleback roof unfortunately remained on paper. This is the first instance of a device that became one of the architect’s trademarks. It had been favoured by William Butterfield (1814-1900), and it says much that in English Architecture since the Regency the author reproduced an engraving by Beresford Pite of that architect’s church of St Alban’s, Holborn, where it had been employed, which depicted the tower rising dramatically out of a squalid and devastated urban setting.
Two-storey porch serving the new entrance from Bourne Street to St Mary’s church, added by Goodhart-Rendel in 1924-1925
An excursion into modernism
The river front of St Olaf’s House, viewed from the north bank of the Thames: note Frank Dobson’s faience panels depicting ‘The Chain of Commerce’.
It is important to stress that Goodhart-Rendel was not a niche pasticheur, and no building demonstrates that quite so cogently as what is perhaps his most celebrated work, St Olaf’s House on Tooley Street in Southwark. It was built in 1930-1932 as the headquarters of Hay’s Wharf, a company originally set up by Alexander Hay in the 17th century. At one time this owned all the warehouses on the south side of the Thames between London Bridge and Tower Bridge, which were used for storing freight arriving at the Pool of London, and it also operated related and equally lucrative businesses, such as shipping and distribution services. Though the current name of this building is relatively recent (it dates from when Hay’s Wharf vacated the premises in 1986), it reflects the long history of the site, which was formerly occupied by the church of St Olave’s, Tooley Street, a medieval foundation rebuilt to the designs of Henry Flitcroft in 1738-1739 and demolished in 1926-1928.
Figure of St Olave on the Tooley Street side of St Olaf’s House by Frank Dobson
Nothing in the architect’s output from before that date quite prepares one for St Olaf’s House, and indeed the design did not emerge from Goodhart-Rendel’s head fully formed, instead evolving through a series of concept sketches which were initially neo-classical. The building defies easy categorisation and represents a very different response to the gauntlet thrown down by the European avant-garde to what a slightly younger generation of architects, such as the Connell, Ward and Lucas firm, was doing around this date. Of all the stylistic labels attached to it, the only one that describes it adequately is ‘Moderne’. Like Art Deco and unlike Functionalism, it is able to incorporate applied art and ornament, but with greater seriousness of purpose than the Jazz-age decorative trimmings to be found in the former. There is even a touch of the expressionist Amsterdam School in the angularity of some of the modelling. The oriel windows overlooking the river that light the common room and double-height board room are adorned by gilded faience panels mounted on polished back granite entitled ‘The Chain of Commerce’. These were the work of Frank Dobson (1886–1963), who was also responsible for the outline figure of St Olave in black and gold mosaic on the landward side.
St Olaf’s House is roughly ‘T’-shaped in plan – this is the east side of the central stroke of the ‘T’, extending back to Tooley Street from the rear of the main block on the river front shown above.
While there are other buildings of this date with superficially modernist trappings such as strip windows, metal-framed glazing and smooth Portland stone cladding, here a powerful intelligence has grasped something much deeper than just a set of mannerisms. Goodhart-Rendel was keen to rise to the intellectual challenge of the Modern Movement, but also to engage with it on his own terms. The stanchions on which St Olaf’s House is supported have as much to do with a requirement in the brief for vehicular access to the waterfront and a covered area for cars to drop off passengers by the entrance as they do with the notion in Le Corbusier’s ‘Five Points’ of liberating a building from the ground by raising it up on pilotis. The angular modelling of the forms is no stylistic affectation, but dictated by the need to maximise the amount of light that could be brought into the drawing offices on the sixth floor. The load-bearing steel frame is clearly expressed in the elevation to the river, yet the source of Goodhart-Rendel’s theories of structural rationalism was Viollet-le-Duc, who in turn claimed to have derived them from his study of the architecture of the 12th-13th centuries. The architect was therefore not being wholly flippant when he replied, having been asked to describe the style, that it was ‘early French Gothic’.
The main entrance to St Olaf HouseThe landward elevation to Tooley Street of St Olaf House
In 1924 Goodhart-Rendel converted to Catholicism, and the churches that he built for his faith are among his most important and characteristic works. But what would have been the greatest of them all was fated to remain on paper. Prinknash Abbey was founded in 1928 by a community of Benedictine monks which had previously been based on Caldey Island off the Pembrokeshire coast near Tenby, and which had converted from Anglicanism to Catholicism in 1913. They took up residence in a stately home southeast of Gloucester that until the Dissolution of the Monasteries had been a grange of St Peter’s Abbey, the establishment that Henry VIII turned into Gloucester Cathedral. This was the bequest of another fervent Catholic convert, yet it was only a temporary expediency and around 10 years later, Goodhart-Rendel was engaged to produce designs for a purpose-built complex. It was to be a major statement of Catholic triumphalism – the immense abbey church would have stretched to 300ft (91.4m) in length. Its very construction was to be an act of devotion, since it was intended that the church would be built by the monks and thus the walls were to be solid masonry, finished in honey-coloured local stone. The vaults and domes were to be mass concrete, clad externally in copper.
The exterior of the unexecuted abbey church at Prinknash from liturgical north (actual south, since the canonical orientation of the building was to be reversed to suit the fall of the land), artist’s impression by H. Lewis Curtis of c. 1946
The transverse barrel vaults of the choir were inspired by those of the Romanesque church of St Philibert at Tournus in Burgundy, yet used not for aesthetic effect but to avoid the need for external buttressing. Gothic was abandoned altogether in favour of a highly personal stylisation of Byzantine architecture. This harks back to Westminster Cathedral by J.F. Bentley (1839-1902), a figure deeply admired by Goodhart-Rendel, and perhaps also to the equally sophisticated reinterpretation of the style by Beresford Pite at Christ Church, Brixton. The design went through several revisions and the final version did not appear until 1953. Ground was broken that year, but it quickly became obvious that completion in line with the architect’s full intentions was unrealistic. The lower crypt chapel, where Goodhart-Rendel was buried, was fitted up as a temporary abbey church, then in the 1960s a much scaled-down scheme housing the entire monastery was built on what had been completed of the foundations.
The interior of the unexecuted abbey church at Prinknash looking from the monks’ choir into the nave and showing the baldacchino marking the high altar beneath the crossing, artist’s impression by Joseph Pike of 1939
Rebuilding Victorian Britain
Southern elevation to Pevensey Road of St John the Evangelist in St Leonards-on-Sea: the spire crowning Blomfield’s octagonal tower was not reinstated following its destruction in 1943.
In fact the most exciting opportunities for building new churches came not from the Catholic revival but post-war reconstruction, when Goodhart-Rendel’s ability to respond sensitively to Victorian fabric properly came into its own. One such instance was St John the Evangelist, Maze Hill in St Leonards-on-Sea, one of a number of large town churches built in the latter part of the 19th century as this then-prosperous East Sussex resort underwent rapid expansion. The architect was the prolific Sir A.W. Blomfield (1829-1899), who handled a large number of such commissions and supplied what seems to have been a fairly typical product of his office, which was completed in 1884. Its most distinctive feature was the slender octagonal tower. In February 1943 a high explosive bomb destroyed everything apart from that and the adjoining west wall and baptistery. Reconstruction began in 1950. The nave was finished in 1952, followed by the chancel in 1957, when the building was re-hallowed, although work on some of the ancillary features continued into the 1960s.
General view of the nave of St John the Evangelist as seen from the flying arch spanning the junction with the chancel: note the triple arches in the west wall at ground level leading into the narthex and baptistry salvaged from Blomfield’s church.Joseph Ledger’s glass in one of the nave windows of St John the Evangelist, St Leonards-on-Sea
The church is unusual in Goodhart-Rendel’s output for being explicitly Gothic. Though usually inclined not to use pointed arches, which he disliked, nevertheless he was keen to harmonise with what had been retained of the original fabric. Essentially, the building is a large single vessel of broad, lofty nave, with low passage aisles, and only slightly lower and narrower chancel. But great drama and interest are introduced at the junction of these two volumes. A flying arch originally intended to carry the organ and seating for the choir spans the chancel arch about half way up. To either side are unusual openings of one and a half bays into transept-like spaces, which in turn lead through to the side chapels flanking the chancel. Above them are short stretches of clerestory-like fenestration providing lighting from the side and above. The baptistry and font of the Blomfield church were retained and incorporated into the new building, with vividly coloured stained glass by Margaret Thompson (1909-2007) to replace what had been lost. Elsewhere the glass is the work of Joseph Ledger (1926-2010) who supplied unusual designs that are largely monochrome with sparingly, although very effectively deployed spots of colour. Externally the church is powerfully modelled and clad in superb quality brickwork with plum-coloured banding. The almost vernacular treatment of some of the roofing, which incorporates gambrels and catslides, belies the grand scale of the building and maintains visual subservience to Blomfield’s tower.
The ‘one-and-a-half’ arches at the east end of the nave of St John the Evangelist, St Leonards-on-SeaThe interior of the Guards’ Chapel at Wellington Barracks as remodelled by G.E. Street in 1876-1879, prior to destruction in World War II (Historic England)
Fortunately, the destruction of St John’s did not claim any human life. The same was not true of the direct hit by a V1 rocket bomb of the Guards’ Chapel at Wellington Barracks in Westminster. When it occurred on 18th June 1944, a service was in progress and 120 people were killed. The commission to rebuild the chapel must have had special resonances for Goodhart-Rendel, who had been an officer in the Grenadier Guards and confided to James Lees-Milne in 1942 that his devotion to the army came second only to that to the Roman Catholic church. The scheme was drawn up quickly and published in The Builder of 12th December 1947. Though Goodhart-Rendel’s response to the character of place was usually exceptionally perceptive, it is difficult not to get the sense that this job caused him a certain amount of difficulty. This was perhaps the result of the unusual circumstances, since the old chapel had been a not entirely happy amalgam of wildly contrasting styles. Built in 1838, possibly to the designs of Sir Frederick Smith of the Royal Engineers in consultation with Philip Hardwick (1792-1870), it was a temple-form building with a Greek Doric portico. As built, the interior was reportedly very plain and in 1876 a committee was formed to beautify it, to which end it engaged G.E. Street (1824-1881).
Artist’s impression of Goodhart-Rendel’s scheme for the reconstruction of the Guards’ Chapel, as published in The Builder of 12th December 1947External elevations of Goodhart-Rendel’s scheme for the reconstruction of the Guards’ Chapel, as published in The Builder of 12th December 1947Interior of the vestibule and memorial cloister (left) and ground plan (right) of Goodhart-Rendel’s scheme for the reconstruction of the Guards’ Chapel, as published in The Builder of 12th December 1947
The scheme, completed in 1879, involved the insertion of round-arched arcades and addition of an apsidal chancel in the Italianate Romanesque manner that enjoyed great popularity for military places of worship. The interior was vaulted with alternating ribs of Bath stone and Roman red brick and it was richly decorated. Much of this was the work of Clayton and Bell, who supplied the stained glass and designed the sumptuous mosaics in the sanctuary, which were executed by Salviati. Though the effect of the explosion was devastating, it had left the apse largely intact (reputedly candles lit during the service were still burning when the dust had settled) and it was desired to retain this. Goodhart-Rendel’s design was based on reusing the existing foundations and followed the forms of the pre-war building fairly closely, although it supplanted Street’s neo-Romanesque detailing with overtly classical devices, such as Composite order pilasters and guilloche mouldings to the soffits of the arches. The Doric portico was omitted in favour of a cloister arm extending out at a right angle to a new entrance on Birdcage Walk. This was to be wholly classical in manner, consisting of a series of vaulted chambers with space for monuments to the regiments of the Foot Guards and Household Cavalry, and it was to culminate in a grand narthex enclosing the main entrance to the chapel proper. In the event, only the cloister arm was completed and that not until 1956. The architect’s death seems to have brought the project to a halt and when work recommenced, an uncompromisingly modernist design by Bruce George was substituted, which was eventually completed in 1963.
The interior of St John the Divine, Kennington looking west, as viewed from Goodhart-Rendel’s altar daisThe former convent of the Community of St Mary the Virgin and lodge (the latter forward and to the left) at Nos. 92 and 96 Vassall Road that Goodhart-Rendel designed as part of his restoration scheme for St John the Divine, Kennington. The rose window marks what was designed as the chapel of the convent, converted into a library after its premises became the vicarage.
More successful was Goodhart-Rendel’s restoration of another major work by G.E. Street, the church of St John the Divine in Kennington, south London. That architect’s largest church in the capital, capable of seating a congregation of 1,000, it was built in stages in 1871-1874. The building consists of a broad and lofty nave and aisles with no clerestory and the easternmost bays of the arcades are canted inwards where this huge volume narrows at its junction with the chancel. At the west end is a tower and spire soaring in height to 212ft (64.6m), completed posthumously in 1887-1888 under the guidance of the architect’s son, A.E. Street. An incendiary bomb which hit St John’s in 1941 caused severe damage and the building was entirely gutted, as recorded in a photograph in the RIBA collection. In his reconstruction of 1955-1958, Goodhart-Rendel skilfully reinstated the roof on the basis of Street’s drawings, omitting the later, unsympathetic decorative scheme that had been added in the 1890s by G.F. Bodley (1827-1907). He brought forward the altar from the apse, introducing a dais at the west end of the nave, which was flanked with wrought iron screens emulating Street’s own superb work in the medium. Goodhart-Rendel showed equally sure command of the Victorian master’s idiom in his design for the neighbouring complex at Nos. 92 and 96 Vassall Road, originally built in 1952-1954 as a convent and lodge for the Community of St Mary and now used as a vicarage and caretaker’s house.
The main entrance front to the west of Most Holy Trinity, DockheadSouth side of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead in the summer sun
War damage produced yet another major ecclesiastical commission – the reconstruction of the church of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead on Jamaica Road in Bermondsey. The parish traced its origins to a mission established in 1773, whose chapel was destroyed in the Gordon riots of 1780. This was rebuilt but quickly outgrown, and so was replaced in 1837-1838 by Sampson Kempthorne (1809-1873), who provided a large aisled and galleried brick building in a rather bald lancet style. In March 1945, a flying bomb destroyed both this and the adjoining convent of 1838 by A.W.N. Pugin, his first such commission. In 1957, work began on the replacement church with its attached presbytery, which was not completed until 1960. In contrast to the works described above, Goodhart-Rendel responded to the commission in a manner that marked a complete departure from the character of the original church, which in any case had stood on a completely different site that was largely obliterated by post-war traffic improvements.
Detail of the constructional polychromy and decorative window leading to the south elevation of Most Holy Trinity, DockheadGeneral view of the interior of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead from the organ gallery at the west end
The geometry of the design is organised around equilateral triangles, interpreted as a symbol of the Holy Trinity, and the hexagon, of which they are a constituent element. This is most apparent in the powerfully massed towers of the entrance front, hexagonal in plan and flanking a central arched opening. The device had been used by German architect Theodore Fischer (1862-1938) at his Pauluskirche in Ulm of 1908-1910 (although there the towers are circular rather than polygonal) and a comparison has been drawn on several occasions, although whether Goodhart-Rendel was explicitly inspired by that building is unclear. But for all the intellectual games in the planning and proportioning, what sticks in the memory about the exterior is the direct, very sensual appeal of the constructional polychromy, a dazzling array of stripes, interwoven diagonal banding and reticulation in beautifully executed plum, crimson and steel-blue brickwork, bold and vivid enough to rival Victorian gothic of the 1850s-1860s at its most strident. This is subtly echoed by the geometrical patterning of the leadwork of the plain glass in the lunettes of the nave windows. A towerlike mass with a transverse saddleback roof is heaved up above the chancel to light the space from the sides and above (here, the east window is tiny), a reinterpretation of the device already encountered at St John the Evangelist in St Leonards-on-Sea and used at several other churches.
The high altar of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead showing Atri Brown’s ceramic triptych depicting (left to right) the Nativity, Christ with St Peter, and PentecostInterior of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead: note the pulpit and largely blind north wall.
The stately interior has tall passage aisles and transverse vaults of thin concrete. This, together with the concentration of lighting from the south (the north side of the nave is mostly blind) represents the realisation of ideas first tried out in the unexecuted scheme for Prinknash. But whereas there the transverse vaults were to have been horizontal in section, here they rise to follow the curve of the arches that bridge the central aisle. The colour scheme of the interior is relatively muted compared to the exuberant display of the exterior and constructional polychromy is confined to the chancel, where the lower part of the sanctuary is clad with tiers of pilasters on a banded ground of cream and buff stone, incorporating ceramic reliefs by Atri Cecil Brown (1906-1982). The same artist perhaps was also responsible for the monogram of the Trinity set into the east wall, located above the carved and gilt canopy with its coffered soffit; certainly he was responsible for the Stations of the Cross, which were installed in 1971. The banding reappears on the curved front of the built-in pulpit. The tactical use of colour concentrates the worshipper’s attention on the liturgically most important part of the building, although this feels a little overwhelmed by the slightly threadbare overall impression. The pilasters in the sanctuary are fluted and the top cornice incorporates a strange paraphrase of dentilation – one of the few parts of the building capable of being analysed in these terms. Everywhere else, though the reminiscences of historical prototypes – be they Roman, Romanesque, Gothic or Classical – are strong, the effect is to tease rather than to evoke, always allusion rather than direct quotation. The relationship to historicism is every bit as ambiguous as that of St Olaf’s House to modernism.
South side of Most Holy Trinity, Dockhead in the winter sun
Conclusion
After Goodhart-Rendel’s death, his practice was taken over by Frank Broadbent (1909-1983), his former business partner. H. Lewis Curtis, his former assistant, oversaw the completion of projects such as Holy Trinity, Dockhead, ensuring that this was done in accordance with his intentions and succeeding admirably in imitating the master’s style when additional design work was required. Otherwise, most of what Goodhart-Rendel had represented died with him. His death occurred at a pivotal moment for British architecture: modernism was finally emerging triumphant from the stylistic pluralism that had persisted for much of the 20th century, which in the ecclesiastical sphere was marked by the victory of Basil Spence in the competition of 1951 for the new Coventry Cathedral. Though aspects of the planning of that building were decidedly conservative, the reforms of the following decade initiated by the Second Vatican Council in the Roman Catholic Church and the liturgical movement in the Church of England would propel ecclesiastical design towards greater innovation and more decisive breaks with historical precedent.
St John’s Church, Newbury in Berkshire by Stephen Dykes Bower: designed 1950, built 1954-1957 (Polyrus)Interior of the Good Shepherd, Arbury in Cambridge by Stephen Dykes Bower (1953-1957, west end completed in 1975)
Though traditionalism never quite died out, those architects who persisted with it would from now on plough a lonely furrow. The milieu in which it remained in demand was ever more tightly circumscribed – additions to historic buildings in sensitive locations, commissions from wealthy clients with conservative taste. Goodhart-Rendel had known from his own experience how unfashionable Victorian Gothic had been in the middle decades of the century; now any revival at all of a past style looked retrogressive, if not downright reactionary. Post-war classicism was fortunate to have at its service such talented practitioners as Sir Albert Richardson (1880-1964), Raymond Erith (1904-1973) and Sir Clough Williams Ellis (1883-1978), but Gothic wanted for comparable advocates. At St John in Newbury, Berkshire (designed 1950, built 1954-1957) and The Good Shepherd in Arbury, a suburb of Cambridge, Stephen Dykes Bower (1903-1994) had looked to be pursuing a similar line of development to Goodhart-Rendel, not least in his celebration of colour and craftsmanship in brick. But these turned out to be isolated instances: elsewhere, it was the cool, refined Gothic as practised by the likes of G.F. Bodley and Temple Moore in the 1880s-1900s, not the colourful stridency of the 1860s, that served as his inspiration.
Model of George Pace’s scheme for the completion of Sheffield Cathedral showing the proposed nave and liturgical west (in fact, compass south) main entrance to Church Street: this version of June 1959 was one of a total of 25 submitted by the architect to the Cathedral Council before he eventually resigned from the project in 1963.The (compass) west front added by Ansell and Bailey when they were engaged to complete Sheffield Cathedral following George Pace’s resignation from the project. The proposal to demolish the Georgian Gothick nave and to build a new main vessel across it on a new axis at a right angle to the old was abandoned, and the building was returned to its original alignment.
George Pace (1915-1975) remained truthful to the Arts and Crafts ethos in his emphasis on handicraft in a wide variety of media and meticulous detailing, all in the service of a total aesthetic, and to some degree he perpetuated the spirit of Gothic in his numerous ecclesiastical commissions. But he reembodied it in an often uncompromising Modernist aesthetic, whose kinship with the architecture of High Victorianism was to be found mainly at a conceptual level in its stridency and muscularity. Where he used the pointed arch, it was usually because of the need for a measure of visual deference to existing fabric, such as in his unexecuted designs of 1956-1961 for the completion of Sheffield Cathedral, which had to knit together the retrochoir and choir aisle – all that had been completed of an monumental neo-Gothic scheme by Sir Charles Nicholson begun in 1936 and curtailed by the outbreak of World War II – with the eastern arm that was to be retained of the city’s originally medieval parish church as a kind of outsize transept. Even more startling than this already visually arresting conception is the west front added when the nave was eventually completed in 1966 to a scheme by Ansell and Bailey. It has distinct affinities with the most wilful roguishness of 100 years earlier, paraphrasing the forms in a manner that can only be described as Brutalist Gothic.
The entrance front to Whitehall of Richmond House by Sir William Whitfield (1982-1984)Elevation to Rampayne Street of Sir William Whitfield’s office complex in Pimlico (designed 1976, built 1980-1983)
Victorian architecture might have benefited from critical reassessment and growing appreciation as the 20th century wore on, but that did not make neo-Victorianism a popular cause. Nor was it much buoyed by the reaction against modernism in the 1980s and campaign for a return to styles of the past led by Prince Charles, the effect of which was largely to reanimate the corpse of the Neo-Georgian movement. There are, however, some honourable exceptions. One is the later work of William Whitfield (1920-2019), who, at a speculative development for the Crown Commissioners in Pimlico, explored the possibility of reviving load-bearing masonry construction and in so doing produced an office block quite unlike any other with its overtones of the industrial architecture of the 19th century – inescapable, even if the architect himself denied that that had been the intention. At the Whitehall frontage of Richmond House of 1982-1984, he cleverly reinterpreted the forms of Tudor Gothic to give greater emphasis to a façade occupying an awkward site, as well as alluding to the lost Holbein Gate of Whitehall Palace, which had once stood nearby. In both designs he rejoiced in craftsmanship and the colour and texture of his materials to a degree quite exceptional for the date. The Queen’s Building at De Montfort University in Leicester by Short Ford Associates of 1991-1993 evidences not only a similar delight in constructional polychromy, but also combines it with the pointed arch, as well as exploiting functional demands – here, aimed at facilitating natural ventilation – to create expressive forms in a manner that would have thrilled the likes of Charles Henry Driver.
The Queen’s Building at De Montfort University in Leicester by Short Ford Associates of 1991-1993 (David Lea)The Gallery of the Cambridge Judge Business School, built 1993-1995 to the designs of John Outram (b. 1934): it occupies the site of Addenbrooke’s Hospital on Trumpington Street and, though effectively a brand new structure, incorporates the façade of the original building, which in its final form was chiefly the product of a major remodelling completed in 1865 by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt (1820-1877). Though the historical sources of inspiration, such as they are, derive mainly from ancient Egyptian and Roman architecture, all refracted through Outram’s distinctive and highly personal aesthetic, the bright colour, vivid patterning and bold forms pay oblique homage to the Italian Romanesque of Wyatt’s design.
I cannot help thinking that the dearth of heirs to Goodhart-Rendel in some respects springs from the failure of many architects to see the continuation of older traditions as being motivated by something much more profound than an unending Battle of the Styles. The key to this is St Olaf’s House. It is remarkable not only in Goodhart-Rendel’s own output but also in the context of the time. Architecture has always tended to be tribal, but at few times more so than in the 20th century, when the rise of modernism sharply polarised the profession. You could be, say, a Neo-Georgian who occasionally dabbled in Gothic, but if you were a traditionalist then you were not supposed to stray into the territory of the rival camp. That Goodhart-Rendel did is because of his unique mindset, which married a rationalist outlook to a certain scepticism. When at Hays Wharf he adopted an architectural language that clearly owed nothing to any century other than the twentieth, he did so because it suited his requirements for meeting the brief rather than out of evangelical fervour. Despite its success, he remained ambivalent about the very notion of modernism. ‘New or old in style? It will all soon be old, and neither better nor worse for that’, he replied when asked for his view of the Exhibition of British Art in Industry of 1935.
Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Rosary RC Church, Old Marylebone Road, London: the 15 tiled panels depicting the Mysteries of the Rosary in the spaces between the six lancets date from 1966. They were designed by Joseph Ledger, hand-painted by Phyllis Butler and produced by Carter & Co. of Poole, who also supplied the patterned blue and grey glazed tiling for the chancel dado, which includes Marian symbols. The flooring and altar date from a reordering of 2005. (Des Hill)
Yet his view of the architecture of the Middle Ages and, one infers, the 19th century was every bit as guarded. ‘Only those forms shall be embodied for which the reason is still completely valid’, he said of the design for Prinknash Abbey. ‘All styles of the past are to be ignored, except insofar as the causes from which they spring are still active’. Goodhart-Rendel’s architecture is unpredictable: each one of his buildings is a fresh response to the challnges posed by the commission and the site, each design represents the fruit of serious consideration of the relation of plan, function and structure to form. Style is attained as part of the solution to the brief; it is not a veneer to be applied at will to dress up construction. Even if a familiar language is employed, it is manipulated to express new ideas. To engage with and reinterpret for the modern age the legacy of the 19th century involves engaging with it at a conceptual level. So too, of course, should doing likewise for the classical language of architecture, but that, for better or for worse (and usually the latter), is more easily reduced to a series of formulaic devices and details. This more cerebral engagement remains a rare approach among British architects working in a traditionalist vein. The few practitioners who have attempted it have all been gadflies and the results of their efforts highly idiosyncratic, with no imitators among their peers or followers among the succeeding generation. Thus it is that the historian of the Victorian ‘rogues’ showed himself to be one of their own kind. It is an outcome that might well have pleased the man himself.
Exterior of the south passage aisle at St John the Evangelist, St Leonards-on-Sea
One is the former London office of a firm that produced vinegar and fortified wines. The other is a speculative development of townhouses aimed at the affluent middle classes. Fairly mundane projects typical of the 19th century, one might think; typical, indeed, of hundreds such up and down the country, brought into being by the commercial and demographic expansion of the period. Yet little Victorian architecture elicits such strong reactions or has prompted quite so much speculation about the intentions and moral qualities of the designer as Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap in the City of London and Milner Square in Islington. It would, I think, be fair to say that the reputation of both works precedes that of their creators. Indeed, judgements pronounced on both works by 20th century commentators stick in the mind more firmly than the names of the architects. For Ian Nairn, the former was ‘truly demoniac, an Edgar Allan Poe of a building’, and ‘the scream you wake on at the end of a nightmare’. For John Summerson writing in Georgian London, the latter invited similar metaphors. The architecture had ‘an unreal and tortured quality’, and ‘It is possible to visit Milner Square many times and still not be absolutely certain that you have seen it anywhere but in an unhappy dream’.
Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, City of London, formerly Boar’s Head Chambers and built as the London office and warehouse of Hill, Evans & Co
It should come as no surprise that the architect of both buildings, Robert Lewis Roumieu (1814-1877), was included by H.S. Goodhart-Rendel in his lecture of 1949, Rogue Architects of the Victorian Era. Yet in contrast to the astonishment and admiration expressed towards other architects whose work he surveyed in it, he viewed Roumieu and his sometime collaborator Gough with sniffy disdain. ‘In any serious history of English architecture Roumieu would be a negligible figure… his aesthetic rakishness for all its violence is eventually dull’. For him, both men’s work was less the stuff of nightmares than puerile attention-seeking: ‘in general either singly or together, they seldom fail to be vulgar without being either funny or interesting’. In my post on the buildings of the Foxwarren Estate, I pondered the motives imputed to certain Victorian architects and cautioned on the need when assessing their work to withhold reactions conditioned by extra-architectural associations, which sometimes arise from 20th century popular culture.
Robert Lewis Roumieu (oil on canvas) by J. Desanois from the collections of The French Hospital in Rochester, Kent
Contemporary accounts are often far more revealing, and so it is in the case of Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap. The Building News of 25th September 1868 praised the building as an authentic expression of its time. It was ‘English Gothic of the middle of the nineteenth century, and not bad Gothic at that. […] We are far from saying it is perfect, or, indeed, any great way on the road to perfection, but it is an honest and earnest effort’. While the anonymous commentator felt that the architect was guilty of indulging his client’s extravagance, criticism was aimed more at the indiscriminate juxtaposition of devices that he ought to have recognised belonged exclusively to the domain either of timber-framed or masonry architecture of the Middle Ages. But though ‘[we] do not care to see the principles mixed’, the author conceded that ‘we should be glad to see three or four dozen buildings designed with as much care and carried out with as much skill’. The construction was praised as ‘scientific’ and the hand crane with an extendable jib for lowering casks into the basement storeroom was viewed with as much admiration as any architectural feature.
The east side of Milner Square, Islington, viewed from the northern end
Rhetoric and conjecture can sometimes lead the architectural historian astray. So too can assessing a building in isolation from its architect’s career. For all the ink spilt about Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap and Milner Square, comparatively little attention has been paid to the remainder of Roumieu and Gough’s output. Whatever the inferences made about their creators’ underlying temperament, these two works are sufficiently different stylistically to suggest considerable variety in expression, and they make one curious about their context. Where did such alarmingly original architecture spring from? What else did Roumieu and Gough design? Were they Goths, Classicists, or both? And do Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap and Milner Square – or did they ever – have counterparts elsewhere? The aim of this post is to provide answers to some of these questions.
Detail of the west elevation of the tower of St Mark’s, Broadwater Down in Tunbridge Wells
Background and training
Roumieu was born into a family of Huguenot extraction, which reputedly originated from Languedoc and had settled in Britain as part of the first wave of Protestant emigration following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV. His grandfather Abraham Roumieu (1734-1780) was an architect, who in 1748 served part of his apprenticeship with Isaac Ware (1704-1766). In 1766-1767 Abraham Roumieu produced a scheme jointly with John Adam (1721-1792), commissioned by the 4th Duke of Gordon, for remodelling the medieval Gordon Castle in Morayshire, Scotland. This survives in the National Archives of Scotland, but was never carried out and indeed no executed works by Abraham Roumieu have so far been identified. Robert Roumieu’s architectural training seems to have begun in 1831, when he was articled to the eldest son of James Wyatt, Benjamin Dean Wyatt (1755-1855), who in the 1810s-1820s had a flourishing practice in London. This had begun with the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane: a competition was held in 1811 to find a design for a rebuilding following the destruction of the previous theatre by fire in 1809, and Wyatt emerged victorious. Two years later, he succeeded his father as surveyor to the fabric of Westminster Abbey, a post which he held until 1827, but, with this exception, he did not involve himself in ecclesiastical architecture, specialising mainly in country house work. In London, he handled a number of commissions for townhouses and club buildings. He produced an unexecuted design for a palace for the Duke of Wellington and, jointly with his younger brother Philip, in 1828-1829 remodelled Apsley House on Piccadilly, the Duke’s London home. When Roumieu was serving his articles, Wyatt was working on the Duke of York’s column in Carlton Gardens.
An undated colour sketch, labelled ‘Drawing of Ornament’ and, at the bottom ‘Robert Louis Roumieu for Students Ticket’, which exemplifies the architect’s superb draughtsmanship. (RIBA Collections)
Elevation of what is described in the caption as a ‘Design for New Houses of British Legislature’, part of a series of drawings showing a proposal for rebuilding the Palace of Westminster following the fire of 1834. Much remains to be elucidated about this scheme – whether it was Roumieu’s work alone, or a joint project by him and Gough, and whether it was actually entered in the competition of 1836, which the Royal Commission tasked with the rebuilding project had stipulated should be in a Gothic or Elizabethan style.
In 1836, Roumieu set up a partnership with Alexander Dick Gough (1804-1871), who had also been a pupil of Wyatt, rising to sufficient prominence in the office to be entrusted with superintending several of the practice’s more important works, including Apsley House and the Duke of York’s column. The new firm was based on Regent Square in St Pancras and most of its commissions were for sites within a fairly narrow radius of this address. Wyatt was a practitioner of a grand but not especially adventurous brand of neo-classicism. By contrast, his former pupils quickly revealed themselves to have idiosyncratic and strongly individual architectural personalities.
Roumieu and Gough the classicists
The earliest building to be executed by the partnership was built in c. 1837 on a site just off Upper Street in the centre of what at that date was in the process of rapid transformation from a village to an inner suburb of London. It was the premises of the Islington Literary and Scientific Society, which had been established four years previously to spread knowledge through lectures, discussions, and experiments. The project was the first major commission of William Spencer Dove (1793-1869), an Islington builder whose sons in 1852 formed the Dove Brothers partnership, a prolific contractor which worked with numerous prominent 19th century architects, including, as we have seen, Bassett Keeling. The Institute’s facilities comprised an extensive library, a reading room, a museum, a laboratory and a lecture theatre. The street front was symmetrical and handled in a stripped classical manner. To modern eyes, this prefigures much official architecture of the 1930-1950s, but it had been born out of the Greek Revival and prototypes such as the Choragic Monument of Thrasyllus, which had been illustrated in Nicholas Stuart and James Revett’s The Antiquities of Athens.
Presentation drawing showing the street front of the Islington Literary and Scientific Institution as originally designed (RIBA Collections)The auditorium of the Islington Literary and Scientific Institution as built – it extended downwards to basement level and the two Ionic columns marked the far end of the spine corridor running back from the street entrance.
The street front is a nervous and restless composition, which packs a great deal into a small amount of space. The openings – doors, windows, even blind openings – all of them trabeated, are deeply recessed and unusually narrow in relation to their height, often being only slightly greater in width than the pilaster strips that divide them. It seems that this architectural language was continued into the auditorium, which seated 500. The walls were blind and the space was lit directly only by an elegant oval roof lantern very much in the manner of Soane, although borrowed light also reached it from the first-floor library, which communicated with the auditorium through a double screen. This incorporated a pair of Ionic columns on the inward-facing side, the visual impact of their sculptural forms much amplified by the severely rectilinear modelling of the wall surfaces and ceiling. Now listed at Grade II, the building survives and since the early 1980s has been home to the Almeida Theatre, but it has been considerably altered internally. It ceased to be used for its original purpose in 1874 and subsequently went through a variety of uses, including a spell lasting from 1890 until 1955 when it was a citadel of the Salvation Army, which turned around the auditorium by 180 degrees so that the seating was focused on the end of the building furthest from the street.
Ground floor plan of the Islington Literary and Scientific Institution as built (RIBA Collections)
The active development of the rural northern fringes of London with new suburbs of housing aimed at middle-class buyers provided extensive opportunities for architects, which Roumieu and Gough were evidently quick to exploit. In c. 1839, work began on a development at Nos. 96-108 Tollington Park in Holloway. Going by what can be deduced from map evidence and what survives on the ground, it seems that the concept was based on a symmetrical plan with a central detached villa flanked by two pairs of semi-detached villas. Although they appear at first glance to constitute a group of discrete masses, the villas in fact form a continuous range, being joined to each other by lower service wings on semi-basements. None is listed and they have been subjected over the years to numerous unsympathetic alterations, which have eroded much of the original detail, while the northernmost pair has been completely lost. But the architectural language, based on breaking up the façade into narrow subdivisions through the liberal use of pilaster strips to form a pattern of deep blind and glazed recesses (the effect is underscored by the use in the latter of sashes with margin lights) can be appreciated at No. 104, the centrepiece of the composition, which appears still to reflect well the architects’ intentions. Here, the triplets of arched windows that are one of the signature traits of Victorian Italianate put in an appearance at first-floor level.
Nos. 102-106 Tollington Park
The already idiosyncratic architectural language in evidence in these two commissions was taken to an extreme when Roumieu and Gough embarked on Milner Square in Islington. This was the final stage in the development of an estate on the west side of Upper Street belonging to Thomas Milner Gibson, which occupied an area enclosed by Theberton Street to the south, Barnsbury Street to the north and Liverpool Road to the west. Development began in the 1820s, but proceeded slowly. Milner Square seems to have been laid out in c. 1827, but the sites on the east side were not leased to builders for development until the 1840s and the ensemble was only completed in the 1850s. The holdings of the lessees were scattered and development correspondingly piecemeal and uncoordinated, with the exception of William Spencer Dove, who had 44 houses – the only unbroken run anywhere on the estate – some workshops and building land on Milner Square. The square is positioned on a north-south axis and elongated in plan, its length being roughly twice that of its width. There is access from Barnsbury Street to the north and Gibson Square to the south.
The east side of Milner Square
Whatever emotional reactions Milner Square provokes, it unquestionably marks a very radical departure from the architectural treatment of terraced townhouses that had prevailed in London for most of the long 18th century. The most striking feature is the way in which individual dwellings are subsumed into the whole. Whereas designers of a previous generation might have adopted such a tactic for the sake of a grand overall controlling composition – say, a portico embracing the properties at the centre of a long symmetrical façade – here the treatment of the elevations is based on repeated units and indeed, above ground-floor level the bays are all identical. The architectural language is familiar from the former Literary and Scientific Institute (located only a stone’s throw to the west) and again has a strongly vertical emphasis, with the elevations at first-floor and second-floor level divided up into strips that are dizzyingly tall in relation to their width. All the openings are trabeated, with the exception of the attic windows, which are arched, but these are so narrow and the curves of the arches so subsidiary to the effect as a whole that they provide little relief. With the exception of the continuous frieze and cornice marking off the attic storey and blocking course above, every part of the elevation is in continual restless movement as an endless series of advancing and receding planes. Though one might opt for the term ‘neo-classical’ if pushed to affix a stylistic tag, conventional terminology for parsing such designs is of little help in rationally analysing the visual impact. It is perhaps this, together with the sense that it is all too easy to imagine how the vertical units might appear if repeated ad infinitum, which explains why Milner Square has provoked such extreme reactions. ‘It is as near to expressing evil as a design can be’, wrote Ian Nairn.
General view of Milner Square looking north towards Barnsbury Street
Yet conceivably, this is to some extent the result of accident as much as design. It was common at the period for major new residential developments to have their own place of worship and the Gibson Estate was no exception, with a proprietary chapel and a school built in c. 1830 flanking the entrance to Milner Square from Barnsbury Street to the west and east respectively. Aerial photographs show that the chapel was an unassuming, box-like structure that did not rise above the parapet of the adjacent houses. The school, which was designed by John Newman (1786-1859), was a plain classical design with Georgian Gothick fenestration that was subsequently much enlarged. Neither was a major architectural statement and both have been demolished. It seems that when the western side of Milner Square was at the planning stage, a new church was mooted to supersede the existing proprietary chapel. A perspective drawing of the street front in the collection of the RIBA depicts a florid Greek Revival design, which would have given the square an imposing focus and challenged the monotony of the elevations. An inscription on the drawing records that it was intended to be built in the middle of the west side, to occupy a site 60 ft (18.3m) in breadth and 90ft (27.4m) in depth, and to provide seating for 1,000 worshippers. The design is undated, but Roumieu gives his address as Lancaster Place, which means that it cannot be earlier than 1845 when the practice moved there from Regent Square. This was, coincidentally, the same year that he became a fellow of the RIBA.
The street front of St Mark’s, North Audley Street in Mayfair, pictured soon after completion
The street front seems to have been influenced by that of St Mark’s, North Audley Street in Mayfair, built in 1825-1828 to the design of J.P. Gandy (1787-1850), although the model is much elaborated. The whole portico in antis is brought forward, the columns are Composite rather than Ionic, and above there is a small pediment with antefixae, while the debt of the bell turret to the Tower of the Winds is more pronounced. Again, there is a patent mania for breaking up every part of the elevation into tall and narrow subdivisions and a fascination with layered surfaces and spaces. This same fascination is in evidence in the view of the interior, also held in the RIBA collection, where similar devices are used to create a mysterious, somewhat indeterminate space behind the pulpit, which forms the visual focus of an otherwise austerely rational and severely rectilinear design. Why the Milner Square church was never executed is currently unknown, but several elements of the street front were recycled in an even more florid design forming part of an apparently unexecuted scheme for a Protestant church in Versailles. This was perhaps the Anglican church on rue Hoche, established in 1821 in a chapel originally built for Catholic worship, and shared from 1828 onwards with French Protestants. The design of the neighbouring buildings, which (assuming this is the same site) are entirely the result of artistic licence. suggests a date a good 10-20 years after the Milner Square scheme, but nothing of the circumstances of this commission is currently known.
Undated scheme by Roumieu for a Protestant church in Versailles, monochrome reproduction of a colour presentation drawing: the RIBA Collection holds another version of the scheme, showing an identical frontage, but with a very English-looking townhouse to the right. The relation to each other of the two deigns has yet to be elucidated.
The rapid development of the northern fringes of London at the time when the Roumieu and Gough practice was active in the area makes it at plausible that there is more residential work by them awaiting discovery, attribution and study. The National Heritage List for England ascribes to Roumieu Nos. 13-19 Craven Road and Nos 1-18 Spring Street in the vicinity of Paddington Station – conjecturally and on the basis of the treatment of the elevations, which have slight affinities with Milner Square. The dating is uncertain, which leaves open the question of whether (assuming the attribution is accurate) the design was the work of the partnership or Roumieu on his own. We are on firmer ground with the alterations carried out in 1840-1841 to The Priory in Roehampton, the Georgian Gothick mansion which at that date was the residence of the barrister, judge and MP Sir James Lewis Knight-Bruce (1791-1866), now better known as a private hospital treating mental illness and substance abuse. The partnership carried out extensions to the existing building and a design for a fireplace combined with bookcases is held in the RIBA collection.
Roumieu and Gough do Norman, Gothic and Tudor
The choice of Gothic for the additions to The Priory was presumably conditioned by the style of the existing fabric. But it was in any case rare in the 1830s-1840s for any practitioner to be exclusively a classicist, and Roumieu and Gough designed in the wide range of styles of which architects at the time were expected to have a command. They showed themselves to be every bit as outlandish in their interpretation of the architectural language of the Middle Ages as they were with that of Classical Antiquity. In 1842, they were engaged to carry out alterations to St Peter’s Church in Islington, built in 1834-1835 on a site about half way between Islington Green and the Regent’s Canal as a chapel-of-ease to the old parish church of St Mary. It was the work of Sir Charles Barry (1795-1860) and evidently built on a rock-bottom budget, for even by the standards of the time it was starkly plain – a stock-brick preaching box in a lancet style with minimal gothic detailing. Roumieu and Gough added a new entrance front to Devonia Road with a bell tower, transepts and a short chancel, perhaps aimed at giving greater dignity to what in 1839 had become a parish church in its own right.
Former church of St Peter, Islington, viewed from the junction of St Peter’s Street and Devonia Road
The additions to the main body of the building were similar to Barry’s original fabric and barely any more elaborate, although the triple lancets in the east wall were handsomely shafted internally, along with the chancel arch, and the chancel ceiling was vaulted in plaster. But the additions to the west end were downright startling. The entrance front of Barry’s chapel had had a tall, cavernous arch. Perhaps it was this that suggested the addition of an outer screen wall to give the triple lancets (which were not present in the original design) exaggerated depth. Then again, this may equally well have been a product of the fascination with layered space and openings that we have already seen in the scheme for the Milner Square church. What looks at first sight like a porch is in fact yet another screen wall, with cusped details and shafting to the main portal and triple openings either side to create a visual focus. The central arch is filled with what must be cast iron tracery, which descends to a hanging pendant. This is still Georgian Gothick in spirit, and, as such, not wholly unexpected for the date. But the extraordinary steeple shows free invention taken to an alarming extreme. A tall, thin narrow core rises to a spire in the form of an obelisk with chamfered corners, the upward flow unchecked by any cornices or string courses. Enormous cruciform buttresses extend from each corner, rising in the upper stages to turrets, from which flying buttresses spring inwards as if to stop the crazily attenuated belfry and spire from tottering over. On Grantbridge Street at the rear of the site, Roumieu and Gough added a school building. What survives today is plain, stylistically rather nondescript and appears to have been much altered (the church was declared redundant in 1982 and the complex turned over to other uses). But a drawing in the RIBA collection depicts an imposing essay in neo-Elizabethan, delivered with enough concern for archaeological accuracy to give it a conviction rare for the date and manner. The view also shows the chancel as more elaborate than what was eventually built, with pretty Geometrical Decorated tracery in the east window. This suggests that the design represents an earlier version of the scheme, which had to be simplified in execution, perhaps on grounds of cost, but the precise sequence of events awaits elucidation.
The chancel of St Peter’s, Islington, pictured before the church was made redundant and the interior subdivided – the fittings visible in this shot dated from a reordering of 1884. (Historic England)
Drawings in the RIBA collection show experiments with neo-Norman that are every bit as outlandish as Roumieu and Gough’s flight of fancy with Early English. One of them is the usual early-Victorian preaching box, but adorned with an attenuated tower and spire to one side of the main front, with a tall, arched central entrance leading into a lofty vestibule, through which an impressive portal can be seen with a wheel window above. The surroundings suggest that the design was envisaged for a rural location. The other is for a larger building in what appears to be a suburban setting. The tower is more substantial and crowned by a cupola instead of a spire, while close inspection of the view suggests that a separate, perhaps apsidal chancel was intended. Again, the entrance takes the form of an tall arched recess in the main front. Individual motifs, such as the portals of several orders, shafted wall arcading with cushion capitals and the corbel tables, have good archaeological precedent, but they are composed with great freedom and applied to forms which at the period were equally likely to be translated into Classical or Gothic. The dates of these designs remain unknown (those suggested in the on-line catalogue entries are clearly spurious) and it is unclear whether they ever got off the drawing board.
The belfry and spire of the former church of St Peter, Islington
But the partnership did get a chance to demonstrate its flair for neo-Norman design when it was called upon to enlarge the old church of St Pancras in 1847-1848. In the 18th century, this was still a village church in a largely rural setting, but the construction of the New Road (subsequently Euston Road) in the mid-1750s dramatically changed that. Over the following decades, central London expanded outwards through Bloomsbury and spilled across it to the north. New squares and streets were laid out and the existing tiny building quickly became inadequate for the much increased population. In 1819-1822 a lavish, grandly-scaled new parish church was built on Euston Square to a Greek Revival design by William Inwood (c. 1771-1843) and his son, Henry William Inwood (1794-1843). The old church was demoted to the status of a chapel, but the population of the neighbourhood continued to expand and the decision was then taken to increase its capacity. In an article published on 21st October 1848, The Illustrated London News reported that, whereas the old building could seat a maximum of 125, following the completion of the remodelling, that figure had been raised to 750. The choice of Roumieu and Gough for the commission is perhaps explained through their engagement by the parish in c. 1846 to erect new national schools on what is now Tankerton Street, a little to the north of Regent Square. A view in the RIBA collection shows an original and effective piece of neo-Tudor design – a considerable advance on the effort in the same manner from four years previously for a combined Free Church and Schools on Paradise Street (now Wicklow Street) a short distance away. The chimney stacks are handled very emphatically, especially the pair that rises from the junction of the main block and the cross wing. The school was short-lived, being demolished in the early 1890s for the construction of a residential complex by the East End Dwellings Company.
The rebuilt old church of St Pancras, as pictured by The Illustrated London News shortly after the completion of work in 1848
The medieval church of St Pancras was a simple, two-cell structure with a stout west tower. This was demolished and the nave extended out over its footprint, the addition clearly distinguished by being narrower than the original nave, while a new tower, which housed a baptistry in its base, was raised on the south side. The work was carried out by W.S. Dove. Some of the detailing, such as the west portal, was surprisingly grand for a such a diminutive building, but this was tempered by the self-consciously picturesque effect of the irregular massing, with the tower set well back and another volume housing the gallery stairs projecting from the south side in front of it. The building was fitted with stained glass by Gibbs & Co. and there was a reredos of blind arcading containing Decalogue Boards against the east wall. Otherwise, the interior did not make quite as proud a show, the result of stringencies imposed by the limited budget (the existing roof structure had to be largely reused, albeit with decorative texts from Scripture applied to the beams) and the nave was dominated by the galleries necessary to provide the extra seating. Roumieu and Gough’s conception is difficult to appreciate today as the church subsequently underwent several major alterations. In 1888 it was refurnished and in 1925 what remained of the galleries was removed, the gallery stairs were partly dismantled and the spire and belfry stage of the tower were replaced by the present half-timbered confection. The east window was partly blocked and all the stained glass by Gibbs has been removed.
The interior of the old church of St Pancras, as rebuilt by Roumieu and Gough, pictured in 1854 (London Metropolitan Archive)
Like many architects of the time, Roumieu and Gough were involved in surveying. This could be a lucrative line of business, thanks not only to the rapid development of London and other major cities, but also to the expansion of the railway network. As an engineer, Gough made surveys in 1845, partly on his own account and partly in conjunction with Roumieu, for the Exeter, Dorchester, and Weymouth Junction Coast Railway; for the Direct West-End and Croydon Railway; and for the Dover, Deal, Sandwich, and Ramsgate Direct Coast Railway. Roumieu held a number of surveyorships in his own right, including to the Gas, Light and Coke Company’s Estate at Beckton, where what became one of the biggest gasworks in the world commenced production in 1870. More research is needed to ascertain what these posts entailed, but an insight into this aspect of the partnership’s practice is given by the furnace chimney 140ft (42.7m) high that they designed for Messrs Johnson’s ironworks at Cubitt Town in Millwall, which specialized in converting scrap from naval dockyards into rods and bars.
Roumieu goes solo
The conservatory at Whitbourne Hall, Worcestershire: slotted into one side of the U-shaped service courtyard at the rear of the house, the conservatory dominates and closes off one end of the south west-facing elevation overlooking the grassed terrace and pleasure grounds.
The remodelling of Old St Pancras may well have been the last commission to have been executed jointly by the two architects, since the partnership was dissolved in 1848. Gough went on to become a prolific designer of churches, many of them in the suburbs of north London, including St Mark’s in Tollington Park, only a short distance from Nos. 96-108. He also restored a number of ancient ones. Roumieu seems to have cast his net somewhat wider and though ecclesiastical commissions figure in his output, they were clearly not the mainstay of his practice. He remained involved in domestic design but seems to have shifted his focus from residential development to large suburban residences and also took on a limited amount of country house work.
The interior of the conservatory at Whitbourne Hall: the roof trusses and glazing were removed in the mid-20th century, reputedly after becoming unsafe, but the shell of the structure remains intact.
In c. 1865 he added a conservatory to Whitbourne Hall in Worcestershire, the residence of Edward Bickerton Evans (1819-1893). Evans was a proprietor of one of the largest vinegar breweries in the country, located in the centre of Worcester, but he was also an amateur archaeologist who had led an exhibition to Palmyra. It was perhaps this circumstance that dictated the choice of Greek Revival – by that point distinctly outmoded for country houses – when Whitbourne Hall was built in 1860-1862 to the design of local architect Edmund Wallace Elmslie (1818-1889). Why Evans decided to dispense with Elmslie’s services is currently unknown, but Roumieu supplied a design for the conservatory largely sympathetic in character to the existing fabric. He acquitted himself with aplomb in the difficult task of reconciling the massive, trabeated forms of ancient Greek architecture with the skeletal structure required to support the glazing and admit the maximum amount of light. Again, the stripped classical language of the Islington Institute is brought into play, although here the vertical members are whittled away almost to nothing, producing columns that are enormously tall in relation to their slender proportions.
Presentation drawing showing a design for a staircase at ‘a house in Streatham’: the house in question may well have been Manor Park, but the exact circumstances of this commission await discovery. The stripped classical architectural language is not only reminiscent of the conservatory at Whitbourne Hall, but also strikingly prefigures 20th century innovations. (RIBA Collections)
The circumstances of the Whitbourne Hall commission need to be stressed, because as far as it currently known, it represents a stylistic outlier in Roumieu’s work following the dissolution of the partnership with Gough. By the time he set up in practice on his own, he seems to have abandoned Greek Revival architecture and instead was concentrating on cultivating a very personal interpretation of the Italianate style popular at that period. This is evident in one of his first independent works, the lodge to Manor Park in Streatham, completed in 1849. New housing was beginning to encroach on the fringes of this estate occupying the angle formed by the junction of Mitcham Lane and Streatham High Road, and the main house would eventually be demolished for redevelopment in the 1880s. But at this date, the tide of suburbia was not yet in full flood and enough of the parkland was still extant for it to be turned into a public amenity, hence the need for a lodge to house an attendant. It was a substantial dwelling with four bedrooms and two sitting rooms, and it boasted a tower, 70ft (21.3m) in height with a viewing platform at the top, from which, The Builder reported (issue of 7th April 1849), ‘on a clear day Epsom, Harrow-on-the-Hill and Highgate can be seen without the aid of a glass’. Picturesquely composed Italianate villas were common enough in the 1840s and 1850s; what sets this one aside is the almost grotesque attenuation of the tower and peculiar overscaled chimneys, not to mention also the exaggerated blocking to the voussoirs of the arch of the elongated Serliana of the tiny gatehouse in the centre of the roadway. The lodge was located where the main drive leading into the park diverged from Mitcham Lane. It was demolished around 1925 for the construction of the Manor Arms pub, which now occupies the site.
The entrance lodge to Manor Park in Streatham, as pictured in The Builder of 7th April 1849 Undated perspective view in pencil (incomplete presentation drawing?) for a lodge with curving screen walls in an Italianate style – the circumstances of the commission and whether it was executed are not currently known. (RIBA Collections)
Similar exaggerations and distortions of the language of Victorian Italianate are in evidence in an unexecuted scheme for a bell tower for the church of All Saints, Ennismore Gardens in Knightsbridge (now the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Dormition). This church was built in 1848-1849 to a design in an early Christian manner by Lewis Vulliamy (1791-1871). A sketch in the RIBA collection shows that Vulliamy proposed a tall campanile based closely on Italian models, but funds were in short supply and it fell victim to economies. Roumieu’s flamboyant scheme (undated, though one suspects no later than the 1850s) with its strange, gangly proportions took far greater liberties with historical precedents. The designer mixed in classical detailing, such as the rustication of the lowest storey with its over-pronounced batter, with archaeologically correct but rather exaggerated Romanesque detailing, such as the deep corbel table running below the cornice. The arch piercing the lowermost storey has the strange blocking already encountered at Streatham and seems to be carried on clustered pilaster strips. How the brightly patterned surface of the pyramidal spire was intended to be achieved – glazed tiles or some kind of painted metal surface? – is a mystery. The bell tower was finally constructed in 1891-1892 to a design by Charles Harrison Townsend.
Unexecuted and currently undated scheme by Roumieu for the bell tower of All Saints, Ennismore Gardens in Knightsbridge (RIBA Collections)
Alternative scheme by Roumieu for the bell tower of All Saints, Ennismore Gardens in Knightsbridge (RIBA Collections)
An equally capricious interpretation of mid-Victorian Italianate is in evidence in two perspectives held in the RIBA collection depicting designs for what appear to be large suburban villas. Both are asymmetrical and picturesquely composed with low towers, and both stand on peculiar flared and rusticated plinths reminiscent of the Ennismore Gardens campanile. In this one, the tower turns octagonal at first-floor level and the transformation is echoed by the chamfered corner of the adjacent return, from which a chimney breast emerges. In another, which boats a handsome conservatory, the attic spaces are lit by bizarre tiny windows which pierce the cornice between the brackets supporting the eaves. Nothing is currently known of either scheme and it is possible that neither was executed. But the wilful interpretation of the style is consistent with ‘The Limes’, a mansion built in 1851 on a site just off Wood Lane on the east side of Stanmore in Middlesex. The garden front is relatively conventional, but the entrance front is nothing if not original, with its off-centre porch, the adjacent bizarrely shaped chimney breast, eccentrically disposed fenestration (note the long row of small arched windows at ground-floor level) and strange forms breaking through the wall surface.
The entrance front of The Limes in Stanmore
Elevations of proposed stables for a Mr Macmurray of Esher in Surrey (RIBA Collections)
A design of 1853 for the shop of Breidenbach, a firm of perfumers and toilet soap makers based at 157B New Bond Street, shows how Roumieu’s Italianate style could lend itself effectively to interior design. No. 147 Hornsey Road, a substantial house of 1860, is tentatively attributed to Roumieu (erroneously stated as still being in partnership with Gough) in the list description, but is relatively sedate compared to works such as The Limes, with a symmetrical entrance front. Latterly used as the vicarage of Emmanuel Church, built over part of the grounds in 1884, on the 1870-1871 1:1,056 Ordnance Survey it is called ‘Tyrolese Cottage’.
Design for the interior of Briedenbach’s shop on New Bond Street (RIBA Collections)
Roumieu the Rogue Goth
General view from south of St Mary’s, Kensworth in Bedfordshire: this is one of Roumieu’s few works to retain the patterned slate covering to the roof, a favourite device of his. (Peter O’Connor)
In 1856, Roumieu restored the church of St Mary in Kensworth (formerly Hertfordshire, transferred to Bedfordshire in 1897), a largely Norman two-cell building with a later medieval west tower. Little is known of the scheme, which does not seem to be documented, but it evidently involved reroofing the nave, signalled by the patterns worked into the slate covering externally and the unusual roof structure internally, with diagonal braces running from the purlins to the arched braces and wall plates. All that is stridently High Victorian, but the stables that he added to Franks Hall in Horton Kirby near Swanley in Kent as part of his remodelling in 1860-1861 are relatively tame neo-Tudor. The additions to the late Elizabethan main house, such as the new staircase, are stylistically deferential to the older fabric. It seems that Roumieu did not adopt Gothic in earnest until well into the decade and the change in direction would seem to be marked by St Michael’s, Bingfield Street in Barnsbury, located a little to the north of King’s Cross station, established as a daughter church of St Andrew’s, Thornhill Square. Built in 1863-1864, it was a typical High Victorian town church, built of brick and incorporating vividly striped constructional polychromy in the window heads and arches of the nave arcades. There were lean-to aisles and a tower was evidently intended at the west end of that on the south side. The church does not survive, having been demolished in the early 1980s following redundancy in 1973.
The exterior of St Michael’s, Bingfield Street (Historic England)The interior of St Michael’s, Bingfield Street looking east (Historic England)
Many of the devices used at St Michael’s were stock-in-trade of any architect of the time and, apart from some wilful touches in the detailing, the design was not especially memorable. But it set the scene for a series of more powerful statements, the first of which was St Mark’s, Broadwater Down, a suburb on the southern edge of Tunbridge Wells, built in 1864-1866 at the expense of the Earl of Abergavenny. In some respects it is a typical High Victorian Middle-Pointed church for an affluent suburb, but the exterior is full of idiosyncratic touches and this reaches its apogee in the extraordinary steeple. The middle stages of the tower are lit by sinister-looking pointed slits and sound is emitted from the belfry through rows of circular, oval and triangular holes. As much as possible of the wall surface between the corner buttresses is broken up into a restless array of steeply pitched set-offs and advancing and receding planes. Starting from the peak of the gable over the main entrance, a strange, mullion-like form runs the height of and bisects the elevation, going through all manner of geometrical transformations and turning half-way up into an attached shaft that itself is broken by a clock face carried on an angel corbel. It emerges at the top through the surface of the base of the spire as a peculiar, lucarne-like form. The grand interior is full of over-ripe foliate carving but, despite some inventive detailing, is not as strongly personal as the tower. Roumieu designed a substantial vicarage located on St Mark’s Road to the south of church. Whether the stable block was executed in accordance with the design held by the RIBA is unclear; at any rate, it seems to have been much altered in the 20th century.
General view from south of St Mark’s, Broadwater Down in Tunbridge Wells: note the patterned slate covering to the roof.
Long section looking south of St Mark’s, Broadwater Down – presentation drawing from Roumieu’s office (RIBA Collections)
St Mark’s was followed by the French Hospital on Victoria Park Road in south Hackney, built in 1864-1865. The name is slightly misleading – it was a hospital not in the modern but in the medieval sense. It owed its inception to a Huguenot by the name of Gastigny, who on his death in 1708 bequeathed £1,000 towards the foundation of an institution to care for elderly, sick and impoverished French Protestants who had settled in London following the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. This eventually opened in 1718 at a site on what became Bath Street on the northern edge of the City, then in open country, and it was known by London Huguenots as La Providence. As the community got itself on a surer footing, the number of patients and inmates dwindled, but the situation changed after Waterloo, when a wave of cheap imports threatened the silk-weaving industry in which many Huguenots were engaged. The directors of the French Hospital (Roumieu himself was among them, also holding the post of surveyor to its estate) decided to capitalise on the commercial value of the Bath Street site, which was now in a heavily built-up area, and used the income from the leases on it to purchase 3¼ acres near Victoria Park in what were then semi-rural surroundings. The site had originally formed part of the grounds of a large house, and the new premises of the French Hospital bore more than a passing resemblance to a stately home, being set back from the road in spacious grounds with a lodge house at the main entrance.
General view of the main front to Victoria Park Road of the French Hospital, as illustrated in The Builder of 2nd June 1866Ground plan of the French Hospital, as illustrated in The Builder of 2nd June 1866The main corridor of the French Hospital at ground-floor level, looking towards the doorway of the board-room (Historic England)
The plan was roughly cruciform, with a long spine corridor running east-west, which rose the full height of the building, had galleries at first-floor level and was top-lit. On the ground floor it ran from a board-room at the west end to a chapel at the east end. In the centre, an entrance hall on the south side and a staircase on the north side communicated with it. The basement was occupied by service accommodation, while the day rooms, library, dining hall and other function rooms were located on the ground floor. Most of the first floor consisted of four-bed dormitories, with more extensive quarters for the steward occupying the prominent polygonal tower which rose above the main entrance.
The board room at the French Hospital (Historic England)The lodge by the main entrance from Victoria Park Road at the French Hospital, pictured prior to the remodelling of 1934 (Historic England)
Stylistically, the design mixed a number of influences. In the vertical emphasis, asymmetry, angular modelling of the forms and busy skyline, it was essentially High Victorian Gothic in spirit; explicitly so in the case of the chapel and certain aspects of detailing elsewhere, such as the portal of the main entrance, the roof dormers, the flèche rising from the ridge of the roof of the main tower, the cast-iron cresting and finials. But the diapering of the brickwork and mullion and transom windows owed more to the neo-Tudor of designs such as the St Pancras School. Some commentators, such as the author of the report on the new building that appeared in The Builder of 2nd June 1866 and the author of the list description, have wanted to see French influence in the design; certainly features such as the first-floor windows of the main front with their transverse gables or the acutely steeply pitched roofs have been borrowed from late French Gothic of the early 16th century, when it was already passing into Renaissance. The French Hospital sold the site in the late 1940s when it moved out to Rochester and it was acquired by a Roman Catholic order of nuns, who turned the building into a girls’ convent school. It later became a Roman Catholic secondary school and then eventually the Mossbourne Academy in 2014. The building survives relatively well inside and out, though the patterned slate covering of the roofs has long gone, the chimneys have been truncated, much of the decorative ironwork lost and the lodge building was reconstructed in simplified form in 1934, when part of the site was acquired for residential development by London County Council.
The main staircase at the French Hospital: note the separate flights for men and women, provided in accordance with the principle of segregation of the sexes on which the institution functioned. (Historic England)The interior of the chapel at the French Hospital (Historic England)
Yet despite the purported French influence, a number of devices in evidence at the French Hospital, such as the swept eaves, seem to have been more general Roumieu trademarks and they crop up elsewhere, such as in this design in the RIBA collection for a house in Bushey, to the southeast of Watford. Indeed, he seems to have used his High Victorian manner extensively for large suburban villas, such as ‘The Priory’ on Glencairn Road, just off The Ridgway in Wimbledon, built in 1866. It was well suited to irregular, rambling compositions and picturesque detailing, such as deep eaves and bargeboards. In these designs there are reminiscences of domestic architecture in the neo-Tudor and cottage orné styles that had been current several decades earlier. But for what – as far as is currently known – was his most important private house, Hillside on Brookshill in Harrow Weald, Roumieu adopted a distinctly strident and uncompromising manner. It was commissioned by Thomas Francis Blackwell (1838-1907), a director in the Crosse and Blackwell firm producing preserved foods and table sauces, and it was built for his daughter-in-law and her family.
The Priory, Wimbledon (listed as No. 70 Ridgway) The Cedars in Harrow Weald (undated)The tombs of Edmund Crosse (left) and the Blackwell family (right) in the churchyard of All Saints, Harrow Weald
The Blackwell connection was an important one for Roumieu: his obituary in The Builder records that he died at The Cedars in Harrow Weald, ‘the residence of his brother-in-law’. This was probably the elder Thomas Blackwell (1804-1880), who with Edmund Crosse (1804-1862) had in 1830 purchased the company originally known as West and Wyatt, where they had both been apprentices, and renamed it after themselves. In 1834, Blackwell married Ann Bernasconi of the Clock House, located just to the south of the Uxbridge Road between Harrow Weald and Hatch End, where he took up residence. He subsequently renamed the property and engaged Roumieu to remodel and enlarge it. The commission is recorded in Roumieu’s obituary in The Builder, although exactly what he did and when is currently unclear, and the building does not survive – it was demolished in the late 1950s after the estate was bought by London County Council for a development of council housing. Given the connection, it would not be surprising to find that Roumieu designed the monument to Edmund Crosse and his wife and the Blackwell family tomb in the churchyard of All Saints, Harrow Weald. Certainly it is plausible on stylistic grounds, although it wants documentary proof.
The garden front of Hillside, Harrow Weald, pictured in 1969 (London Metropolitan Archive)The main entrance of Hillside, Harrow Weald, pictured in 1969 (London Metropolitan Archive)
Hillside, located about half a mile away to the northeast of The Cedars, fared little better, also being disposed of by the Blackwells in the late 1950s. It was badly damaged by fire at some point between then and 1969, when it was recorded in a series of melancholy photographs in the collection of the London Metropolitan Archive. The house was a curious blend of neo-Jacobean motifs – such as the numerous Dutch gables and symmetrical composition of three of the bays of the garden front – with thoroughly High Victorian motifs in a muscular Rogue Gothic manner. The brickwork was banded, diapered and notched throughout. The entrance porch was set at an angle in the return of one of the rear wings, with a tiny quarter-turn oriel projecting above and a larger circular tower with a candle-snuffer roof to one side emerging from the end wall of the main garden front range. Some of the windows consisted of plate tracery, while the garden front was fenestrated with extraordinary two-storey bay windows, the upper storeys of which were jettied outwards like oriel windows. The ruins became progressively more dilapidated and overgrown until the site was redeveloped in the 2010s, with the by then scant remains of the old house being incorporated into a new block of flats. The stable block and coach house survives intact, however, and is listed at Grade II.
The rear front and (?)service wing of Hillside, Harrow Weald, pictured in 1974The surviving stable block and coach house at Hillside, Harrow Weald, pictured in 1974 (London Metropolitan Archive)
Hillside is the only building in Roumieu’s career that quite stands comparison with his most celebrated work, Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap. That was commissioned by Hill, Evans & Co – the vinegar-brewing concern in Worcester of which Edward Bickerton Evans of Whitbourne Hall was one of the proprietors – to replace their old London premises on Martin Lane, which had had to be demolished for the construction of the District Line. Given the demand for vinegar in the production of its numerous lines of pickles, it seems likely that Crosse and Blackwell had a close commercial relationship with Hill, Evans & Co, and one infers that the commission came about as a result of Roumieu’s marriage into the family. As explained in a lengthy preamble to the report on the new building in The Builder of 10th October 1868, the site was reputed to be that once occupied by Mistress Quickly’s Boar’s Head Tavern, which features prominently in Shakespeare’s Henry IV, Part 1. This was commemorated by a carved roundel of a boar’s head on the tympanum of the central window of the second floor. The building had to provide not only offices for the company, but also storage space, which The Builder explained was accommodated in two tiers of cellars below street level. How the remainder was arranged internally is not quite clear. The classic arrangement during the period for commercial buildings such as this was for the main street entrance to be located in the centre with the stairwell rising out of it, but here the corresponding position is occupied by what appears to be a vehicle entrance, filled with elaborate wrought iron gates. The illustration accompanying The Builder’s article shows doorways at street level reached by small flights of steps in both halves of the building, an arrangement altered in later years when the ground-floor accommodation was converted to shops.
Detail of the street front of Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap: note the roundel commemorating the Boar’s Head Inn which formerly occupied the site.
The report noted that ‘As the rooms were intended for offices in a narrow street in a city having a dull atmosphere, large openings for light become a necessity, and have been provided’. It stated that moulded ‘specials’ had been used for the brick arches (presumably those at third-floor and attic level) and that Tisbury stone had been used for the dressings. The carving was executed by sculptors Frampton and Williamson ‘from drawings by the architect, and is executed cleverly. Messrs Simpson did the external and internal tilework, and Messrs Peard and Jackson most of the ornamental ironwork, the whole of which was designed by the architect for this building’. The value of the contract, which had been awarded to Brown and Robinson, was given as £8,170. But despite the prolixity of the report, which expounded at some length on the output of the contemporary vinegar industry, The Builder was terse about the stylistic treatment of the building, describing it as ‘the Gothic of the south of France, with a little Venetian impress; and the design, if a little overdone, may be considered picturesque and original’.
Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, as pictured in The Builder of 10th October 1868
The design of Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap embodies several enduring preoccupations in Roumieu’s work, such as the love of attenuated forms and narrow subdivisions of the wall surface. A heightened interest in texture is also thrown into the mix, with cogged brickwork used for the tympana of the windows at attic level and cornice running below. The surfaces of the set-offs forming the sills of the windows at second-floor level have a ‘negative fish-scale’ pattern, executed in shallow relief. Even the intrados of each trefoil-headed opening of the canopies in front of them are adorned with diaper-work, while the lintel behind has a strip of foliate ornament. Not for the first time in a High Victorian building, the profusion and exuberance of the ornament give the architecture a temperamental kinship with the High Baroque.
Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, detail of the facade at second-floor level
With Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, Roumieu pushed his interpretation of High Victorian Gothic to an extreme. The danger with this line of development is that it potentially leads up a blind alley. Once replicated, such an aesthetic compromises its own individuality, and shock tactics can only be deployed to full effect once. But something of it re-emerged at least once, this time on a slightly smaller scale, with another commission for commercial properties in the City of London at Nos. 48-49 Cheapside, located on the south side of the street and a little to the west of the church of St Mary-le-Bow. Here, Roumieu was engaged to design new premises at addresses which had previously been occupied by two houses thrown up in haste following the Great Fire of 1666, as explained in The Builder of 26th September 1874. As with the report of six years earlier on Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, the report holds forth at great length on the history of the site and its environs at the expense of its ostensible subject. It does, however, disclose that initially Roumieu ‘prepared designs of a Medieval character for both of the houses, varying, however, in design, but still in unison so as to form one composition. That prepared for No. 48 has been carried out with very little variation, but Messrs. Lake & Turner preferring the Renaissance style, Mr Roumieu, in conformity with their wishes, prepared a second design for No. 49’.
Nos. 48-49 Cheapside, City of London, as illustrated in The Builder of 26th September 1874
Many of the devices incorporated in the street façade of No. 48, such as the liberal use of patterned and textured surfaces, were familiar from Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap, although the three-centred arches with ogee curves above rising to decorative finials introduced a late Gothic flavour. The fourth floor and attic under a steeply pitched roof, its elevation centred on an oriel aligned with the apex of the arch beneath, almost formed a self-contained composition. At No. 49, the division of the elevation into narrow vertical units, with a profusion of advanced and receding planes and chamfered and faceted surfaces, was effectively translated into Italianate, for which Roumieu had prepared the ground with his idiosyncratic essays in the style of the late 1840s and early 1850s. At No. 48, the carving was once again the work of Mr Frampton, apart from the large figure of King David holding a harp at third-floor level, which was executed by a Mr Wyon – probably Edward William Wyon (1811-1885), who came from a well-established family firm of sculptors, engravers and medallists. The same Wyon executed the figure of Plenty sitting on the extrados of the segmental arch above the shopfront of No. 49 and some of the roundels, again after ‘small sketches by the architect’. The remainder of the carved detail adorning the façade of No. 49 was by a Mr Kelsey, perhaps Charles J. Samuel Kelsey, an architectural sculptor who also came from a London-based family firm. At some point no later than 1931, No. 48 was rather brutally de-Victorianised with the complete loss of the detail enclosed by the Gothic arch, including the figure of King David. Both buildings were gutted during the Blitz, when the neighbourhood was very badly damaged, and the ruins cleared away soon afterwards.
Nos. 48-49 Cheapside, perhaps in the late 1920s, showing No. 48 after its partial ‘de-Victorianisation’: the premises of P.B. Cow & Co. Ltd, visible on the far right of the picture, were a work of 1881 by Ernest George and Peto. (Historic England)
Roumieu designed a number of other commercial buildings in the City of London and its environs, most of which – assuming they have not all disappeared unrecorded – await discovery and study. So far, the only one in the City proper to have come to light is Victoria Wharf on Upper Thames Street, noted in The Builder’s obituary, which stood immediately to the east of Blackfriars railway bridge adjacent to Puddle Dock. Pre-war aerial photographs show a typical Thameside warehouse, five storeys in height and three bays wide, with some sort of ornamental trimmings to the upper part of the river front. Not much more can be deduced and, after sustaining bomb damage, it was demolished for redevelopment during the late 1940s or 1950s. Right at the end of his life, Roumieu designed a couple of commercial premises for Crosse and Blackwell, both of them located on Crown Street in Soho, which subsequently became the northern half of Charing Cross Road between Cambridge Circus and New Oxford Street. At No. 111, what was in effect a depot for delivery vehicles went up in 1875-1876 on a site on the western side formerly occupied by the Plough Inn. As The Builder noted in its issue of 15th April 1876, the rising cost of land meant that ‘London stables are following the example set by London houses of shooting up vertically, instead of spreading horizontally’. The ground floor was mostly given over to bays for the delivery vans, of which there were 18, with storage for fodder, a tack room, a dung yard and so on. The stables proper were on the first floor, 13ft (4m) above ground level, and access was provided by two ramps. Here, there were stalls for 35 horses, a loose box for a sick horse and ancillary facilities. The second floor of the range along the street front was occupied by living quarters for the stablemen, arranged ‘with windows looking into the open space above the stable, so that a view can be taken at any moment of the whole of the stables on the upper floor’. There was a tank for feeding the water troughs, hosing down the stalls and supplying the fire hydrants. Though the ground-floor storage bays and first-floor stalls were arranged around a central atrium, this was not open to the sky, being spanned by king post and queen post trusses resting on intermediate cast-iron columns and incorporating a monitor roof to provide top-lighting.
Street front, section and ground-floor plan of Crosse and Blackwell’s stables on Crown Street (later Charing Cross Road), as illustrated in The Builder of 15th April 1876
The street front was treated in a thick-set neo-Romanesque style, quite unlike anything else in Roumieu’s output, with the fenestration deliberately small to emphasise the massiveness of the wall surface. This was constructed of red brick, incorporating – perhaps for the broad decorative band at first-floor level – Pether’s ornamental bricks. The dressings were of stone and the carving was again the work of Frampton. In the 1920s, Crosse and Blackwell wound up all its operations on the Charing Cross Road and the stables were demolished for redevelopment. Roumieu also designed a warehouse for the company at Nos. 151-155 on the western side just short of the junction with New Oxford Street. It was a substantial structure which eventually rose to a height of 76ft (23m), but construction, which began in 1877, had to be suspended after threats of legal action from the owners of surrounding properties over the loss of light and air. It did not recommence until 1885 when Crown Street was widened to the east as part of the construction of Charing Cross Road and the problem had solved itself. After changing hands, the building was altered beyond all recognition externally in 1925-1926, then the site was cleared in 2009-2010 for the construction of Crossrail.
Succession and conclusion
Presentation drawing for the west elevation of St Mark’s, Broadwater Down in Tunbridge Wells, showing the church as built, although with even more dramatically sculptural treatment of the upper stages of the tower. (RIBA Collections)
On Roumieu’s death in 1877, his practice was taken over by his son, Reginald St Aubyn Roumieu (1854-1921). He had trained for six years with his father, but, evidently still green, decided to go into partnership with the older Thomas Kesteven Hill. This arrangement lasted for only two years before being curtailed by Hill’s death. In c. 1880, he went into partnership with Alfred Aitchinson (d. 1914), with whom he oversaw the completion of Nos. 151-155 Charing Cross Road. Gough’s practice, it might be noted briefly, was also continued after his death by his son, Hugh Roumieu Gough (1843-1904) evidently named in honour of his erstwhile business partner. The younger Gough was one of the numerous collaborators of J.P. Seddon, working with him on the design for St Paul’s Hammersmith, rebuilt on a grand scale in 1882-1891. He was also sole designer of the church of St Cuthbert, Philbeach Gardens, providing the grand shell built in 1884-1887 that was later much embellished internally by Ernest Geldart and William Bainbridge Reynolds.
The main front to Victoria Park Road of the former French Hospital (now Mossbourne Victoria Park Academy) in south Hackney
Roumieu’s work has been seen as epitomising High Victorianism, yet it also poses searching questions about its provenance and nature. Firstly, it begs the question of where exactly Victorian architecture begins. His earliest known work with Gough was erected around the time that Victoria acceded to the throne. Yet this cut-off point is largely arbitrary where architectural history is concerned – fashions do not, after all, always proceed in lockstep with politics. Both architects had been schooled in the traditions of the long 18th century, and inhabited a milieu from which many of the influences which would shape High Victorianism were absent. Roumieu involved himself little in ecclesiastical architecture and seems not to have participated in competitions for major public buildings, two areas where debate over architectural theory and aesthetic propriety raged most fiercely. The sort of licence in the use of historical motifs exemplified by the steeple of St Peter’s in Islington is hardly unusual for the first half of the 19th century. It was a hangover from Georgian Gothick, which was gradually purged from architecture by the growing concern with archaeological precedent and the high-minded censure of Pugin, Ruskin and The Ecclesiologist. Yet when one compares the unexecuted design for the Milner Square church with St Mark’s, North Audley Street, a marked difference in feeling between late Georgian and early Victorian architecture becomes apparent, which is more difficult to explain away. What are we to make of this?
Design for commercial premises in a Second Empire style: it is tempting to posit a link with the scheme for the interior of Breidenbach’s on New Bond Street reproduced above, but nothing is currently known of the circumstances of this commission. (RIBA Collections)
Conceivably, this in fact has nothing to do with the Zeitgeist and everything to do with personal character – the prevalence of nature over nurture, in other words. Licence and the impulse to distort, to exaggerate, to carry everything to extremes informed all of Roumieu’s design. Virtually every stylistic influence brought to bear on him by changing fashions – Greek Revival, Italianate, neo-Norman – is refracted through a distorting lens. When one leaves aside 20th century constructs and imposed associations, one sees that Nos 33-35 Eastcheap embodies a common thread in his Roumieu’s aesthetic that runs all the way back to the Islington Literary and Scientific Institute – the preoccupation with subdividing the elevation into tall, narrow units, with endlessly varying the modelling of the wall to eliminate any expanse of flat surface and the fascination with layered planes. The nervous, restless character of his work is a constant.
The former church of St Peter, Islington, seen from the junction of Grantbridge Street and St Peter’s Street, showing the chancel and transepts added by Roumieu and Gough.
Goodhart-Rendel was perhaps misguided in grouping in Roumieu with the Young Turks of the 1860s, such as E. Bassett Keeling and Joseph Peacock, not least because Nos. 33-35 Eastcheap comes from the final decade of its architect’s career. The Rogue Gothic buildings are not wholly representative of Roumieu’s output as a whole, and indeed to some extent a swansong. Yet Goodhart-Rendel was right in according to him the status of rogue architect in a more general sense. The epithet has been so frequently applied to the practitioners of the more eccentric brands of High Victorianism of the 1860s that it tends to be forgotten that the chronological scope of the RIBA lecture of 1949 for which he coined the term embraced a period running all the way from the 1840s to the 1890s. The common factor, which for him distinguished every figure featured in it, was a tendency to stay apart from the herd, powerful individualism manifesting itself in highly personal design that was neither emulated by contemporaries nor inspired a school among architects of a younger generation. In the case of some of the rogues, such as Alexander Thomson, the latter was inevitable: they persisted with an idiom that was out of fashion by the end of their career, and thus represent an isolated line of development which was fated to be curtailed by their death. Others, such as Bassett Keeling and Peacock, toned down their style in later life, ceding originality to respectability and conventionality. But in the case of Roumieu, the matter is nothing like as straightforward. Though he reinvented himself more than once, his personality remained inimitable from first to last. Though he had a partner and a pupil, neither went on to produce anything that stands comparison with his work. There is, perhaps, no greater accolade for a rogue.
Design for the painted decoration of the timber roof of a church – the High Victorian character of this design suggests a date towards the end of Roumieu’s career in the 1860s-1870s, but the circumstances of this commission have yet to be established. (RIBA Collections)
It is a measure of the prominence which civil engineering assumed in the 19th century that members of the profession achieved the status of household names. Indeed, they not merely achieved, but also retained it – witness, for instance, Isambard Kingdom Brunel polling second place in the 100 Greatest Britons television series of 2002, nearly 150 years after his death. Chief engineer of London’s Metropolitan Board of Works, Sir Joseph Bazalgette (1819-1891), has also enjoyed popular advocacy in the age of mass media thanks to his television mogul great-great-grandson. Bazalgette’s achievement is easily surmised – he was the man who planned and oversaw the construction of London’s sewer system, conceived with such foresight and built to such a high standard that it remains vital to the capital even today. But his fame has eclipsed an important collaborator, and one whose work still forms no less important a part of London’s infrastructure.
The central octagon and lantern in the engine house at Abbey Mills (Dan Raven)
Bazalgette’s great scheme formed an integral part of a wider programme of urban improvements, principally the creation of the Victoria Embankment along the north side of the Thames from Westminster Bridge to Blackfriars Bridge. But the sewage system itself had little architectural expression. It was hidden away below the pavement, and the benefits to Londoners were not what it brought into their lives, but what it took away from them – the overwhelming, nauseating stench of a dangerously polluted river and the risk of serious disease caused by the lack of proper sanitation. But although effluent was now spirited away from central London by two enormous outfall sewers, something still had to be done with it eventually, and Bazalgette’s solution was to release it into the Thames Estuary at high tide from where it would disperse into the open sea. This involved lifting it into holding tanks, necessitating the construction of large pumping stations. The design of these was entrusted to Charles Henry Driver, an architect whose career is intertwined with those of the great engineers of the age. What he provided did far more than simply shelter the machinery from the elements – these were imposing, magnificent buildings, which exuded self-confidence and expressed faith in technology, reason and progress.
Detail of the former external door on the river side of the engine house at Crossness
That the architectural treatment would have made these pumping stations an ornament to a far more visible location is all the more remarkable when one considers that they went up on the lonely flatlands of the Thames Estuary, and were seen regularly only by the staff who operated and maintained them. But, as a result, they did little to further the reputation of their designer outside professional circles. In some ways, it was Driver’s fate to be overshadowed by the engineers with whom he collaborated. They were engaged in the undertakings that epitomised the heroic age of engineering – improving the sanitation of a metropolis, building transport routes that would move goods and people across the country faster than had ever been possible before, opening up far-flung parts of the globe. Whatever the merits of the architectural treatment of these works might be, it paled in significance compared to the revolutionary economic and social effects of such progress. But as architect, Driver’s task was to do far more than to design packaging for machinery or to add decorative effects to functional structures. It involved nothing less than grappling with a problem that arose from the technological innovations of the day and has remained relevant ever since – the application of art to industry. The aim of this blog post is to demonstrate something of how he achieved that.
The central octagon in the engine house at Crossness, viewed from one of the staircases to the beam floor, with Prince Consort visible in the background.
Driver the railway architect
The town-side buildings with the former stationmaster’s house at Wellingborough Station (Wikipedia Commons)
Born in Westminster to a clerk in an insurance office, Driver began his career as a draughtsman in the office of Frank Foster, engineer to the Commissioners of Sewers. Beyond this, nothing is currently known of his training, although he seems to have had a natural artistic flair, since his obituary in The Builder (10th November 1900, pp. 423-424) notes that ‘at an early age [he] was an exhibitor at the Royal Academy’. Foster may have proved an auspicious connection in view of Driver’s later career, yet the architect first emerged as a specialist not in drainage but in railway stations. The Midland Railway was formed in 1844 through the merger of three pre-existing companies, which, starting in the latter half of the 1830s, had created a network of lines that converged at Derby. This was already extensive, but the directors had greater ambitions, and for future growth it was essential to obtain a connection to the capital. In the first stage of the journey south in 1852-1857, the company put out a branch that diverged from its existing Leicester to Rugby route to run through Market Harborough, Kettering and Wellingborough to Bedford. In time, this would be extended further south to the new terminus of St Pancras, but for the moment the connection to London was to be achieved by striking out across country in a south-easterly direction to meet the East Coast main line, operated by the rival Great Northern Railway, at Hitchin.
Driver’s canopy on platform 1 at Wellingborough Station seen from the island platform, remodelled in 1882 when the line was quadrupled. (John Law)
Driver was engaged by the engineering firm of Liddell and Gordon to design the stations and bridges for the Leicester-Hitchin line. Bedford station was demolished in the early 1980s as part of an upgrade for the electrification of suburban services and the route to Hitchin, having been downgraded from trunk to branch-line status once the new London connection opened in 1868, eventually closed to traffic in 1964. But the stations at Wellingborough and Kettering survive, have remained in use and are well preserved. Stylistically, the town-side buildings at Wellingborough are an amalgam of several different influences. There are the pointed segmental arches with much chamfering to door and window jambs so typical of High Victorian Gothic, and there are round-headed openings with constructional polychromy that show the influence of Ruskin’s promotion of Venetian Romanesque. Yet the prominent bargeboards of the stationmaster’s house and the decorative glazing bars are in the older tradition of the cottage orné. All of these are common enough devices for the period; what sets Driver’s work apart is the virtuoso use of cast iron for the platform canopies. These are based on the ridge and furrow principle established by Joseph Paxton, with transverse gables forming a sawtooth profile in elevation. In section, each truss appears symmetrical, with a central column from which two large brackets project laterally in order to support what is effectively a wall plate and two smaller, subsidiary brackets extend longitudinally to brace what is effectively a principal rafter.
The main entrance front of Portsmouth and Southsea Station
If the design of the platform buildings suggests that Driver had absorbed something of Ruskin, the design of the canopy represents a direct challenge to an article of faith. In The Seven Lamps of Architecture (1849), Ruskin had inveighed against the use of cast iron, directing his vituperation against ornament made of the material, which he regarded as more active a cause than any other ‘in the degradation of our national feeling of beauty’, ‘incapable of a fine line or shadow’ and ‘vulgar and cheap substitutes for real decoration’. Only wrought iron ornament, each work of which was unique and could display the skill and labour invested in it by an executant artist-craftsman, was acceptable. But such an elegantly pared-down construction as the frame of the canopies at Wellingborough (and indeed Kettering, where the same castings were used) could hardly have been achieved in wrought iron, which would lack the necessary compressive strength. An earlier generation of Gothic Revivalists had often used iron for columns since moulded details could be cast far more economically than they could be carved in stone. Only a sharp rap with the knuckles will reveal the sham (such columns are usually hollow internally), but here the design of the ornament is intrinsic to the material. The elegant arabesques filling the spandrels of the brackets are not applied to render a bare construction visually more palatable, but are an integral part of it. The slender proportions of the supporting columns make it immediately obvious that they could not possibly be built of stone.
The former ticket office (converted to a pub when reconstructed after a fire in 1980) and the pedestrian overbridge at Denmark Hill stationCapital and cast iron downpipe recessed into the exterior wall of the former booking office at Denmark Hill station
In 1858, Driver joined the office of Robert Jacomb-Hood (1822-1900), resident engineer of the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway (LBSCR). It proved to be a fruitful partnership and Driver was kept busy designing new stations for a company that was rapidly expanding its network throughout the 1860s. He designed the screen wall to the trainshed over the terminus platforms that formed the company’s half of London Bridge station and the main entrance and ticket office to Portsmouth and Southsea station (a mixture of terminus and through platforms, with the former belonging to the LBSCR, just like London Bridge). He designed the stations on the inner-suburban south London loop line running through Peckham Rye and Denmark Hill. In Surrey, he designed the stations on the extension from Leatherhead to Dorking and in Sussex and Kent the stations on the extension of the Three Bridges to East Grinstead line through Groombridge to Tunbridge Wells.
The main entrance on the west side of Leatherhead Station (Sebastian Kasten)Boxhill and Westhumble station
Stylistically, these stations represent a shift in Driver’s manner when compared to his work for the Leicester-Hitchin line. Ornamental devices drawn from cottage orné designs have vanished and he has clearly absorbed a great deal of the muscular High Victorian idiom. Capitals and friezes have the vigorous, overscaled foliate carving that constitutes one of its trademarks and the constructional polychromy becomes more strident, with bold stripes and banding, sometimes even chevrons. Notched and chamfered detailing abounds. In urban settings, the style tends more to the Italianate: its underlying classical principles could usefully brought into play in settings where a grand, symmetrical street frontage was required, such as at Portsmouth and Southsea (c. 1866), Peckham Rye and Denmark Hill (both 1864-1866). Large central blocks could accommodate spacious waiting rooms or ticket offices and mansard or barrel roofs could be used to give the principal elements in the composition greater visual emphasis. Elsewhere, especially at country stations, Driver tended more to the Gothic. Compositions were asymmetrical with more self-consciously picturesque massing and offset towers with hipped or pyramidal roofs to provide visual interest, as at Tunbridge Wells West (c. 1866), Boxhill and Westhumble and Leatherhead (both completed 1867).
The former waiting room at Peckham Rye Station: after being taken out of service, it was used as a billiard hall and latterly stripped of much of its original decor before restoration commenced in the 2000s. (Quintin Lake)Detail of the cast iron balustrade of the staircase to the former waiting room at Peckham Rye Station (Quintin Lake)
There is, however, a constant in the masterful use of cast iron structural elements and ornament. The ridge and furrow platform canopies of the Midland Railway stations with their glazed roofs disappear, but the ironwork makes a far greater show in the masonry-built portions of the stations in the form of railings, finials, brackets, roof crests and other ornamental devices. At Leatherhead, vertiginously proportioned columns support a canopy above the main entrance. As Paul Dobraszczyk has shown in Iron, Ornament and Architecture in Victorian Britain, Driver’s skill in the medium is the result of a symbiotic working relationship with founders such as Walter Macfarlane (1817-1885), proprietor of the Saracen Works in Glasgow. During the architect’s lifetime, the firm rose from humble beginnings to become one of Britain’s largest producers of architectural ironwork, much of it designed by Driver, manufacturing prefabricated components and even entire buildings for export all over the globe. In an address to the RIBA given in 1875, Driver explained his working practise, which involved providing full-size drawings to guide the production of the pattern and then a mould. He emphasised that he regarded it as vital for architects to be active collaborators with founders on their own terms, and to understand for themselves the casting process and properties of the material. As Dobraszczyk comments, the architect was instrumental in developing a house style not only for Macfarlane, but also for the LBSCR.
Tunbridge Wells West Station: the line from here to Eridge remains in situ and operational as the Spa Valley Railway, but now terminates short of Driver’s building following the redevelopment of the former carriage yards as a supermarket and conversion of the station to a restaurant, when the platform canopy was partly enclosed.Tunbridge Wells West in c. 1980, not long before the cessation of train services (Martin Cottam)
Driver continued to be active as a designer of railway stations throughout his career and throughout the country, being involved in projects as widely scattered as the West Lancashire Railway from Preston to Southport (closed in 1964) and the Tottenham and Forest Gate Railway (still in operation as part of Transport for London’s Gospel Oak to Barking route). He also supplied designs for railways in South America, such as the Buenos Aires and Ensenada Port Railway in Argentina (1868-1870) and the São Paulo Railway Company in Brazil. He was architect of the latter’s Estação da Luz in São Paulo, built in 1895-1901, for which Macfarlane’s company provided prefabricated iron components. Involvement with British commercial ventures in South America also brought him a commission to supply designs for the Central Market in Santiago, Chile, built in 1869-1872. The elaborate, top-lit structure of the main market hall with its filigree cast-iron panels bears all his hallmarks.
The interior of the booking hall at Tunbridge Wells West in c. 1980 (Martin Cottam)Interior of the Central Market in Santiago, Chile (Wikipedia Commons)
Driver the Goth
Driver and Webber’s winning design for the Ellesmere Memorial, as illustrated in The Builder of 6th November 1858
In 1858, Driver briefly went into partnership with an obscure architect by the name of Josiah Webber. The two of them won a competition held that same year to find a design for a monument to commemorate Francis Egerton, 1st Earl of Ellesmere (1800-1857), politician, writer, art patron and owner of the Bridgewater Estates. Erected in 1858-1860 on a site outside Worsley (then in Lancashire, now in Greater Manchester), it rose to a height of 130ft (39.6m), dominating the surrounding countryside. It still exists, although in much truncated form since the central octagonal section had to be removed in 1939 after becoming unsafe. A slightly gauche piece of design, it represented an attempt to paraphrase in High Victorian Gothic the form of a classical columnar monument.
General view looking east of the interior of St Mary’s in Warkworth (Chris Stafford)
The partnership with Webber was dissolved the following year, but Driver’s interest in Gothic survived it and in 1863 he took part in the competition for St Fin Barre’s Cathedral in Cork. He was unsuccessful (no details have yet emerged of his entry), but the restoration carried out in 1868-1869 of the principally 14th century church of St Mary in Warkworth on the southwestern border of Northamptonshire shows that his command of gothic was certainly fluent. He added a belfry stage to the tower, which seems to have been left incomplete at the end of the Middle Ages, and a south arcade within the existing envelope, carefully reproducing the genuine medieval north arcade. He also rebuilt the chancel, which boasts a splendid reredos and fine tilework to the floor and dado in the sanctuary. This is Driver’s only known executed ecclesiastical commission and it would seem that his activity in other spheres kept him sufficiently busy for there to be no need to involve himself in the fraught, specialised and frequently poorly remunerative world of church work.
General view of the frontage to Oxford Road of the Horton Infirmary, as illustrated in The Builder of 10th August 1872
Driver’s obituary in The Builder states that he designed the memorial outside Sledmere in East Yorkshire built in 1865 to commemorate Sir Tatton Sykes, 4th baronet (1772-1863), but this is not borne out by the list description or The Buildings of England, which give John Gibbs of Oxford as the architect, and the reason for the claim is unknown. We are on much firmer ground with the Horton Infirmary in Banbury, completed in 1872, a confident essay in muscular, vividly polychromatic Gothic. A report in The Builder (10th August 1872) explained that it was named after a Miss Horton of Middleton Cheney who, together with her great-nephew, had gifted £10,000 towards the acquisition of a site, construction costs and an endowment for a hospital ‘intended for the use of the poor of Banbury and those residing within a radius of ten miles’. Although the off-centre placing of the tower with its tall hipped roof (presumably a water tower) disrupted the symmetry, it was essentially a classical design. The central block and wings extending out from it housed the consulting rooms, operating theatre, waiting rooms and so on, with accommodation for staff on the first floor. The end pavilions housed the men’s and women’s wards, with a kitchen placed under the latter, taking advantage of the fall of ground across the site. The hospital survives, is listed at Grade II and remains in use, now as part of a much bigger complex, but some of the original detailing has been lost.
Ground floor plan of the Horton Infirmary, as illustrated in The Builder of 10th August 1872
Driver at Crossness
Looking down into the central octagon from the beam floor of the engine house at Crossness: the spiral staircase provides access to the sewage pumps, the condensers and other numerous pieces of equipment below floor level.
The basis of Bazalgette’s grand scheme was two enormous outfall sewers serving London north and south of the Thames. The Southern Outfall Sewer began in Deptford, where three interceptor sewers that ran across suburbs to the west converged at a pumping station, which lifted the effluent so that it could then flow onwards by gravity. The buildings of the pumping station (although not the steam pumps that formerly occupied them) survive and are listed at Grade II. The southern outfall sewer travelled across Greenwich, Woolwich, Plumstead and then out onto Erith marshes, at that date still open country well outside the city limits and partly used as a testing ground for munitions by Woolwich Arsenal. Here, the effluent had to be raised again, this time to flow into a large covered reservoir from which it was released into the Thames at high tide to be dispersed into the open sea on the ebb – initially untreated, although by the end of the 19th century sedimentation tanks had been added to separate out the solids and an electrolytic purification plant had been brought into operation. The work was done by four 125-horse-power rotative beam engines supplied by James Watt and Co of Birmingham, named Victoria, Prince Consort, Albert Edward and Alexandra. The Crossness pumping station, which was completed and brought into operation in 1865, was a substantial complex. Not merely was it a key component of the infrastructure, in view of its remote location it also had to be effectively self-contained. There was a wharf where coal for the boilers was delivered by barge, a fitting shop for carrying out repairs to the machinery, housing for the employees, a school for their children and a gas plant to provide lighting.
The river frontage of the engine house at Crossness, as illustrated in The Builder of 19th August 1865The exterior of the engine house at Crossness as it appears today from the landward side: the large single-storey wing with the triple gables in the middle of the frame is the former boiler house.
The engine house was the centrepiece of the complex. Driver’s approach to the architectural treatment of the exterior is familiar from his railway stations – a kind of free Italianate able to absorb both Classical and Gothic influences as necessary. The principal aspect was the north elevation that looked out to the river, at that date the only location from which it was likely to be seen by the wider public. This was a grand, spreading, symmetrical façade of seven unequal bays, the central one of which broke forward. In its composition it owed something to the Renaissance palazzo model popular at the time for large public buildings, but the detailing was Romanesque, incorporating structural polychromy in red brick and highly sculptural treatment of the wall surfaces. Pilaster strips divided the bays, with numerous receding and advancing surfaces articulated through the use of set-offs and a vigorously modelled corbel table within the bays. The monumentally scaled central doorway was outright neo-Norman, more in the manner of the 1840s when that style enjoyed a vogue, and aligned with it at roof level was a dormer housing a clock. This emerged from the steep slope of a tall mansard roof with cast-iron cresting and finials. A large single-storey boiler house with three transverse gables projected from the landward side. The flues from the 12 Cornish boilers exhausted into a tall chimney, 208 feet (63.4m) in height and modelled on a Venetian campanile, with much horizontal banding and constructional polychromy. None of this can easily be appreciated now. An extension was added to the north elevation in 1898 to house additional pumping equipment, which, though sympathetic in style, obscured much of the principal aspect. The mansard roof was removed in 1928 and a flat, concrete-built replacement substituted. Once the last of the steam pumps had been decommissioned in the mid-1950s, the chimney was taken down.
Detail of the former main entrance on the river side of the engine house at Crossness, visible in the illustration above and now enclosed within the former Triple Expansion Engine House of 1898.
The interior of the engine house was treated even more splendidly than the exterior. It was planned symmetrically and axially, with one engine to each of the quadrants into which it was divided. The entire inner structure was built of cast iron. The building was divided horizontally to create an upper floor providing access for repair and maintenance to the beams of the engines. Arcades ran laterally across the entire width of each half of the building. The columns and arches were so heavily constructed that they looked as though they might have been built of stone rather than iron. They had to be, since they supported not only the floor members but also the pivoting beams of the pumping engines. At the centre was an octagonal space rising the full height of the building that evidently was aligned with the pavilion roof visible on old illustrations of the engine house, which perhaps provided some form of top-lighting. Again, there is a slight sense of a masonry design translated into cast iron and the potential of that material is most effectively exploited for the screens filling the angle bays, the arabesques in the spandrels of the arches, the panels above them and the railings at beam-floor level. Together with the openwork castings of the flooring, this creates an unusual degree of transparency, no doubt the product of practical as well as aesthetic considerations – for all the splendour, it was a dangerous working environment and for safety’s sake light needed to be distributed evenly through the building. But the most striking feature of the interior is the vivid paint scheme, reinstated from the 1980s onwards when work began to restore the engine house, which is now open to the public. The beam engines remain intact, saved by a quirk of fate – the scrap value would have been less than the cost of removing them when they were finally decommissioned and so they were simply left to rust. Prince Consort, the last of them to be used in 1953, has been returned to working order (it can be seen in operation in a short video here) and Victoria is now in the process of restoration.
General view of the interior of the engine house with Prince Consort to the right (shown in operation on a steaming day) and Victoria to the left, under restoration when this photograph was taken in 2017.
Driver at Abbey Mills
The system described above was mirrored north of the Thames. Here, five interceptor sewers (one of them incorporated in Bazalgette’s Thames Embankment) ran west to east and converged at Abbey Mills on the River Lea just south of Stratford. Here a pumping station lifted the effluent into the Northern Outfall Sewer, along which it travelled by gravity to a reservoir at Beckton, to be released into the Thames at high tide. Abbey Mills was therefore the northern equivalent of the Deptford pumping station, but whereas that was fairly restrained in its architectural treatment, Abbey Mills was more than a match in its splendour for Crossness, which it slightly postdates, having been built in 1865-1868. This may have been prompted by the greater simplicity of the Beckton facility relative to Crossness – The Builder reported in its coverage of the opening of the Southern Outfall Sewer (19th August 1865) that the former consisted simply of a penstock house and residence without any pumping machinery, treated with ‘much less elaboration of detail’.
The exterior of the engine house at Abbey Mills (Scott Mundy)
As at Crossness, the engine house forms the centrepiece of an extensive complex of ancillary buildings, all treated in a similar manner to ensure visual unity. Whereas the engine house at Crossness is rectangular in plan, at Abbey Mills it is a Greek cross. There were eight rather than four beam engines, supplied by Rothwell and Co of Bolton, two to each arm of the cross. These were removed in the 1930s when the pumps were converted to electric operation, but, apart from the loss of the chimney (dismantled in 1941 over fears that a bomb blast might cause it to collapse onto the station), the building is better preserved than its counterpart at Crossness. It is also a good deal more sumptuous. Stone dressings are used much more liberally and the elaborate corbel table incorporates majolica inserts. The windows are arranged in longer stretches of wall arcading and the constructional polychromy is more strident. Cast-iron downpipes in the form of barley-sugar twists have been incorporated as nook shafts. The tall mansard roof with its dormers survives and over the crossing – again, aligned with a central full-height octagonal space below – is a highly ornamental lantern, carried on iron girders and slate-clad externally with a good deal of decorative cast iron crests, finials and so on. It is complemented by four stone-built turrets in the angles of the returns.
The interior of the engine house at Abbey Mills at the level of the former beam floor (Dan Raven)
Although the adoption of a plan-form derived from ecclesiastical prototypes seems to have prompted Driver to tend more to his Gothic than his Italianate manner, the effect is anything but medievalising, as described in appreciative terms in Nairn’s London: ‘[The station] pumps sewage and… It pumps vitality too, and the conviction you look for in Victorian churches and rarely find. If the Russian shape of the main dome and the vaguely Moorish corner towers had not existed, the nineteenth-century engineers would have invented something like them. They were pumping sewage from a great city – not an operation to be disguised with terms such as ‘rodent operative’, but a noble function. The fifteenth century might have called it God’s bowels. The nineteenth kept enough sense of occasion to make the inside… into a kind of cathedral’.
Driver and the street light
Driver’s skill in designing architectural ironwork was put to good use by Bazalgette in another important element of his grand scheme of urban improvements. Streetlights had begun to proliferate in British towns and cities during the first half of the nineteenth century, thanks in part to the growing supply network for town gas, but, although cast-iron offered the possibility of mass-producing items to meet the increasing demand, they had generally been viewed as utilitarian objects, not worthy of any special artistic treatment. With the greatly increased scale and scope of urban improvements being carried out by the Metropolitan Board of Works, that attitude changed. Street furniture had to be worthy of an ambitious venture such as the construction of the Thames Embankment. It was no longer a functional object, but part of an improved urban environment, aimed at fostering a better quality of life, which deserved to be advertised to those who benefited from it. If a sewage disposal plant on remote marshland was now a worthy subject for the architect, then why not a street light?
One of the combined street lights and ventilating shafts on Southwark Street, as illustrated in The Builder of 14th January 1865: Paul Dobraszczyk identifies the bearded figure as Walter Macfarlane, the man on horseback as Charles Driver and the moustached gentleman with the top hat and cane in the middle ground as Joseph Bazalgette.
Southwark Street was the first new street to be created by the Metropolitan Board of Works. It was a major project, authorised by an Act of Parliament passed in 1857, but not completed until 1864, and it had to be cut through a densely built-up neighbourhood. It was aimed at improving transport links between an area that was increasingly busy (thanks in part to London Bridge Station) and Westminster and the West End, by allowing travellers to bypass London Bridge itself and the City of London. The building plots created along it provided opportunities for new commercial development and the finished product must have contrasted greatly with the existing narrow, traffic-clogged, irregularly planned streets in the area. Southwark Street was broad and curved gently, and a subway ran underneath the centre of the carriageway, with parallel runs for gas pipes, a water main, a sewer and telegraph wires, thus providing access for maintenance without any need to excavate and disrupt traffic. The lamps went up at the west end, where it joined Blackfriars Bridge Road, and the east end, where it diverged from Borough High Street. They thus provided lighting for busy junctions, combining the function with that of ventilation shaft for the service tunnel below. As reported in The Builder of 14th January 1865, they were cast by Macfarlane’s Saracen Foundry and set up on red sandstone bases, standing 27ft (8.2m) high. Though the base, the clustered shaft and foliate capital owed a clear debt to the Gothic of the Middle Ages, the lamp brackets, corona and shaft were thoroughly baroque in their complexity and richness. The design exploited to the maximum the potential of cast iron for achieving intricate yet also durable detail.
The street light at the junction of Gray’s Inn Road and Holborn, as illustrated in in The Builder of 16th August 1868: Paul Dobraszczyk identifies the figure on the left accompanied by a lady as Charles Driver and the figure on the right in a broad-brimmed hat as Joseph Bazalgette.
Three years later, Driver provided a design for a streetlight on Holborn. This too was part of a scheme of urban improvements by the Metropolitan Board of Works, directed in this instance at removing a block of houses called Middle Row, which stood on an island site at the junction with Gray’s Inn Road and had long been regarded as an obstruction. Another Macfarlane product, the Holborn lamp was also conceived on an imposing scale, standing 24ft (7.3m) high and being positioned on a traffic island with guard posts and granite kerbs standing on part of the site formerly occupied by Middle Row. The illustration accompanying the report on it in The Builder of 16th August 1868 was calculated to show the contrast that it must have made with a surrounding streetscape, which at that date still consisted largely of timber-framed buildings. The design of the Holborn street light was different to that of its counterparts on Southwark Street, but, being made of cast iron, both could theoretically be reproduced ad infinitum, and indeed the latter subsequently became a standard Macfarlane product. As Dobraszczyk discusses, this circumstance prompted wildly differing responses and a good deal of anxiety. Some commentators, perhaps conditioned by Ruskin’s view of cast iron goods as a second-rate substitute for hand-crafted items, felt that street lights ought to be made to one-off designs specific to their location: even the most artistically distinguished pattern risked wearying the public and devaluing the original contribution of its designer if reproduced endlessly. Others took the opposite line, that mass production allowed the positive influence of good design to permeate widely in a manner that had never been possible before, and would thereby democratise art. Driver, unsurprisingly, sided with the latter group.
Driver at the seaside
Pavilion and railings on the south side of Llandudno Pier: the former a later addition, the latter – as discussed below – a casting produced to a design by Driver.
As a specialist in cast iron, Driver was a natural choice for additions to the Crystal Palace on its new hilltop site in Sydenham, where it had been re-erected in altered form in 1852-1854. In 1869-1873, the complex was expanded with the addition of an orangery and aquarium built to his designs. A report in the Building News of 14th April 1871 (p. 278) described the latter, hailing it as the first satisfactory public aquarium in the British Isles. It was exceptional for being a collection of marine rather than freshwater fauna, and it was briefly the largest of its type anywhere in the world. It was a long, narrow structure occupying a site which had been left vacant after the destruction by fire of the northern arm of the Palace in 1866. Most of the tanks were arranged in a row against a blind rear wall and The Building News reported that they varied in depth from 6 inches to 6ft (15cm to 1.8m) and in volume from 75 to 4,000 gallons (341 to 18,184 litres). Sea water, delivered by rail from Brighton, was supplied from a 130,000-gallon (590,991-litre) tank located beneath the main gallery and circulated constantly by steam pumps to ensure that it remained aerated. The aquarium functioned only until the 1890s, when the accommodation was taken over by the zoo on the site. It survived the fire of 1936 which destroyed the main building, but was badly damaged when the adjacent north tower was dynamited in 1941 and now only scant ruins survive.
Aerial view of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham from the east in c. 1935 – Driver’s aquarium is circled in red (Walter Mittelholzer)
The success of the aquarium landed Driver a commission from the Council of the Vienna Exhibition in 1872 to design one for that city. The same year, Driver became a Fellow of the RIBA, of which he had been an Associate since 1867. Five years later, Driver – who was now working in partnership with Charles Henry Rew (1842-1912) – attempted a third aquarium, intended for a site on the eastern side of the resort of Llandudno on the North Wales coast. The design was published in The Building News of 16th March 1877, which stated in its report that it was to be ‘constructed generally on the principle of the one at Crystal Palace, but with all the latest improvements and will have about 2,500 superficial feet [232.3 square metres] of plate-glass in the show and table tanks’, which were to be constructed of slate obtained from the nearby quarries. The aquarium was to be housed in the brick-built podium of a substantial iron-and-glass winter garden standing above. This was to be 170ft x 110ft (51.8m x 33.5m) in overall length and width and arranged on a quasi-ecclesiastical cruciform plan with a central crossing, where there was to be a performance space and associated facilities for bands, supporting a dome 42ft (12.8m) in diameter and rising to 60ft (18.3m) in height. There were reminiscences of Gothic in the ornamental glazing bars of the tympana filling the ends of the barrel roofs, but also decidedly orientalising touches in the treatment of the dome and minaret-like chimney, in keeping with the exotic flavour accorded to so much seaside architecture. Driver and Rew’s design was rejected and the project eventually executed on a different site in the form of the Pier Pavilion Theatre.
Artist’s impression of Driver and Rew’s proposed aquarium at Llandudno, as published in The Building News of 16th March 1877 – the inset plan shows the layout of the aquarium in the podium.
Driver’s expertise in cast-iron construction and ornament made him a natural choice for work on designing the piers for coastal resorts. His introduction to this line of work seems to have been the product of a working relationship established four years previously with the engineers Sir James Brunlees (1816-1892), and Alexander McKerrow (1837-1920). A native of Kelso in Roxburghshire, Brunlees was a civil engineer who had cut his teeth on the Bolton and Preston Railway, sanctioned in 1837 and opened in stages between 1841 and 1843. He went on to be involved in numerous projects under way at the time as the railway network underwent rapid expansion, and distinguished himself by constructing routes across difficult terrain. This included the Londonderry and Coleraine Railway in Northern Ireland, which required the formation of an embankment across Rosse’s Bay in the River Foyle, with its deep water and shifting sands. It was his success in such ventures that seems to have won him an appointment in 1856 to oversee the planning and construction of the São Paulo Railway, which necessitated overcoming the considerable obstacle presented by the Serra do Mar mountain range to reach its destination on the coast. This evidently brought about Driver’s commission to design the Estação da Luz terminus and the two worked together on other projects, such as the West Lancashire Railway. Brunlees had an equally illustrious record as a specialist in docks and harbours, and it is perhaps this circumstance that led in due course to his involvement in the construction of piers, including the first iron pier in the country at Southport in Merseyside, built in 1859-1860.
Llandudno Pier as photographed by Francis Bedford soon after completion, showing its appearance prior to the construction of the new landing stage in 1891.
Driver’s first known commission involving a pier was at Llandudno in North Wales, where the need had arisen to replace a wooden structure originally erected in 1858. As Dobraszczyk has shown, Brunlees and McKerrow’s first design, approved for construction in 1876, was plain with fairly perfunctory ornament. It was only in 1877, the same year as the abortive winter gardens project was put forward, that Driver and Rew were engaged to produce a more refined and comprehensive scheme. The reason is unclear, but the Mostyn Estate, the principal landowner in the town, was keen to promote Llandudno as an exclusive resort a cut above those further east along the coast, which catered to workers from the north-western industrial towns, and was thus decidedly image-conscious. While the original pier had been conceived as part of an abortive project to develop Llandudno Bay as a major port, its replacement was very clearly intended primarily for leisure. Driver designed 10 shelters with ornamental roof brackets arranged in pairs at regular intervals along the pier and railings for the main deck based, as Dobraszczyk explains, on a Moorish pattern from Owen Jones’s textbook The Grammar of Ornament, which its author recommended as particularly suitable for cast-iron ornament. All this was manufactured at the Elmbank Foundry in Glasgow of James Allan Senior & Sons.
Plate 43, entitled ‘Moresque No. 5’ from Owen Jones’s The Grammar of Ornament of 1856 – the source of the pattern used by Driver for the design of the railings of the main deck of Llandudno Pier.
The success of the Llandudno project led to other commissions for piers. According to his obituary in The Builder, it was Driver who was engaged to design a pier for the Mediterranean report of Nice, located on the promenade des Anglais. Built in 1880-1883, it proved to be very short-lived – it burned down three days after its official opening, and reconstruction did not commence until 1889. The obituary in The Builder also gives Driver as the architect of ‘the extension and pavilion to the Southend Pier’, another Brunlees project, completed in 1889. The extension was added in 1897 to allow more steamships to moor at the pier, which was lengthened again in the late 1920s to take it to its present length of over a mile. The pavilion was destroyed by fire in 1959. Driver’s obituary in the 1901 proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers, of which the architect was made an associate in the year of his death, also attributes to him the design of the pavilion added to Brighton’s West Pier when it was extended in 1893. In most sources the designer is given as Robert William Peregrine Birch (1845-1896), nephew of Eugenius (1818-1884), who had designed the original structure. Possibly Driver’s contribution was limited to the extensive ornamental trimmings, but this wants confirmation. Following collapses in 2002 and fires in 2003, only the iron skeleton of the pavilion now survives, marooned out at sea.
Southend Pier, probably in the early 1900s, showing Driver’s Pavilion at the seaward end
Final years and conclusion
Tympanum with incised ornament to the doorway in one of the end walls of the engine house at Crossness
According to his obituary in The Times, at some point during the final years of his life, Driver entered into a partnership with one Stanley Barratt. The practice was renamed Barratt and Driver and, after the architect’s death in 1900, continued in business at an address in Maida Vale, having latterly been based on Victoria Street in Westminster. The obituary in The Builder noted that Driver ‘was an active and energetic Freemason, and designed and carried out the Mark Mason’s Hall in Great Queen-street’ (evidently this did not survive the rebuilding of the site in 1927-1932) and that ‘He was likewise an active Volunteer, being Captain in his corps’. It mentions that among his executed designs were ‘many private residences’ but gives no further details and this aspect of his work awaits discovery. Driver was buried at West Norwood Cemetery, one of the Magnificent Seven.
Detail of the street front to the road overbridge of the former booking office at Denmark Hill station
The achievements of Victorian civil engineers in creating infrastructure that continues to give good service well into the second century of its existence means that they have always stood in high regard. They have also been held in high esteem by architectural historians, who praised their exploration of daring new construction techniques for opening the door to the innovations of the 20th century. By contrast, the historicising garb in which so many of these projects were clothed has frequently been perceived as problematic, even as detracting from their achievement. Why – the thinking went – should advanced technology be made to look like a relic of classical Antiquity or the Middle Ages? Why was there no progressive architectural style to advertise and celebrate its modernity?
Capital of a cast iron pillar supporting one of the platform canopies at Denmark Hill Station – a standard pattern used at numerous other LBSCR stations, including for the canopy over the entrance to Leatherhead Station pictured above.
But this is a false dichotomy. While a purely utilitarian structure far from any town such as a railway viaduct could be treated as good building rather than art-architecture, anything with public significance and presence required more thought. For all its boons, this new technology was unfamiliar, even frightening, and architecture had an important part to play in making it feel less threatening. The task went a long way beyond simply adding on decorative frills or hiding everything behind an external skin – the ornament was an integral part of the design. Inevitably, this involved resorting to models drawn from historical precedents to serve at the very least as a starting point. But the capacity for innovation of an architect such as Driver should not be under-estimated, and this becomes particularly clear when one starts to draw parallels with his counterparts in, say, the ecclesiastical sphere. Here, the baggage of the past weighed heavily on architects’ shoulders and the arbiters of taste and rectitude tightly policed their activity. Even modest innovations, such as Bassett Keeling’s use of cast iron columns that were readily identifiable as such, risked censure. It would take until the middle of the 20th century for the architecture of the Established Church to free itself entirely from historicising allusions. By contrast, no comparable strictures applied where new building types were concerned.
The main street front of the Estação da Luz in São Paulo, photographed in 2005 – the overall roof spanning the platforms behind is just visible to the far left. (Wikipedia Commons)
True, once he had developed his mature style, Driver did not evolve far beyond it, and the Estação da Luz could easily be mistaken for a design of 30 years earlier. It fell to a later generation of architects – say, France’s Hector Guimard, another virtuoso in cast iron – to realise the full potential of the innovations of the 19th century. All the same, Driver achieved a great deal in developing a flexible, accommodating idiom, which was able to absorb influences from a large number of different sources and adapt itself to widely varied situations and functional requirements. His skill as a designer in cast iron was exceptional – he accepted it on its own terms, showing that it was every bit as capable of being a high-art material as the products of pre-industrial crafts. Driver may have achieved renown as a designer of places for entertainment and leisure, but buildings such as Abbey Mills pumping station show that his ability to create visual delight was a constant in his work. The experience of starting or finishing a journey at one of Driver’s railway stations ennobles the passenger and brings pleasure in even the most mundane circumstances. His defence of the mechanical reproduction of ornament made possible by cast iron was that to deny the public its benefits represented selfishness, and it is this generosity of spirit that renders his legacy so valuable today.
Panel of a cast iron screen with the emblem of the Metropolitan Board of Works in the engine house at Crossness
Today’s post forms something of a pendant to the preceding post on Henry Woodyer, not least because it takes in the remarkable church of SS Peter and Paul in Foxearth, Essex. It deals with an architect who, like Woodyer, was active chiefly in the Home Counties. Again like Woodyer, he specialised in ecclesiastical work – new churches, restorations of ancient churches, church schools and charitable institutions. There, however, the similarity ends. Woodyer may have kept out of the limelight, but worked with an eye to posterity, preferring to take on commissions that allowed him to show his mettle and always guarding his aesthetic integrity, even in preference to retaining ancient fabric. The result was a highly distinctive body of work imprinted with a readily identifiable architectural personality. But the subject of today’s post is more elusive.
Holy Trinity, Sittingbourne, Kent: the tower and eastern arm added by Clarke in 1873-1874 to an incomplete building of c. 1867 commenced to a design by R.C. Hussey (1802-1887)
Joseph Clarke is someone who initially gives the impression of being one of Victorian architecture’s also-rans. His name crops up most frequently as a prolific restorer of medieval rural churches across a wide swathe of southeast England. He was surveyor to the Dioceses of Canterbury, Rochester and St Albans, meaning that his domain effectively consisted of the whole of Kent, Essex and Hertfordshire. He seems to have been the default choice in the numerous instances where there was no rich, well-connected patron able to bear the cost of more than a basic overhaul of the fabric or in a position to dictate his own aesthetic preferences. Men like Clarke undoubtedly saved the numerous ancient churches that were approaching the point of no return by the time they stepped in, but often at the expense of character, patina and atmosphere. Dressings were renewed in Bath stone, walling in knapped flint was relaid to achieve a uniform surface, roofs were replaced in their entirety, Stuart and Georgian fittings were discarded and replaced by pitch-pine substitutes with generic, unsophisticated detailing, bright interiors were made gloomy through the introduction of stained glass. In short, it is everything conveyed by a favourite term of 20th century architectural and topographical writers – ‘Victorianised’.
SS Peter and Paul, Foxearth, Essex: parclose screen and wall painting of the Company of Saints on the north side of the chancel
The implications of the term for readers schooled in that coded shorthand are always clear: ‘There is nothing here for the connoisseur, go elsewhere’. The inference in the case of an architect who specialised in such work is that he was an uninspired plodder, and certainly a passing acquaintance with Clarke is unlikely to produce any desire to explore further. Nor is it easy to do so, in any case. To the best of my current knowledge, there is no monograph on him and, surprisingly, he does not warrant a single entry even in The Faber Guide to Victorian Churches. My own acquaintance with his work has proceeded slowly and haphazardly. But a picture has gradually emerged of an architect who is far more interesting than usually imagined. Although it is far from complete, it deserves to be presented here.
The pulpit and tiled flooring introduced by Clarke at St Clement’s Church in Sandwich, Kent during his restoration of this 12th-15th century church in 1865-1870
Training and early years
Clarke’s early biography still awaits study, but it is known that he trained with John Griffith of Finsbury (1796-1888). For the moment, Griffith’s biography is also obscure and his reputation rests on a single, although most remarkable venture. In the early 19th century, London’s dead were still interred in burial grounds attached to parish churches and nonconformist chapels. These were fast running out of space, and it was also becoming evident that decaying corpses were polluting the water supply and spreading disease. The situation was clearly untenable and this stimulated interest in establishing a suburban, garden-style cemetery on the model of Paris’s Père Lachaise. A committee was set up, which purchased a site for the purpose bounded by the Harrow Road and Grand Union Canal in then-rural Middlesex, and in late 1831 it held an architectural competition to find a design. This was won by a Gothic entry contributed by Henry Edward Kendall (1776-1875) and in July the following year an Act of Parliament was passed to authorise a ‘General Cemetery Company for the interment of the Dead in the Neighbourhood of the Metropolis’. This led to the foundation of the General Cemetery of All Souls, Kensal Green, which became the first in a first wave of grand metropolitan cemeteries established during the course of the following 10 years known as ‘The Magnificent Seven’.
The Anglican Chapel at Kensal Green Cemetery (John Griffith, 1835-1836)
Despite the outcome of the competition, company chairman, banker Sir John Dean Paul (1775-1852), hankered after a Grecian design and Kendall’s scheme was eventually abandoned. Griffith, who had been one of the judges of the competition and was a shareholder in the company, was approached instead. Kendall’s picturesque landscaping was discarded in favour of an axial layout with a central avenue leading up to a grandly scaled Anglican chapel, taking the form of a Greek Doric temple with flanking colonnades and pavilions. The Dissenters’ Chapel at the opposite end of the site – the first purpose-built Nonconformist funerary chapel in a public cemetery – took the form of an Ionic temple, albeit more modestly scaled. The entrance gateway mixed Greek and Roman motifs, being treated as a triumphal arch but with attached Greek Doric giant orders.
The Dissenters’ Chapel at Kensal Green Cemetery (John Griffith, 1831-1834) (Martin Brewster)
It is difficult to know what conclusions to draw from all this about Griffith’s influence on his pupil. Architects active during that period tended not to be stylistically dogmatic – the victory of Gothic in the ‘Battle of the Styles’ was a good 25 years in the future – and, as with Thomas Leverton Donaldson and J.P. Seddon, the training was probably most useful for a practical grounding in the field and the opportunities for networking which it brought the younger man. At any rate, Clarke seems to have wasted little time in embedding himself in the architectural establishment and cultivating professional contacts. He became an Associate of the Royal Institute of British Architects in 1841, progressing to Fellow in 1853 and eventually serving as its Vice-President. The three posts of Diocesan Surveyor have been mentioned above; by 1852, he was also in the employ of the Diocesan Boards of Education of Oxford, Rochester and Canterbury. Drawing on his experience, that year he published Schools and School Houses: a series of views, plans, and details, for rural parishes, a book of designs to suit all situations and budgets.
School and college buildings
The book was reviewed in the Civil Engineer & Architect’s Journal in June that year, which welcomed the initiative, calling schoolhouses ‘a very satisfactory test of architectural capacity, because… the end has been that schools have been artistically and economically built, such as will serve of permanent utility, and in many cases of ornament to the localities in which they have been erected. The inference to be fairly drawn by the public from this experience is, that if an architect can be usefully employed on a small schoolroom costing only £120, he can be usefully employed on a small cottage of like outlay’. The reviewer added that hitherto reputable architects had tended to view taking on such commissions as beneath their dignity and that in the few instances where they had involved themselves by producing standard designs, this had done little to improve matters since an executive architect was still required to oversee the siting and construction. Clarke was quoted at length in the review, setting out the factors that needed to be taken into consideration in designing school buildings, such as providing a north light for the desks in the school room and positioning the main rooms of the schoolmaster’s residence so that they faced south. He mentions that in many cases gifts of land as a site for a school, though well intentioned, had done more harm than good, so ill-suited had they proved to be for the function.
The former Church of England school in Foxearth, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1847)
The review was illustrated with a set of plans, elevations and sections, running to two full-page plates, of Clarke’s school at Foxearth in Essex, built in 1847. It should be noted briefly that the previous year there had been a major reorganisation of Anglican dioceses in the southeast of England, and Essex, which had previously fallen within the Diocese of London, was annexed to the Diocese of Rochester, along with all of Hertfordshire. In the previous post on Woodyer, I described how, following his appointment as rector of Foxearth in 1845, the Rev’d John Foster quickly set about restoring his church. Although this ultimately occupied him for several decades, the first phase of work seems to have been completed fairly quickly and Foster then turned his attention to the school. For the site, he purchased the village ale house, located on the main street only a stone’s throw from the church, ‘with the double object of appropriating it to the beneficial purposes of education, as well as removing the source of idleness and intemperance’, states Clarke in the commentary on the design quoted in the review. He notes that Foster paid entirely out of his own pocket not only for the site, but also for the cost of construction, which amounted to £900, hence ‘The detail is richer, and the whole building partakes more of medieval character and composition than can usually be adopted. The roof over the school is taken from one of the few good examples of domestic buildings which we have remaining of the fifteenth century’. As can be seen from the sections reproduced here, it was of crown-post construction, typical of the later Middle Ages.
Artist’s impression and plan of the Church of England school in Foxearth, Essex as illustrated in Joseph Clarke’s Schools and School Houses: a series of views, plans, and details, for rural parishes, published in 1852
Clarke’s antiquarian interests were evidently firmly established by this date and would remain with him for the rest of his life. He was a fellow of the Society of Antiquaries and it was noted in his obituary in The Builder that ‘He was the author of many architectural and archaeological papers’. But he had clearly also imbued much from Pugin, as shown by the clear articulation of the component volumes of the building and the choice of early Decorated Gothic for the detailing and fenestration. The configuration of a large, chapel-like schoolroom with a more compactly massed dwelling for the schoolmaster attached to one end was widely used by Clarke’s contemporaries. It is not clear whether the discrepancies between the published design and the building as now extant, such as the absence of the corridor linking the schoolroom and dwelling house, is due to later alterations. The building is no longer used for its original function and is now a residential conversion.
Sections and elevations of the Church of England school in Foxearth, Essex as illustrated in Joseph Clarke’s Schools and School Houses: a series of views, plans, and details, for rural parishes, published in 1852
Schools require teachers and Clarke’s position as architect to the Diocesan Boards of Education of Rochester and Oxford led to his being commissioned to design two teacher training colleges. By drawing a deliberately unfavourable comparison in Contrasts between the Perpendicular Gothic gatehouse of Christ Church in Oxford and Sir Robert Smirke’s Strand entrance to King’s College London, Pugin had enjoined architects to take medieval collegiate architecture as their model when designing new educational buildings. Clarke took this up enthusiastically for the Diocese of Rochester’s college at Hockerill on the eastern side of Bishop’s Stortford in Hertfordshire. The style he chose was Tudor Gothic – already a little old-fashioned for the date of 1852, though with an excellent historical pedigree for the building type, as exemplified by Queens’, St John’s and Magdalen Colleges in Cambridge. Features such as the crenellated oriel corbelled out over the arch leading into the main quadrangle, the diapered patterning of the wall surfaces, the gabled dormers and the splendid paired octagonal chimneys of moulded brick show that he must have studied the prototypes carefully. During the 20th century the fenestration was altered and the wooden bell turret above the gateway has been lost, but the original appearance is well recorded in this photograph of 1922. The complex was subsequently enlarged in several phases. In 1858, Clarke added a second practising school, apparently still neo-Tudor, then in 1878 a chapel – of brick, but in a plain lancet style. The complex is still used for educational purposes, but is now home to the Hockerill Anglo-European College.
Former Church of England school on The Moor in Hawkhurst, Kent (Joseph Clarke, 1863)
Around the same time, Clarke designed a training college at Culham for the Diocese of Oxford, founded at the initiative of Bishop Samuel Wilberforce (1805-1873). As at Hockerill, the building took the form of a ‘U’-shaped block enclosing a central quadrangle, but here Clarke returned to the manner of the school at Foxearth, employing the Middle-Pointed Gothic promoted during that period by the Ecclesiological Society. Devices such as wilfully asymmetrical elevations and emphatically positioned chimney breasts, together with a varied roofline of tall chimney stacks, dormers and turrets gave visual interest to the long two-storey ranges. Again, subsequent alterations have removed some of the detailing, and Clarke’s intentions are best conveyed by this photograph of the main front range from c. 1900. A chapel was incorporated from the outset, sited a short distance away from the main block and connected to it by a cloister arm. A single-cell, towerless structure, it was furnished internally in the collegiate manner with rows of pews facing each other and the walls were vividly patterned, as shown in this archive image. Whether this was part of Clarke’s original design is unclear, and in any case the chapel was heavily modified in c. 1960. As at Hockerill, the complex has remained in educational use, but is now an international school.
Middle-Pointed for the moneyed
St Mary the Virgin, Farnham, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1858-1859): exterior from northeastSt Mary the Virgin, Farnham, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1858-1859): the sanctuary – the opus sectile figures on a mosaic ground infilling the blind arcading of the reredos were added in 1890 by James Powell & Son (Malcolm Woods)
Clarke’s professional commitments could not have allowed him to move exclusively in the circles of wealthy patrons of the ideals of the Ecclesiological Society in the same way as Woodyer did. But from time to time, the opportunity arose to give more sumptuous treatment to a commission which did not obviously warrant it. In the case of the rebuilding in 1858-1859 of St Mary the Virgin, Farnham, a village just north of Bishop’s Stortford on the Essex side of the county border, this came about thanks to the generosity of Robert Gosling, owner of the Hassobury Estate. He contributed £4,000 of a total cost that eventually ran to £5,000, the remainder being gifted by the then-rector. For a church serving a tiny, sparsely populated rural parish, it is unexpectedly sumptuous. The exterior is faced with rubble coursing of flints and pebbles in the manner of medieval churches in the area, but otherwise this is a sustained and forceful essay in a florid brand of Geometrical Decorated Gothic. The expense lavished on the building shows itself even more clearly within, especially in the wealth of carved detail executed by William Farmer (1825-1879). Around 10 years after executing the work at Farnham, he would go into partnership with his employee William Brindley (1832-1919), forming one of the most celebrated firms of architectural sculptors in Victorian England. Ancaster stone was used for the dressings, with serpentine and various other kinds of coloured marble for the shafts of the reredos, the chancel arch, the lectern and so on. The stained glass in the east window was supplied by Hardman and Co at the time of construction, the remainder followed later.
St Mary the Virgin, Farnham, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1858-1859): interior looking east (Malcolm Woods)St Mary the Virgin, Farnham, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1858-1859): label stop in a spandrel of the south nave arcade (Malcolm Woods)
The following year, an even more exciting opportunity in this vein presented itself, this time in the mill town of Heywood (originally in Lancashire, now Greater Manchester), where Clarke was commissioned to design a new parish church of St Luke to replace a humble 17th century chapel-of-ease. The circumstances of the commission are far from clear (a total of eight commissions in Lancashire, together with a thin scattering of others in Cheshire, Cumbria and West Yorkshire represent a geographical anomaly in Clarke’s output), but one surmises that it was intended as a statement of the self-assuredness brought by the burgeoning cotton industry, which in a few decades had transformed a moorland hamlet into a populous and flourishing town. The wealth generated by the Industrial Revolution in the northwest offered exciting opportunities to architects and Clarke seems to have been swift to exploit them. He evidently already had some standing in east Lancashire, where he had been busy since 1847. That year, he produced a cruciform neo-Norman design for St Michael’s Church in Lumb, Rossendale and a surprisingly sophisticated piece of revived Perpendicular, given its date, for St Bartholomew’s in Whitworth. Both are still extant, although the former is a residential conversion and the latter was much altered when it was rebuilt in 1988 after a serious fire.
In 1854, Clarke built Dunster House in Rochdale, a Gothic suburban mansion for the wealthy stockbroker Jonathan Neild, who was a managing partner in the bank of J. & J. Fenton and Sons. It was opulently finished internally, with an elaborate decorative scheme, much stained glass and a cantilevered stone staircase, and it was hung with the owner’s extensive collection of paintings. It was the only house in Lancashire to be included in the gazetteer of Charles Eastlake’s A History of the Gothic Revival of 1872. Clarke was brought back to extend the house in 1862, but Neild was ruined by the failure of the bank in 1878 and sold the property, which was subsequently divided into flats and then demolished in 1968 following the discovery of an outbreak of dry rot. A tiny fragment salvaged at the time of demolition, which was put up for sale at auction five years ago, hints at the richness of the lost interiors.
Artist’s impression of the interior of St Luke’s in Heywood as illustrated in the Building News of 10th May 1861Dunster House, Rochdale, Greater Manchester (Joseph Clarke, 1854): entrance front
At Heywood the budget was generous, and circumstantial evidence suggests that this was due to the munificence of the Fentons, for whom Clarke incorporated a private chapel extending out from the north side of the chancel. Clarke produced a thoroughly Puginian essay in best Middle Pointed on a grand scale, with a lofty interior (unusually, the chancel is clerestoried and almost the same height as the nave) and soaring tower and spire rising to 189 feet (57.6m). It was completed in 1862, although works to embellish the interior continued for long afterwards. Some of these, such as the reredos, pulpit and font, introduced in the 1880s, were executed under Clarke’s supervision. Others were not, such as the windows by Belgian stained glass artist Jean-Baptiste Capronnier in the Fenton chapel.
St Alban’s, Rochdale, Greater Manchester (Joseph Clarke, 1855-1856): exterior from southeast photographed around the time the church was made redundant in 1971 (Historic England)Artist’s impression of the chancel of St Alban’s in Rochdale depicting the intended decorative scheme, as illustrated in The Builder of 29th August 1863
Thanks to another generous local benefactor, shortly after St Luke’s was completed, Clarke was given full rein to execute a substantial decorative scheme at the church of St Alban in Rochdale (originally Lancashire, now Greater Manchester). Originally built to his designs in 1855-1856, this was another Puginian essay in Middle-Pointed. On 28th August 1863, The Builder reported that ‘It is proposed, for the reredos, to paint a triptych, after the manner of the early Florentine painters, the subjects to be ‘The Lord’s Supper’ with others supplementary. The east wall, above the string-course, will be painted in fresco, adopting the new water-glass process [i.e. treating the painted surface with potassium silicate or sodium silicate to create a protective film, thought at the time to be capable of guarding against the effects of atmospheric pollution], with subjects from the Incarnation of Our Lord; whilst the lower part, in a line with the reredos, is proposed to be enriched with Algerian onyx marbles, and ceramic work. A series painted similarly in fresco, the subjects taken from the miracles or parables of Christ, or from the lives of the saints, will occupy the upper part of the north and south walls. The lower part of these walls will be coloured, in diaper or otherwise. The roof [will be] painted with a representation of a choir of Angels. The stonework of the arches, &c, will be slightly enriched with colour. At the sides of the chancel-arch, the Commandments will be written; and above, will be the seven Acts of Mercy, or other subjects. The present tiles will be removed and a more appropriate floor relaid’.
High Victorianism for the capital
Proposed quadrangle with chapel, refectory and dormitories at the House of St Barnabas on Greek Street in Soho, London, as originally conceived by Clarke and as illustrated in The Builder of 7th June 1862
Impressive and competent though all these designs are, they do not evidence a particularly strong artistic personality. There is little unequivocally identifiable as the work of Clarke and no one else. But shortly afterwards, his architecture took a different turn. Unless further scholarship provides grounds for a revision of this assessment, it seems to have happened in 1862, when he was commissioned to design a chapel for the House of Charity (later known as the House of St Barnabas) in London’s Soho. Founded in 1846 to provide relief for the destitute and homeless, this institution initially occupied premises on Manette Street. In 1862, it moved a short distance to No. 1 Greek Street, a splendid mansion originally built c. 1746 as a speculative venture. In 1754, the lease on the property was sold to Richard Beckford (1712-1756), brother of MP and twice-Lord Mayor of London, William Beckford (bap. 1709, d. 1770), who lived nearby at No. 22 Soho Square. Both Beckfords were extremely wealthy men, who owned their fortunes to the extensive plantations that their family owned in Jamaica, where Richard had resided until taking up residence at No. 1 Greek Street. In the event, he occupied the property for only around 12 months, but during that time (the evidence is not absolutely conclusive) he had what may have an empty shell at the time of acquisition opulently fitted out in a Rococo manner. In 1811, the property was taken over as office accommodation by the Westminster Commissioners of Sewers, passing in due course to the Metropolitan Board of Works.
Chapel of the House of St Barnabas in Soho, London (Joseph Clarke, 1862-1863): apse and sanctuary (John Salmon)
The House of Charity’s first list of associated members included several august figures, among them William Gladstone. Conceivably, Clarke’s engagement came about as a result of the position he held, recorded in his obituary in The Builder, as consulting architect to the Charity Commissioners, although it is not currently known when he took this up. ‘It is a fine house; and in all the alterations made by the charity, at an expense of nearly £2,000, all its decorative features have been preserved’, proudly reported The Builder in its issue of 7th June 1862. ‘The elaborate plaster ceilings, with the carved chimneypieces and wainscot panelling, have come out quite fresh again. Considerable alterations have been made; and the old members of the Board would now hardly find their way about’. But if the work carried out on the Georgian property respected its character, the next phase would be profoundly at odds with it.
Chapel of the House of St Barnabas in Soho, London (Joseph Clarke, 1862-1863): interior looking northwest – the object suspended from the ceiling is an artwork. (John Salmon)
Clarke’s brief was to build over a vacant site to the rear of the property with a complex of new buildings. The site fronted Manette Street at its southern end, and here he proposed to erect a large chapel to enclose the space, which would be turned into a quadrangle. Dormitories would extend out from a refectory on the northern side and all the parts of the complex would be interconnected by a cloister walk at ground-floor level. ‘The walls of the chapel are fast rising’ reported The Builder, but when the shell was completed the following year, it emerged that there was a considerable shortfall in the funding and the remaining elements of the scheme were abandoned. The Sainte-Chapelle in Paris was a popular model for institutional places of worship at the time and something of that building comes across in the tall, narrow proportions of the main volume with its apsidal east end and the flèche perched on the roof ridge. But the style that Clarke chose was not the Rayonnant Gothic of the original, but a muscular Gothic based on earlier French models, which has a close kindship with the work of William Burges. The planning was also unexpected: essentially, it was to be seated internally like a college chapel, with staff, council members and the choir facing each other in the nave, but behind these banks of pews there extended out pairs of lateral apses on either side, where the inmates of the House were to sit. Funds sufficed for an opulent interior incorporating shafts of serpentine and green Irish and Devon marbles, mosaics, much foliate carving, marble revetments and stained glass (all destroyed during World War II). But the flèche, intended to have been executed by Skidmore of Coventry, seems to have been much simplified in execution and later disappeared entirely.
Street front of the Royal Architectural Museum on Tufton Street in Westminster by Joseph Clarke and Ewan Christian, as illustrated in The Builder of 24th July 1869 around the time of its completion
Much of Clarke’s vigorous High Victorian manner also comes across in the splendidly chunky village school of 1863 in the village of Hawkhurst on the western edge of Kent that he designed in his capacity as architect to the Canterbury Diocesan Board of Education. It also comes across in what little is recorded of the appearance of the long lost Royal Architectural Museum. Pugin had enjoined students of Gothic to treat England’s medieval heritage as a school, and to study buildings on the ground to understand the true principles of the style. But at a time when the railway network was still limited in its extent, this was easier said than done. Printed illustrations alone could not suffice, and it was believed necessary to establish a publicly accessible collection of examples of Gothic detailing and ornament to uphold good standards. In 1851, George Gilbert Scott wrote to The Builder setting out a plan for a Government-funded ‘Public Museum of Mediaeval Art’ and the initiative was enthusiastically supported by Clarke, who in due course became vice-president. The museum was in operation by the following year and a collection of plaster casts was soon complemented by original examples of decorative ironwork, tiles, woodcarving, sculptural stonework, stained glass, architectural models and drawings. The Museum also incorporated a school for art-workmen. But its early history was precarious, threatened by poor quality accommodation and a lack of funding. Despite the patronage of Prince Albert and the support of John Ruskin, an attempt to relocate it to the South Kensington Museum proved unsuccessful and it became clear that it needed its own premises.
Plaster casts displayed in the Royal Architectural Museum (Cornell University Library @ Flickr Commons)
A lease was taken out on a site at Nos 18-20 Tufton Street in Westminster and a new building erected, which opened in 1869. It was a joint effort by Clarke and Ewan Christian (1814-1895), but the exact nature of their collaboration is unknown and the design lacks features which could be confidently and unequivocally attributed to either man – Christian was every bit as proficient as Clarke in the High Victorian manner. The site, in the centre of a city block bounded by thoroughfares on all four sides, was constricted and allowed for only a relatively narrow street frontage. The slightly top-heavy composition of the elevation, with blind arches encompassing the upper two storeys and a tall parapet to hide the roof, was in the Ruskinian line. The media and subject matter of the prominent frieze and reliefs are unknown, although one suspects majolica or terracotta. The internal layout is a mystery: all that can be deduced from surviving illustrations, in which the structure of the building is all but obscured by the displayed plaster casts, is that there was a top-lit, atrium-like space rising the height of the building with galleries running round it at first- and second-floor levels. On Scott’s death in 1878, J.P. Seddon became President and in 1884 he published a guide illustrated by T. Raffles Davison to a collection that now numbered over 6,000 items. In 1904 the Museum was subsumed by the Architectural Association, whose school occupied part of the premises until 1915, when it was decided that conditions were too cramped. The collections were dispersed, primarily to the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the building was sold the following year, serving as the National Library for the Blind until it was demolished in 1935.
Church restorations and not only
The medieval church of St Margaret’s in Hucking, Kent, restored by Clarke in 1867-1868: exterior from southwestThe medieval church of St Margaret’s in Hucking, Kent, restored by Clarke in 1867-1868: sanctuary and reredos
It would be disingenuous to pretend that all the numerous restorations that Clarke carried out on medieval churches reward close study. But at his best, he was capable of adding a great deal of interest and character, and this is well illustrated by St Margaret’s Church in Hucking, a tiny village on the Kent Downs between Maidstone and Sittingbourne. Resemblance to the medieval church, recorded in Petrie’s watercolour of 1807, is largely coincidental. Clarke’s restoration of 1867-1868 was very extensive and none of the original fabric seems to have survived untouched: the walls were refaced, all the dressings were renewed, the roof and bell turret were replaced in their entirety and the building was refurnished. The work bears an unmistakably High Victorian stamp and the east window, replacing a three-light, Perpendicular predecessor, is entirely Clarke’s invention. The interior is dimly lit and rustic, with simple, robust furnishings, but as one progresses to the chancel, where two-light windows dispel some of the gloom, a dazzling display of tiles comes into view. The floor of the sanctuary is laid to an extensive variety of patterned encaustic tiles, used also for the reredos, where the palette is expanded and chevron banding and borders with stylised plant motifs are brought into play. Above is a window of stained glass by Clayton and Bell, installed at the time of the restoration, depicting events from the Life of Christ. Encountering such richness and colour as the unexpected culmination of a plain, rustic interior achieves a memorable coup de théâtre and embodies a precept of the Ecclesiological Society applied with similar skill in the designs of rural churches by R.J. Withers. The immense font of alabaster and Devon marble at the opposite end of the building forms an effective counterpoint.
The medieval church of St Margaret’s in Hucking, Kent, restored by Clarke in 1867-1868: interior looking eastThe medieval church of St Margaret’s in Hucking, Kent, restored by Clarke in 1867-1868: the font
If decorative effects had to be deployed tactfully in a simple rural church, no such strictures applied at St Mary’s in Beddington, one of Clarke’s most notable ecclesiastical commissions. By the end of the 19th century, the Surrey village that this large medieval parish church served would effectively have been subsumed into the outer suburbs of the capital (it is now part of the London Borough of Sutton), but at this date it was still positively bucolic relative to the over-populated, heavily polluted centre of the metropolis. This circumstance may have brought about Clarke’s introduction to the place. During the course of the 19th and early 20th centuries, the capital’s public schools and charitable institutions began to move out of central London to more salubrious suburban and rural locations. One such was the Lambeth Female Orphan Asylum, which had originally been established in 1758 in premises on the South Bank to house orphan girls whose parents’ abode could not be established, meaning that there was no parish to which their upkeep could be assigned. This would have left them destitute and at risk of being drawn into prostitution. Girls were admitted between the ages of nine and twelve, housed and educated, and then apprenticed as a domestic servant or into a trade from the age of about fifteen.
In 1866, the Asylum moved to Beddington Place, the former home of the Carew family. In origin this was a Tudor mansion, but only the great hall had survived a major remodelling carried out in 1702-1714, which incorporated it into the central wing of a half-H-plan house. As shown by the illustration of the main front in Vitruvius Britannicus, its Perpendicular Gothic forms were disguised externally by an English Baroque recasing with a central entrance and giant order Corinthian pilasters. Clarke was commissioned to undertake a second remodelling carried out in 1865-1866 to adapt the building to its new function and, although the hypothesis has yet to be corroborated, it seems likely that this came about thanks to his position as consulting architect to the Charity Commissioners. He demolished the end wings, substituting replacements which extended outwards to form a courtyard, which he enclosed on the fourth side with a single-storey walkway and entrance pavilion. The clocktower over the main entrance to the great hall was remodelled and heightened. All the English Baroque detail was planed off the great hall, which was refaced in brick with Perpendicular Gothic fenestration, the remainder of the complex being treated in a loose neo-Tudor manner to harmonise with it. It was an unhappy compromise and the retention of the symmetrical layout initiated by the English Baroque remodelling, combined with the weakness of the detailing that lacks the conviction of Hockerill College, would reinforce many prejudices about Victorian institutional buildings. The Asylum later moved again, this time to High Wycombe, and its former premises are now occupied by the Carew Academy.
St Mary’s, Beddington, Surrey (medieval, restored by Joseph Clarke, 1867-1869): general view of the interior looking east (Andrew Wood)St Mary’s, Beddington, Surrey: the organ case on the north side of the chancel of 1869 with decorations by Morris & Co (Andrew Wood)
It is hardly surprising in the circumstances that the year after the Asylum took up residence at Beddington Place, Clarke was commissioned to undertake a restoration of neighbouring St Mary’s Church by the Rev’d A.H. Bridges, who had been appointed rector in 1864. To an extent, the one commission grew naturally out of the other – the Asylum’s original premises had incorporated a chapel, and Clarke’s brief included the addition of a new outer north aisle to provide accommodation for the inmates. But the wealthy Bridges had ambitious plans for the building and the scheme, carried out in 1867-1869, went a long way beyond the provision of extra seating. Much of the chiefly 14th century fabric of the building was renewed – the walls were refaced, dressings recut, a chancel arch constructed and the roofs rebuilt. A two-storey vestry was added in the angle of the new outer north aisle and the north side of the tower. It is strikingly modelled, with double gables, a prominent chimney and fenestration that is more obviously High Victorian than the Decorated Gothic with reticulated tracery that Clarke used for the adjacent elevation of the aisle. Internally, the church was refurnished and acquired a spectacular scheme of painted decoration applied to the walls and roof structure. The quality is considerable and one would like to know more, but research is needed to establish who devised the iconography, who was responsible for the design and who executed it. The pièce de résistance is the organ, a personal gift of Bridges, housed in a case with exuberant painted decoration by Morris & Co. It is in many ways a typical product of the firm, but, as with the wall paintings, whether Clarke was involved in the design and, if so, what the nature of his involvement was, remains to be elucidated.
St Mary’s, Beddington, Surrey (medieval, restored by Joseph Clarke, 1867-1869): the chancel roof (Andrew Wood)St Mary’s, Beddington, Surrey: Joseph Clarke’s gatehouse to the new burial ground of c.1868 (Angela Parker Photography)
At some point no later than when the restoration was carried out, the churchyard was extended with the addition of a new detached burial ground on the opposite side of Church Road. For this, Clarke provided a charming gatehouse with separate hipped roofs over the pedestrian and vehicle entrances, with what looks like it may be a sexton’s hut under a lean-to roof. Bridges had acquired much of the former parkland of Beddington Place, which he had enclosed and where he carried out all sorts of improvements. This included the provision of a lodge at the entrance to the park and for the design he turned once again to Clarke. This went up in 1878, and the time lag between this and the work carried out on the church is immediately evident, for stylistically it is worlds apart from any other building by the architect discussed here. Though the genealogy is that of the cottage orné, as shown by features such as the imitation half-timbering and overscaled bargeboards, the influence of the Queen Anne style is unmistakable, and indeed carried almost to the point of parody. The prominent spreading roof with its tall central chimney owes more than a little to W.E. Nesfield’s Avenue Lodge of 1866 at Kew Gardens, a locus classicus for the early development of the style. The deep coving running beneath the eaves is another device to be found there which was much taken up by practitioners of the style, as was the elaborate pargeted decoration applied both to that and to the panels in the timbering. The planning is ingenious, the main volume taking the form of a slightly elongated octagon to allow the building to address both of the arms of Church Road, which forks in front of it. The hipped dormer above the porch is crowned by a wrought iron finial in the shape of a sunflower, the badge of the Aesthetic Movement which was inextricably linked with the Queen Anne style. It is a sustained performance carried off with huge flair, and it would be interesting to know whether it has any counterparts or remained unique in Clarke’s output.
East Lodge, Beddington Park, Surrey (Joseph Clarke, 1878), view from south showing main entrance (Wikipedia Commons)East Lodge, Beddington Park as illustrated in The Building News of 4th October 1878
Clarke returned to Foxearth late in his career, carrying out a third phase in Foster’s remodelling of the church of SS Peter and Paul in c. 1884. Frustratingly, the nature of his involvement remains unclear and, unless research can throw more light on the matter, has to be deduced through process of elimination. In the early years of his incumbency, Foster added the south porch and reputedly refurnished the building. The steeple, added in 1862, was the work of Henry Woodyer, but there is currently no reason to think that he did any more than that and nothing else in the building that bears obvious hallmarks of his style. Clarke’s contribution, most probably, was the wall paintings in the chancel. It would fit with his interest in painted decorative schemes and the drawing of the figures and composition (with a frieze-like band of full-height figures occupying the upper half of the wall) gives them a slight affinity with those at Beddington. The tympanum filling the roof truss at the junction of nave and chancel, decorated with a composition depicting Christ in Glory surrounded by the symbols of the Evangelists, appears to be part of the same scheme, as do the polychrome decoration of the roof structure and the figures of angels mounted on brackets extending out from the wall plate in the chancel. Conceivably at least some of the chancel fittings are also Clarke’s work. The upper part of the rood screen (though much restored, the dado with its figures of saints is early 16th century) is plausibly of this date – it would represent exceptionally sophisticated treatment of Perpendicular Gothic for the 1840s, to say nothing of still being liturgically contentious at that time. Perhaps the elaborate tiled pavement in the sanctuary is also Clarke’s work, but this, like all the other attributions, must remain a tentative conjecture.
SS Peter and Paul, Foxearth, Essex: the tympanum above the rood screenSS Peter and Paul, Foxearth, Essex: interior looking west from the chancel
Conclusion
St Mary’s, Beddington, Surrey (medieval, restored by Joseph Clarke, 1867-1869): the sedilia and piscina on the south side of the sanctuary (Andrew Wood)
Clarke is representative of a particular group of Victorian architects, to whom one might add names such as Ewan Christian or A.W. Blomfield, often dismissed with the epithet ‘a safe pair of hands’. They were consummate professionals, well regarded by their peers and by the Establishment, who had an inordinate capacity for work and who could be depended upon to deliver proficient and durable results on time and on budget. They were the foot soldiers of the Gothic Revival – as the influence of the Ecclesiological Society spread to even the furthest flung corners of the British Isles and as the Established Church strove to keep pace with rapid urban expansion, so they were always on hand to design premises to further its mission through the cure of souls, education and relief of poverty. Figures such as Pugin and Ruskin had preached the Word, disciples such as Clarke would now go and teach the nations. At the same time, they were temperamentally the very inverse of art-architects such as Henry Woodyer. Stylistically, they were seldom in the vanguard. They founded no movements, nor did they cultivate individuality. They were good committee men, who would rather content themselves with a salaried post and dependable stream of commissions from a well-established employer than seeking out opportunities for self-expression and prestige. In short, they were worthy, but dull.
St Mary the Virgin, Farnham, Essex (Joseph Clarke, 1858-1859): exterior from west
Or so, at any rate, received opinion goes. But critical assessment in all branches of art history often falls back on generalisations, and never more so than when dealing with the legacy of prolific figures such as Clarke. Forming an objective view is impossible because of the dearth of scholarly literature. These are not figures through the study of whom academic reputations are made, and the sheer size of the subject in comparison to the rewards to be gained tends to act as a deterrent to would-be students of them. A brief survey such as this post cannot fill that gap, but it can at least whet the appetite of anyone curious about Clarke’s work and thereby help to make the case for devoting time and effort to a proper study of him and his collaborators. Fluency in his command of Gothic was matched by fluency in his command of the architectural language of his contemporaries: the chapel of St Barnabas is no mere pale imitation of William Burges, the lodge at Beddington Park much more than just derivative of W.E. Nesfield. But this is about far more than filling a lacuna in literature on the Victorian period. Ultimately, the strongest motivation for studying any architecture is its ability to bring pleasure and delight, and that is what I hope the reader has been above to derive from the examples of Clarke’s work selected for this post.
SS Peter and Paul, Foxearth, Essex: general view of the chancel – the stained glass in the east window is by Charles Clutterbuck the Elder (1806-1861) and dates from the mid-1850s.
This blog does not deal primarily with lost heritage, but recently a long-vanished building was brought to my attention which is simply too good not to feature here. The most grievous losses suffered by 19th and early 20th century architectural heritage as a result of accident, war damage, changes of fashion and redevelopment are well known, and Gavin Stamp’s Lost Victorian Britain provides a good, if depressing national overview. But they were so extensive that only the most voluminous of publications could ever provide an exhaustive catalogue. That this loss should not be better known is surprising because it was inflicted on a major city and on the legacy of someone whose output otherwise survives well. But it forms a useful hook on which to hang an introduction to a wonderful architect whose colourful and entertaining work gives endless pleasure and delight. About him in due course, but first, the sad story of the building featured in the picture below.
St Raphael’s Church and Almshouses, Cumberland Road, Bristol (Henry Woodyer, 1858-1859, demolished): view from southwest. The taller building with the prominent chimneys in the background is St Raphael’s House of Charity.
St Raphael’s Church and almshouses, Bristol
Although the whole ensemble has a clearly ecclesiastical character, this was more than just a place of worship. This establishment was founded as a mission to active seamen and almshouses for retired sailors and the widows of those who had been lost at sea. It was the initiative of Canon R.H.W. Miles, who paid the entire cost of construction out of his own pocket. This was carried out in 1858-1859 and ran to some £10,000. Miles chose for it a site on Cumberland Road in the harbour area on Spike Island. To the south, the complex fronted the embankment of the River Avon, while to the rear was an extensive network of railway lines serving the docks. It was dominated by the chapel, a substantial affair 100ft (30.5m) long and 51ft (15.5m) wide, capable of seating up to 350 worshippers. This was a single volume and externally the division between nave and chancel was marked only by a wooden bellcote of quite fantastical form. Internally, the label stops of the arcades were decorated by carvings of anchors, nets, seaweed and other items with nautical associations. The east window was filled with stained glass by Hardman and the reredos was constructed of variously coloured types of marble.
St Raphael’s Church, Cumberland Road, Bristol (Henry Woodyer, 1858-1859, demolished): the interior looking east
The church was adjoined to the west by an elongated range, 160ft (48.8m) in length, consisting of a terrace of six almshouses terminating at the opposite end in a residence for the chaplain. This was effectively a single-storey construction, although as the prominent dormers make clear, there was accommodation in the roof space. A cloister walk ran the entire length, providing covered access between all the parts of the complex. There were small walled gardens to the rear, a larger walled garden at the west end of the site for the chaplain, and a grassed communal area that was larger still to the Cumberland Road side. Twenty years after the almhouses went up, another charitable institution appeared on the neighbouring site to the east. Opened in 1880, St Raphael’s House of Charity – it is not currently clear exactly to whom it ministered – was a substantial affair, four storeys in height on a raised basement with a chapel of its own, designed by local architect Edward Henry Edwards. Like St Raphael’s, it was Gothic and the two must have made a most imposing ensemble. But for all of Miles’s good intentions, his venture proved to be ill-starred. The chaplain made St Raphael’s a centre for Anglo-Catholic ritualism and overstepped the bounds of liturgical and theological propriety to such a degree that in 1878 his licence was revoked by the Bishop. The chapel closed and did not reopen until 1893, now as a parish church.
St Raphael’s House of Charity, Cumberland Road, Bristol (E.H. Edward, demolished): view from north west, artist’s impression published in The Building News of 10 January 1879
The complex was damaged by bombing during World War II. The effects do not seem to have been serious, but, as happened in so many cases, this provided a convenient excuse to offload a building which was by now a liability. One conjectures that the dock area was becoming depopulated and the church was far too big viably to resume its role as an institutional chapel. St Raphael’s was made redundant in 1946 and used for a short time as a warehouse (a vehicle entrance was opened in the east wall) before being demolished in 1953. The almshouses survived a little longer, but seem to have been disused and dilapidated by the time they were demolished in 1970. St Raphael’s House of Charity has also disappeared without a trace. All that survives today is the lower part of the west wall of the church with a pent roof between two buttresses (not statutorily listed) spanning what appears to be a public right of way that runs between two modern blocks of flats. It was a sad loss by any standards and particularly so in the context both of Bristol’s architectural heritage and the output of its architect. As is noted in Andor Gomme, Michael Jenner and Bryan Little’s Bristol, an Architectural History, it was ‘one of the best works of the underrated Henry Woodyer, and the church the only one in Victorian Bristol to be anywhere near the class of [G.E.] Street’s great buildings of the 1860s’. The last comment alludes to Street’s church of All Saints in Clifton (designed 1863, finished c. 1881, demolished in 1964 after being gutted in World War II) and the nave and west towers that he added to the cathedral (designed 1867, completed in 1888).
The triple chancel arch at St Mary’s, Westwell in Kent, thought by John Newman in The Buildings of England to be an insertion into older fabric dating from no earlier than c. 1250. This is the possible inspiration for a distinctive device used by Woodyer at Twinstead and elsewhere.
Background and training
Since Bristol, an Architectural History was published in 1979, Woodyer might deserve at the very least to be recategorized as ‘poorly known’, as he has been the subject of a monograph that includes a comprehensive catalogue of his works: John Elliott and John Pritchard (eds.), Henry Woodyer, Gentleman Architect (Reading: Department of Continuing Education, The University of Reading, 2002). I am indebted to that source for much of the information presented here, especially the extensive biographical details. A perusal of that book will quickly demonstrate why Woodyer merited serious scholarly attention and that his stock deserves to be high. But it has one major failing, which is the small number of colour plates and the poor quality of the reproductions. Presumably this was the result of a need to keep costs down (ultimately to no avail, as the book is expensive to acquire, although that is due more to the limited number of copies in circulation), but it sells badly short an architect in whose work material, colour, pattern and texture all play a very important role. That is something that I would like to rectify here.
‘Contrasted Residences for the Poor’ from A.W.N. Pugin’s Contrasts
Woodyer’s upbringing and professional formation are important, as they throw light on why he built as he did, where he did and for whom he did. He was born in Guildford to a father who had a successful and lucrative practice as a surgeon and accoucheur. Brought up in comfortable circumstances, he was sent to Eton and then was a student at Merton College, Oxford between 1835 and 1838. This was not a typical background for an architect at the time (it was a line of work viewed more as a trade to be acquired through apprenticeship than a learned profession) and there was little in his educational career that suggested a predisposition to the vocation that he eventually chose. He is supposedly the first Old Etonian to have become a professional architect. Thomas Gambier Parry (1816-1888), the artist, art historian and art collector, claimed that, contemplating his future on graduation, Woodyer at first vacillated between law and Holy Orders. But Woodyer’s university education did have one very important bearing on his career in that it placed him right at the centre of considerable theological ferment from which High Anglicanism eventually emerged. John Keble had delivered his Assize Sermon ‘National Apostasy’ two years before Woodyer went up to Oxford, and the publication of Tracts for the Times was in full flood throughout his undergraduate career. Many of Woodyer’s contemporaries from both school and university, including Parry, fell under the influence of the so-called Oxford Movement, subsequently referred to more generally as the High Church. Though initially theological and liturgical, it soon became a vitally important driving force in the rediscovery of Gothic architecture, promoting the style not merely as a fashion, but as symbolic of a revived Anglican faith that had rediscovered its place as part of the One Catholic and Apostolic Church.
A.W.N. Pugin’s gatehouse at Oxenford in Peter Harow, Surrey of c. 1843
By January 1842, Woodyer was back in his home town designing fittings for one of its churches and came into contact with the Rev’d John Mason Neale (1818-1866), who three years earlier as an undergraduate at Cambridge had founded the Cambridge Camden (later Ecclesiological) Society with Edward Boyce and Benjamin Webb to define correct principles of church architecture and decoration, ritual and music. Woodyer was approvingly recorded in Neale’s diary as ‘a man of some architectural taste’, but at that date he still lacked any professional training. This may have come three years later when he seems to have come into contact with A.W.N. Pugin (1812-1852), who was busy at Peper Harow, a few miles to the southwest of Guildford. In 1843, Pugin designed a barn and fortified gatehouse at Oxenford on the Peper Harow estate, and the following year he extensively remodelled the parish church of St Nicholas, of which Woodyer’s uncle by marriage was rector. In an entry for 1845, Pugin records Woodyer’s name and address in his diary, but whether this led to any prolonged contact between the two men is unknown. However, the course was now set. That same year, Woodyer set up an office in Guildford and quickly received a commission for a new church in the hamlet of Wyke near Ash in Surrey. Then in 1846 he entered the office of William Butterfield (1814-1900) as one of only two pupils that he is known ever to have taken. The two worked together on the restoration of the medieval collegiate church at Ottery St Mary in Devon and evidence from London Post Office Directories suggests that Woodyer maintained some kind of presence in Butterfield’s office until as late as 1857. At any rate, the two remained in contact and from time to time Woodyer approached his former mentor for professional advice.
Career and style
St Martha-on-the-Hill, Chilworth, Surrey: Woodyer’s reconstruction carried out in 1848-1850 of a medieval church which had fallen into serious disrepair. The roof of the chancel and transepts had fallen in two years before he began work and the nave had long been a ruin, but he allowed himself considerable licence – the central tower is entirely his invention (Michael Coppins, Wikipedia Commons).
In the previous post on J.P. Seddon, I looked at an architect who advanced his career by cultivating contacts in professional organisations, participating in architectural competitions, lecturing and writing. In many ways, Woodyer is the exact inverse of that. He was not clubbable, nor a believer in architecture as a profession. He never joined the RIBA, the Royal Academy or even – surprisingly – the Ecclesiological Society. He shunned architectural competitions. Once he had wound up whatever presence he had had at Butterfield’s office, he worked solely out of the estate at Grafham in the Surrey Hills. He purchased this in 1854, rebuilding on a grander scale the farmhouse that formerly occupied it to include office accommodation for his practice and laying out a formal garden. He never occupied any post as diocesan architect and held no surveyorships. He did not actively seek commissions and did not advertise his services, preferring instead to take advantage of personal connections made at school and university. Though he apparently later rued the fact that no opportunity had ever arisen to build something in Oxford, there seem otherwise to have been no regrets and one surmises that he was selective about the jobs that he took on. In part, this was because the practice was never big, but in any case he could afford to be discerning: on his father’s death in 1849, he inherited several properties and a private asylum, making him independently wealthy. Though his marriage was tragically short-lived (Frances died 10 months after their wedding, not long after giving birth to their only daughter), his wife had also been brought up in comfortable circumstances and he benefited from the money that had been left in trust to her by her mother. He dressed rakishly and owned a yacht called The Queen Mab, a substantial craft with six berths that required a crew of three.
St Mary’s Church, Stratford St Mary, Suffolk – the upper stages of the tower, completely rebuilt to Woodyer’s design when he remodelled this large Stour Valley wool church for the Rev’d Henry Golding in 1876-1879.
Though he dealt with a small amount of country house work, Woodyer was primarily an ecclesiastical architect. Churches (both new buildings and restorations of existing ones) account for 60 percent of his output. If one widens the definition to include any work for a client in ecclesiastical circles, such as parsonages, church schools, religious houses and charitable institutions, that figure rises to 90 percent. It needs to be stressed at this point that the activity of the High Church embraced not just liturgical and aesthetic but also social reform. In Contrasts (published 1836, revised 1841), Pugin advanced the notion that a decline in architectural standards with the abandonment of Gothic in the 16th century had led to moral degradation, poignantly demonstrated by the paired illustrations of ‘Contrasted Residences for the Poor’. High Church clergy – and J.M. Neale is an important case in point – were actively engaged in establishing missions to the fast-growing major industrial and commercial centres and organising relief for the dire poverty caused by overcrowding and exploitative working conditions.
For that reason, St Raphael’s represents the quintessence of Woodyer’s milieu. But in all other respects, it is a most unusual building for him, since he worked primarily in rural areas and his few urban churches are almost exclusively in country towns. He designed only one in the capital, St Augustine’s in Haggerston, east London (1865-1870). Even that qualification might be narrowed still further, since Woodyer was active primarily in the Home Counties and then mostly to the southwest of London. Where there are geographical outliers, it seems generally that a ‘bridgehead’ would lead to a scattering of more commissions in the locality. Thus it was, for example, that the new church that he designed at Parry’s estate of Highnam Court and the restoration of the existing church and new school at Upton St Leonards, jobs both won in 1849 and both in the vicinity of Gloucester, led to a crop of buildings in that county. St Raphael’s is again unusual for remaining his only job in Bristol. Woodyer’s output begins to fall off in the 1870s and largely ceased after his daughter Hester married in 1891. One of his last jobs was to remodel a half-timbered farmhouse outside Padworth in west Berkshire, which he had purchased in 1893 (it survives, and surprisingly is not covered by any statutory designation). He look up residence there in 1895, but was in poor health and died the following year.
Though the question of Pugin’s direct influence on him will probably remain forever open, Woodyer was very much an architect in the Puginian mould. His sources were essentially English Gothic of the late 13th and early 14th centuries. He showed no interest in the early French Gothic with its ‘vigour’ and ‘go’ that had such an influence on his contemporaries, and he resisted the influence of the Ruskinian aesthetic derived from Italian sources. Indeed, his style changed little throughout the course of his career. But whereas Pugin’s architecture aims to conjure up a vision of the Middle Ages – albeit one conceived by a medieval architect of exceptional skill and individuality – Woodyer always achieves an effect readily identifiable as a product of the 19th century. In some ways, it is Gothic in a hall of mirrors. Proportions are distorted (take, for instance, the arcades at St Raphael’s, with arches that are enormously wide and tall in relation to the diminutive piers on which they rest) and individual features overscaled.
St Michael and All Angels, Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire (designed 1853, built 1854-1856): general view of the interior looking west from the chancel. The first collegiate church to be established in England since the Reformation, it was intended by its founder, clergyman and musician Sir Frederick Gore Ouseley (1825-1889), to train choristers, who provided daily sung worship here, with a view to improving the standards of church music nationally. Ousley bore much of the total cost of £20,000 himself and no expense was spared. Note that even the organ pipes are painted and gilded – individually, rather than according to a unified scheme.
This wilful, sometimes even perverse treatment of historical models places Woodyer in a similar line of development to that demonstrated by Charles Buxton’s buildings on his estate of Foxwarren – a concern with eliciting a primarily emotional response in the viewer that arguably points ultimately towards the work of 20th century Expressionists. By the same token, his architecture encapsulates Romanticism in its purest form and what Ian Nairn said about an early design by Woodyer’s teacher – St Mary Magdalen, West Lavington in West Sussex of 1850 – might well be applied to the work of his pupil: ‘Butterfield’s artistic pattern – like Beethoven, unlike Haydn – was one in which inspiration was everything. Without it, his buildings are worse than dull: with it, they catch alight, ordinary Middle Pointed details smouldering away with an intensity and rigidity which would probably astonish their 13th century creators’. But whereas Butterfield could be aggressively strident, Woodyer tends more to playful and picturesque effects, sometimes verging on the grotesque. The originality is concentrated in the detailing and ornament, much of which is highly capricious. It begs the question of where exactly ‘roguishness’ in Victorian Gothic ends and gives the lie to the notion that archaeological correctness and seriousness of intent were the be-all and end-all for the Ecclesiologists.
St Michael and All Angels, Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire (designed 1853, built 1854-1856): south elevation of the church seen from the quadrangle separating it from the adjacent collegiate buildings.
The architecture is, indeed, sometimes a little too reliant on wilful detailing. Nairn’s criticism of his churches (taken from the entry on St Martin’s in Dorking of 1868-1877 in the ‘Surrey’ volume of The Buildings of England) for having ‘weak overall design and intriguing detail’, which ‘nags and grinds, working out what may well have been a 19th century psychological problem, because a lot of Woodyer’s work is neurotic’, is fair comment. But despite that, Woodyer’s aesthetic was every bit as uncompromising as that of his teacher. As also with Butterfield, it is a total aesthetic, permeating everything down to fine detail, even essentially utilitarian features as apparently insignificant in the overall effect as the candle stands in the nave at St Peter’s in Hascombe. He was lucky to have among his clientele numerous wealthy patrons who had the means to indulge his perfectionism and taste for visual extravagance. Woodyer formed a close working relationship with the stained glass artist John Hardman Powell (1827-1895), which seems to have begun in the mid-1850s, when they worked together on the church and college of St Michael, Tenbury Wells in Worcestershire. Powell was able satisfy Woodyer’s taste for the rich, jewel-like colours that are such an important component of his interiors. Woodyer had little sympathy with the incipient conservation movement and left the strong imprint of his architectural personality on his numerous restorations of medieval churches, having no qualms about replacing or improving on ancient fabric.
St Michael and All Angels, Tenbury Wells: view of the block of collegiate buildings from the quadrangle that separates it from the church, which provided living and teaching accommodation for the boys and warden. The cloister arm to the left with its pentice roof provides direct covered access from the south transept. Note the closely spaced dormer windows with acutely pitched roofs, a favourite Woodyer mannerism. After the college closed in 1985, the building became an international school, but this recently vacated the premises, which at the time of writing (July 2021) are empty and decaying. The featured photograph at the top of the page shows the collegiate buildings from the opposite side, with larger windows marking the location of the library to the right and the dining hall to the left.
St John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex
St John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex (Henry Woodyer, 1860): view from south eastSt John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex (Henry Woodyer, 1860): the chancel
Selective Woodyer may have been, but he clearly never wanted for commissions and his output was prolific. I have no intention of attempting to rival the excellent monograph mentioned above and can aim to do no more than give you a flavour of his work in this post. But through the descriptions of four churches – one a restoration, the remainder completely new buildings – that follow, I hope to be able to concretise some of the generalisations made above. The first is St John the Evangelist in Twinstead, just over the border from Sudbury in Essex, a county where Woodyer would subsequently be kept busy for most of the rest of his career. It replaced a predecessor that was ancient in origin but appears from surviving views to have incorporated a substantial amount of Georgian fabric. It had become dilapidated, and the replacement, erected in 1860, was intended to be a confident statement of revivified Christianity.
St John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex (Henry Woodyer, 1860): general view of the interior looking west from the chancelSt John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex (Henry Woodyer, 1860): the font
Built of brick and with elaborate constructional polychromy outside and within, this church comes closer in style to Butterfield than any other building in Woodyer’s career. But whereas Butterfield could make a virtue out of rustic simplicity, this building is frantically busy. Observe the tall, acutely pointed gable of the bell cote, the top-heavy buttresses with their tall upper offsets and inflated proportions of the windows – four lights to those in the nave, a miniature rose on the south side of the chancel. Yet despite their size, the interior is relatively dimly lit, a consequence of the extensive scheme of Hardman glass, which the scale of the building allows to be viewed at close range. Along with the brick polychromy and encaustic tiles by Minton and Poole, this imparts a dark richness. This building represents the first appearance of a striking device – the triple chancel arch, perhaps cribbed from a 13th century prototype at St Mary’s, Westwell in Kent. Woodyer used it again at St Nicholas, Mid Lavant in West Sussex (a restoration of 1871-1872) and St John the Evangelist, Woodley in Berkshire (a new church of 1871-1873). Note the ironwork filling the upper part of the three arches and also forming the support for the lifting mechanism for the font cover: this was supplied by Filmer and Mason of Guildford, a favoured collaborator.
St John the Evangelist, Twinstead, Essex (Henry Woodyer, 1860): Hardman glass in the window on the south side of the sanctuary
SS Peter & Paul, Foxearth, Essex
SS Peter & Paul, Foxearth, Essex: early 20th century view of the church from the east, showing Woodyer’s now destroyed spire of 1862.
Only a few miles to the north, also just on the south side of the county border with Suffolk, is Foxearth, Woodyer’s second job in Essex. In 1845, John Foster, an enthusiastic ritualist, became rector of the parish and he embarked on a lengthy scheme of refurnishing, remodelling and beautifying the medieval church, which occupied him for several decades. This seems to have begun in 1848 with the reconstruction of the south porch and by 1863 the church had been supplied with a rood screen, pulpit, new altar, lectern and reredos. The authorship of these items is not clear at present and may not have been Woodyer. Certainly, they bear no obvious hallmarks of his style. In 1861, Foster’s wife, Margaret, died and he and his brother paid for the construction the following year of a new west tower and spire to commemorate her, as recorded by an inscription in Gothic lettering running just below the string course dividing the ground floor and ringing chamber.
SS Peter & Paul, Foxearth, Essex: Woodyer’s tower of 1862 from south westSS Peter & Paul, Foxearth, Essex: the mosaic dado in the base of the west tower
Woodyer handled the elevations of the belfry stage in a most original manner, with five single-light openings to each face, almost equal in width to the sections of solid wall that separate them. There are three bands of what appears to be red sandstone running from side to side, the uppermost incorporating the cusped window heads. The tower was originally crowned by a vertiginous spire rising to 130ft (39.6m), which must have been at least equal to it in height. This could have been a risky ploy, but the imaginative treatment of the belfry openings gave the tower greater visual prominence, preventing it from being overwhelmed and keeping the two sections in balance. Blown down in 1942, the spire was not replaced. The interior of the tower is decorated with mosaics and the west window is filled with glass by Hardman, neither easily visible since the space is now filled by the Father Willis organ, installed in c. 1863 and painted in 1880-1884 with decoration in the style of Fra Angelico by one Henrietta Fricker.
SS Peter & Paul, Foxearth, Essex: detail of the south elevation of the tower, showing the clock face and part of the commemorative inscription.
St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey
St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): general exterior view from southSt Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): the north side of the apsidal sanctuary, showing three of the seven figures of Archangels bearing candlesticks. In the quatrefoils adorning the dado, angels are depicted bearing Old Testament types.
Woodyer executed more commissions in Surrey than in any other county and did some of his best work here. Though it is not his largest church, St Peter’s in Hascombe to the south of Godalming is one of his most celebrated and certainly one of his most sumptuous. Again, it represents the fruit of the long incumbency of an enthusiastic, deep-pocketed incumbent thoroughly imbued with the ideas promulgated by the Oxford Movement. Canon Vernon Musgrave (1831-1906) was born into a wealthy, landowning family and educated at Rugby School and Trinity College, Cambridge. As an undergraduate, he became friendly with William Dawes Freshfield (1831-1903) and Edwin Freshfield (1832-1918), who were prominent members of the Cambridge Camden Society and whose sister, Frances, he went on to marry.
St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): general view of the interior looking east – note the paired cusped rere-arches supported on slender shafts, which correspond to the twin lancets visible in the exterior shot.St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): candle-holder with sconce attached to a splay of the nave windows, with part of the decorative scheme added in the 1880s representing the Miraculous Draught of Fishes below.
In 1862, Musgrave was inducted as rector of Hascombe, taking charge of a building that was in a poor state of repair and lacking in capacity (whether this claim was in fact wishful thinking on his part is a moot point). Despite the considerable archaeological interest of a church that illustrations show to have incorporated Anglo-Saxon fabric, the decision was taken to demolish and rebuild. Work proceeded quickly and the new church was consecrated in 1864 – less than a year after the last service had been held in its predecessor, from which only a 15th century chancel screen was salvaged. Musgrave contributed generously towards the cost of construction and the later embellishment of the building, much of the remainder being borne by local landowners. It was perhaps the same Musgrave who, as part of the committee tasked with looking into the establishment of what became Cranleigh School, also helped Woodyer to secure the commission for that complex, which was under construction at exactly the same time.
St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): the stone pulpit dates from the time of construction, but was not polychromed until the scheme of decorative works carried out in 1883-1885.St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): the reredos was introduced at the time of construction, but the wall surface above was originally decorated with abstract geometrical patterning. The painted and gilt panels representing the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb were added in 1883-1888.
At first sight, the exterior appears restrained. The shingled western bell turret and the rubble coursing of Bargate stone both show deference to medieval traditions in the area and only one traceried window is to be seen. But on closer inspection surprising details emerge. The central lancet of the apse pierces a buttress. What appears to be a continuous drip moulding on the flank wall of a side chapel (originally a separate pew for the Lord of the Manor, now a Lady Chapel) in fact marks a change in the wall plane, and the geometry implies the presence of much larger openings than the four small, trefoil-headed lancets over which it runs. The lancets lighting the nave are abnormally narrow in relation to their height, yet the spacing is not quite right for them to read as pairs (the architectural logic for this curious arrangement become apparent only within). The ridge of the chancel roof terminates in a fiddly gablet over the apse, placed there seemingly without any architectural or constructional logic.
St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): the south side of the chancel, showing one of the seven figures of Archangels bearing candlesticks. In the quatrefoils adorning the dado on this side, angels are depicted bearing emblems of the New Testament. The squint formerly provided views of the high altar from the Lord of the Manor’s pew.St Peter’s, Hascombe, Surrey (Henry Woodyer, 1863-1864): the spiral stair giving access to the bell turret in the southwestern corner of the nave. To the right is part of the composition depicting Christ commanding the Apostles to go and teach to all nations, to the left above the main door is a list of former rectors of the parish.
If the exterior tantalises, the interior overwhelms. As completed, it was relatively plain, with the exception of the ingenious reredos. The lower section behind the altar consists of trefoil-headed openings in a slab of alabaster supported on red granite colonettes. But above it ascend tiers of trefoil-headed gilt and painted panels bearing representations of the Apostles and the Heavenly Host, rising up above the wall plate into the roof space and extending into the deep splays of the central window (where they depict the Instruments of the Passion) so that the stained glass window depicting the crucified Christ is made the centrepiece of the whole composition. It has more than a touch of the iconostasis of an Eastern Rite church. The motif of the trefoil is taken up by the braces of the roof trusses and thus extended around the semi-circle of the apse. The organ with its gilt and stencilled pipes appeared in 1869. The wall paintings were executed in stages between 1883 and 1887 by J.A. Pippet of Hardman’s. In the chancel, they extend all over the walls and roof structure. In the nave, they rise only as far as the dado (decorated with a pattern representing the Miraculous Draught of Fishes) with two exceptions: Christ in Glory flanked by the Twelve Apostles over the chancel arch, and Christ commanding the Apostles to go and teach all nations on part of the west wall. In 1898-1899, the same Pippet applied a richly coloured and gilt decorative scheme to the medieval chancel screen. The stained glass, all by Hardman apart from the eastern lancet mentioned above, was installed in increments between 1865 and 1892. A clergy vestry was added in 1873, but a scheme of 1884 by Woodyer to add a two-bay south aisle remained on paper.
St Michael & All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire
St Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): view from northwest. Note the lean-to vestry visible to the left.St Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): the lychgate
For this small village north of Hertford in the valley of the River Beane, Woodyer produced no less of a jewel box. This church forms part of an ambitious programme of architectural works initiated by Robert Smith, the owner of the Goldings Estate. In 1871 he engaged the remarkable George Devey (1820-1886) to design a replacement for the family’s Georgian seat, which eventually turned out to be the biggest country house that that architect built in his whole career. There was no church in the vicinity, the area falling within the ancient parish of Bengeo, and Smith decided to put up a chapel-of-ease to save local residents the trouble of walking the distance to attend services there (St Michael’s became a parish church in its own right only in 1909). This implies a modest edifice and certainly St Michael’s is modestly scaled, although it is effectively positioned on its site to gain extra presence from the fall of the ground from west to east. It is a two-cell church with a timber bellcote, rising to a small broach spire and clad in shingles, straddling the ridge of the nave roof at its west end – in short, a Victorian evocation of the type of medieval rural church so common in the southeast of England. But, as always with Woodyer, quirky details soon catch the eye: the number of traceried windows, relatively large for a humble building; the dormer breaking through the eaves of the chancel on the south side; the peculiarly emphatic buttresses; the vestry on the opposite side with its grotesquely narrow lancets and tiny dormers. Note also the ingenious lychgate with its hipped roof and Woodyer’s trademark acutely pitched dormers, a tour de force of his skill in packing maximum visual interest into minimum space.
St Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): general view looking eastSt Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): the font cover
The quirkiness continues inside with features such as the extraordinary cusped rere-arches of the nave windows. But the eye is inexorably drawn to the wonderful red, green and gold opus sectile work by Powell and Sons adorning the walls of the chancel. As at Hascombe, the reredos is visually locked into place by making its iconography an integral part of the wider composition: figures of angels, also executed in opus sectile, fill the spaces between its verde antico colonettes with alabaster capitals and bases. All this was part of the original design and executed at the time of construction, but the mosaics filling the upper part of the chancel walls – figures of angels on a dark blue background surrounded by stylised plant motifs – were added in stages between 1901 and 1912, and also executed by Powell and Sons. The sanctuary is paved with dazzlingly patterned tilework by Minton. As if all that were not already enough, the chancel windows and west windows of the nave are filled with superb quality stained glass produced by Morris and Co to the designs of the firm’s leading artists and installed at the time of construction. The scheme was later extended to the south side of the nave; the windows on the north side did not appear until the 20th century and are the work of other hands. Waterford is the only instance of Morris and Co glass being commissioned for a Woodyer church and the choice may well have been that of the client rather than the architect. Amid such colour and splendour, the fittings (in fact all contemporary with the building) rather pale into insignificance, but the fine pyramidal font cover is worth a special look.
St Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): the north side of the sanctuarySt Michael and All Angels, Waterford, Hertfordshire (Henry Woodyer, 1871-1872): the east window by Morris & Co installed at the time of construction – the central panel depicting the Nativity was designed by Edward Burne-Jones, the angels by William Morris.
Conclusion
Woodyer is known only to have had four pupils, none of whom achieved particular note. His practice was apparently dissolved on his death (no personal papers and little professional correspondence survives) and, in any case, his idiom looked distinctly old-fashioned by the 1890s. Perhaps it was the most fitting outcome for an architect who walked by himself. A wealthy, privileged man, he had made a career largely out of indulging the pre-occupations of his even more wealthy, privileged peers, providing them with intricate, expensive toys. It was a world that no doubt seemed at the time as though it would last forever, but its days were numbered. After World War I, many of the big landed estates would be sold off and broken up, and the mansions turned over to institutional use. Goldings, for instance, became a Barnado’s Home. As the 20th century wore on, Anglo-Catholic triumphalism faded and the religious houses that Woodyer designed have in two cases been closed and converted to residential accommodation.
St Mary, Stratford St Mary, Suffolk: finial to one of the uprights of the wrought iron railings and gates surrounding the main north porch St Mary, Stratford St Mary, Suffolk: tracery of Woodyer’s invention in the west elevation of the north porch
In the 21st century, we are no strangers to extreme affluence and conspicuous consumption, but in a largely secular society the notion of a wealthy individual directing means into a display of piety seems very foreign. The tradition is not entirely dead – witness, for example, Craig Hamilton’s splendid neo-classical Roman Catholic chapels at Williamstrip Park in Gloucestershire, Culham in Oxfordshire and at an unnamed site in the north of England, all built during the last decade. But, exquisite though they are, they feel more like a retreat from the modern world than the product of religious fervour convinced that, in town or country, the truths revealed by the beauty of holiness will redeem the body and soul of all who behold them. They exist for initiates, not to proselytise.
The former Convent of All Hallows in Ditchingham, south Norfolk was first established in 1854 as a penitentiary Anglican convent for fallen women known as the House of Mercy, just like the Convent at Clewer, illustrated above. Soon afterwards it moved to purpose-built accommodation erected to Woodyer’s design shown here, viewed from the southeast. The ground plan is a Latin cross, and the composition and massing are masterfully handled. Though the budget was limited and economies forced Woodyer to simplify his design in execution (construction was a protracted affair, beginning in 1856 and not finishing until 1864), he successfully avoided the dullness and grimness that dog so many Victorian religious houses. The window with reticulated tracery – subdivided by a latticework grid composed of straight rather than ogee lines – marks the location of the first-floor chapel. The community seems to have outgrown this and a larger, free-standing chapel was subsequently erected a short distance away in the grounds.View from southwest of the former House of Mercy at Ditchingham – note the Woodyer trademark of the rows of acutely pointed dormers. Though not quite as extreme as those at St Michael’s College in Tenbury Wells, they encapsulate his wilfulness, which is carried into perversity with the extraordinary asymmetrical oriel in the angle of the two wings. The nuns left the complex at Ditchingham for new accommodation in 2018 and the future of the complex, none of which is currently statutorily listed, is not altogether clear.
The more beauty there is, the greater the redemptive power. It sounds like a simplistic equation, and it may be unfair to impute such a motive to Woodyer’s clients. All the same, as I pondered in my post on John Middleton’s church in Llangynllo, to do excess well requires a great deal more than a taste for expensive materials and piling on ornament, and what is true of that church is also true of Hascombe or Waterford. Given Woodyer’s own sartorial preferences, the comparison perhaps invites itself too readily, but there is an element of dandification in his treatment of Gothic, which conveys sophistication and luxury every bit as effectively as lavish display. Just as a common garment can be made visually arresting through, say, the use of an unconventional cut, a boldly coloured lining or bright stitching to the buttonholes, so a familiar architectural language is subjected to subtle transformations, underscored with bolder treatment of the detailing, that tease and intrigue. I see no need to draw any further conclusions, beyond pointing out that Woodyer’s work, like that of so many other architects featured in this blog, shows yet again just how dramatically the Victorian age broadened and deepened the range of expression of Gothic.
St Michael and All Angels, Tenbury Wells: stained glass in the west window by Hardman of 1856 depicting the Last Judgment, part of the firm’s superlative scheme of glazing for this building supplied at the time of its construction.